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Rapidled retrofit for oceanic biocube 29 help


luckystrike

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I received the solderless oceanic biocube 29 dimmable retrofit kit with stormx controller for Christmas. Im Very excited to be getting rid of the stock lighting and did a lot of research before asking for it. I was torn between stevesled kit and this one, but landed on this one.

Last night I pulled everything out of the box to get started, and ended up packing it all back up due to feeling a bit overwhelmed. I get the basic concept of wiring it, but I've come to some dead ends on placement of some of the components. The online instructions are a bit vague as they use an aquapod hood for the pictures to go along with the instructions, but then caption saying this layout will not work for the biocube.

Has anyone on here installed this kit? I'd love to bounce some thoughts off you if so.

I'm also trying to wrap my head around multiple channels/drivers. I have 2 drivers that came with the kit, but I realize I'm going to need to order the case for the controller, and figured I might as well add 2 more drivers since I have the capacity for it. That would add more channels, but I'm not sure how much benefit there is to that since it is a small tank.

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yes. i retroed one in years back for a buddy on 14g bio. as long as led heatsink or whatever u use to cool leds is fit inside a light chamber, drivers, controllers r in a seperate box.....

note: u must keep the original fans in working order with led kits, that ll help with water evaperation traps inside...

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c923396afa313d4a0eeabd05da4f9d9f.jpg

This board is what is throwing me off. It seems like there's room in between the fans that it could fit in, but it seems kind of exposed and rather close to the heat sink.. So then I was thinking it should be housed with this:

fb0168e1a637e63f5474dd2a58502329.jpg

Not sure what that component is called, but I'm thinking those two should have a separate box outside the tank. Does that sound correct?

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Those boxes with "LDD" on top are the drivers and they are going to be going onto the controller board (they should have the same number of pins). You're going to be using 2 of 4 of the potential channels. The large silver box is the power supply, which will also hook up to your controller board.

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