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The Maroon Lagoon V2.0


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7 hours ago, Gig 'em @ NDstructible said:

The frag tank is only 50 gallons, the other 15 gallons of volume comes from the sump and filtration. The dimensions are nice though, 48x24x10, bought it from RCA. I love the dimensions, can't wait to get it wet!

That is a perfect size really.  Mine has the 48x24 footprint and I love it!

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2 minutes ago, Gig 'em @ NDstructible said:

What do you have yours plumbed into? Your DT or does it just have a sump underneath?

It's standalone, it has its own sump, calcium reactor, etc

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Just now, jolt said:

It's standalone, it has its own sump, calcium reactor, etc

I figured. What size is your sump? I have a 20 gallon I used as my sump on my previous QT tank. I'm hoping that will be enough to handle 2 tanks feeding into it. If not I also have a 30 long I'm considering using as the sump.

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It's an elite aquatics 33" sump that holds about 25 gallons.  All my live rock is in the refugium section of the sump.  That section is about 1/3 of the total sump volume, since there are no filter socks taking up space.

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My dimensions are 48x24x16 and with the trigger 30(30x12x15) I wish it was a little wider. You can definitely get by with a 20, no problem though. I copied Jolts approach with an ATS(Imitation is the best form of flattery Jim!) and it feels a little cramped with everything in there.

 

Do you plan to put a lot of equipment on it or run a fugue? If so, It might be worth going with the 30 long. I would have gone with it from the get-go if I wasn’t trying cram the ATO setup under the stand too.

 

If you don’t plan on putting a lot in it - the standard 20 is simple, and you could pull it out/move it around easily.

 

 

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My dimensions are 48x24x16 and with the trigger 30(30x12x15) I wish it was a little wider. You can definitely get by with a 20, no problem though. I copied Jolts approach with an ATS(Imitation is the best form of flattery Jim!) and it feels a little cramped with everything in there.
 
Do you plan to put a lot of equipment on it or run a fugue? If so, It might be worth going with the 30 long. I would have gone with it from the get-go if I wasn’t trying cram the ATO setup under the stand too.
 
If you don’t plan on putting a lot in it - the standard 20 is simple, and you could pull it out/move it around easily.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
 

I'll probably only stick a skimmer in there. I have a CaRX that will be on the outside of the sump and maybe a carbon/GFO reactor that I can stick in the sump or mount to the stand. It's not the space I'm worried about, but the flow rate through the sump and the volume of water it can absorb when power goes out.
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I'll probably only stick a skimmer in there. I have a CaRX that will be on the outside of the sump and maybe a carbon/GFO reactor that I can stick in the sump or mount to the stand. It's not the space I'm worried about, but the flow rate through the sump and the volume of water it can absorb when power goes out.


Running 10x turnover with a makeshift bean overflow with no issues. Depending on how your drains are setup though - The concern is real for a chance of spill over. I run my last return section at a Lower level specifically because of this(better a burnt out pump then salty floors for me by a long shot) The few extra gallons it dumps in before the syphon breaks have been a worry every time I’m gone for an extended period of time.




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  • 3 weeks later...

I feel like I haven't posted a FTS in a while, and I have finally replaced the funky light I had to throw up on the right side of my tank when my Orphek stopped working properly. Wow, what a difference that makes!!! Corals are starting to look really good now that I have lowered my phosphates for over a month.
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Red dragon is looking more red again now that I've eliminated the greenish lights on the right
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RCA the Hotness mille is looking hot as usual
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It's been a week full of lighting projects. First I removed my hood and tore out the lights and revamped it. So far I'm pleased with the result, I definitely have more control over lighting intensity and coloration throughout the day.
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My current setup running everything at 100% looks the closest to a sunlit reef I have ever seen. It's not quite in line with the current fad of all actinics all the time, but I like the natural look and I'm excited to see the results on coral health and growth.
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I also tore apart my Orphek Atlantik and replaced the V1 guts with V4 diodes and board. I can now control this light better too, it will be going over a species specific tank in the future.
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Phew! That was a lot of light projects for one week [emoji28]

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Unfortunately I have been dealing with one of those phantom coral death issues that just can't seem to be solved. I've checked my water parameters, everything is normal and all other corals look fine. I've changed out over 50% of my water over the past week and it hasn't slowed the death of this table. I've been running UV for weeks and I ran ozone on the tank yesterday and didn't seem to help. I'm going to do one final water change today and if it dies, it dies. Sometimes the complexity of these animals can't be explained at the hobbyist level. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear it!
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Take a dremel or saw to it?


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The thing is it has died away from the pedestal of the table, which means it would just be a weird shelf piece that wouldn't fit anywhere well in my tank. Honestly I would rather have it as one solid piece if it dies as a commemorative show piece for my desk [emoji23]

I would prefer it to survive and recover though, just doesn't seem likely.
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