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Advice on removing/replacing center brace


Juiceman

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I've seen Isaac use a powder coated steel frame to remove his braces...

I thought about trying to Remove the Large glass brace and replace with 3-4 small braces spread throughout the tank.

Then maybe making an acrylic Euro Brace that would fit around the tank.... IDK

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I just got a welder that works with stainless steel to make me a trim around the top of the tank with 2 braces across. My tank didn't come with a center glass brace but resealing a 215-gallon warranted some additional bracing to help me sleep at night. I think total with labor and materials was about $200 for that thing. I found the guy on Craigslist but he's no longer there.

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I just got a welder that works with stainless steel to make me a trim around the top of the tank with 2 braces across. My tank didn't come with a center glass brace but resealing a 215-gallon warranted some additional bracing to help me sleep at night. I think total with labor and materials was about $200 for that thing. I found the guy on Craigslist but he's no longer there.

I just surfed your build looking for pictures. didn't find any.

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No canopy, you're on your own sir. It does rust if I leave water on it and I believe some of the joints he welded have rust on them. In hindsight, I would have powder coated it or at least rhinolined or plastic dipped it.

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if you wanna come look at mine, drop me a line. if you want me to MAKE yours... we can talk smile.png

I saw yours on the your thread. It's hard to tell but are the beams that go accross steel also? So you're completely blocking light from those particular areas?

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No canopy, you're on your own sir. It does rust if I leave water on it and I believe some of the joints he welded have rust on them. In hindsight, I would have powder coated it or at least rhinolined or plastic dipped it.

i looked at various coating options.... went w/ powdercoat. google coating comparisons on metal posts/fencing on coastal installs.

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No canopy, you're on your own sir. It does rust if I leave water on it and I believe some of the joints he welded have rust on them. In hindsight, I would have powder coated it or at least rhinolined or plastic dipped it.

i looked at various coating options.... went w/ powdercoat. google coating comparisons on metal posts/fencing on coastal installs.

OK, so the powder coat is the black coat?

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if you wanna come look at mine, drop me a line. if you want me to MAKE yours... we can talk smile.png

I saw yours on the your thread. It's hard to tell but are the beams that go accross steel also? So you're completely blocking light from those particular areas?

yes and no, however I could have drilled holes in the cross supports to negate some of it. With enough lighting, the shadow is indistinguishable. you can also use smaller roundbar, just more of them. its all a balance of form vs function. look at it this way, that glass is blocking more direct lighting than you realize. Put some paper on it, and turn the lights on, you'll see the areas affected.

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No canopy, you're on your own sir. It does rust if I leave water on it and I believe some of the joints he welded have rust on them. In hindsight, I would have powder coated it or at least rhinolined or plastic dipped it.

i looked at various coating options.... went w/ powdercoat. google coating comparisons on metal posts/fencing on coastal installs.

OK, so the powder coat is the black coat?

color doesnt matter really. I went with matte black on the outside rims, and [edit: glossy] white on the crossbeams. this allows the light to reflect and it not to heat up as much. i debated light blue like the sky, but in the end, woulda been pointless.

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if you wanna come look at mine, drop me a line. if you want me to MAKE yours... we can talk smile.png

I saw yours on the your thread. It's hard to tell but are the beams that go accross steel also? So you're completely blocking light from those particular areas?

yes and no, however I could have drilled holes in the cross supports to negate some of it. With enough lighting, the shadow is indistinguishable. you can also use smaller roundbar, just more of them. its all a balance of form vs function. look at it this way, that glass is blocking more direct lighting than you realize. Put some paper on it, and turn the lights on, you'll see the areas affected.

Being that my lighting is T-5 I'm thinking it could be more noticeable than the natural shadowing that comes from LED or Halide.

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I've seen Isaac use a powder coated steel frame to remove his braces...

OFFTOPIC: someone referred to me by name on a thread i wasnt on AND w/o a link and stuff.. coool! Sorry, that was the first time, im done now :)

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if you wanna come look at mine, drop me a line. if you want me to MAKE yours... we can talk smile.png

I saw yours on the your thread. It's hard to tell but are the beams that go accross steel also? So you're completely blocking light from those particular areas?

yes and no, however I could have drilled holes in the cross supports to negate some of it. With enough lighting, the shadow is indistinguishable. you can also use smaller roundbar, just more of them. its all a balance of form vs function. look at it this way, that glass is blocking more direct lighting than you realize. Put some paper on it, and turn the lights on, you'll see the areas affected.

Being that my lighting is T-5 I'm thinking it could be more noticeable than the natural shadowing that comes from LED or Halide.

actually, thats the opposite. t5 is more flood, less direct. LED/halide would show defined shadows, t5/cfl would have a softer shadow due to the "flooding" and reflective properties of the glass. See BRS week 18-22 vids. (i promise, i dont get paid for referrign to them, i really should ask tho)

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