Ich

[Mikesilverado8888]

So anyone ever mange ich with just food like dr g. I don't want do the QT thing and I don't want raise the temperature 82 route. All I been doing is feeding dr g and trying to keep them happy and low stress but still the Royal and clown look bad

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vincent-Thai]

if you don't have any corals , do hypo salinity

[Mikesilverado8888]

if you don't have any corals , do hypo salinity

I got corals

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Reburn]

Mike,

I try to be nice on the forums but I have watched you time and time again with this ich.

Your attempt to control it doesn't seem to be working. While some people can control ich. Your not one of them.

You have 2 options.

1). Remove all corals and do hyposalinity.

2). Remove fish to a QT and let your tank be fallow for 76 days.

You have live animals in your care. It's your responsibility to make sure they get the care they need.

[nuxx]

Yup...

Ich will always be in your system once it has been introduced and has hosts.

If you're not going to qt, then you just have to live with ich or more than likely worse coming into your system.

Kind of annoys me when people who don't qt complain about ich.

I currently have 4 running systems right now just for qt. 3 with fish (40, 2 x 20) and one for inverts and coral (150).

Every time I get a new fish I know it won't be in the display for around 2 months. 3 months for coral and inverts. I get none of the instant gratification that non-quaratiners get, and just have to tend to another tank. Plus many species are very delicate and are tough to get through qt.

On the other hand, the display has been up for 2 years and even with stress between tangs and anthias, I haven't seen any ich spots or flashing.

The only fish that I've lost have been from aggression not disease.

That being said...

If my tank does get ich, I'll probably just stop stocking fish or add one or two final fish and focus on coral and inverts.

I'd do this for the following reasons:

- Ich is rumored to burn out after around a year with no new fish hosts or newly introduced strains. Might be due to the long term single strain fish getting immune to the parasite or the parasite basically inbreeding itself out.

- No new fish (not immune to old strain or bringing a new strain) will not allow ich to flair up again.

- Continued fishless qt for 72+ days of coral and inverts will ensure no new ich strain comes into the system.

Remember with ich, this parasite is made to function in the open ocean, not a small glass box. Meaning it's created to find one host in miles of open water. Do you really think you can beat it with multiple hosts just inches away?