ReefHaus 75 Gallon Build

[ReefHaus]

I moved to Austin in August, and have been interested in getting back into the hobby. I dove in with this 75 gallon build, which I started last month, and is now finally approaching the moment of truth... (I think?)

STAND:

The first task was to decide on the display size and stand. My old tank was a 55 gallon, and I wanted to increase the water volume of my new tank a bit, without having too much larger of an overall footprint. I went with the 75, because its essentially the same as the 55, but with 6 more inches in the back.

After looking at buying stands, I realized that I could probably just build a stand myself with better quality and the color I wanted (white) for much less than the retail stands cost. After looking at a few designs people had used successfully on reefcentral, and then speaking with my LFS, I decided to go with a simple 3/4" plywood box design.

I was referred to a couple of guys who run a lumber shop off of 183 and 1431 in Cedar Park - right around the corner from where I live. They're in the business of manufacturing door frames for homebuilders and as a by-product of their design, they end up with stacks of 20" x 96" scrap plywood that they sell for $10 a piece - perfect for my 48" x 20" x 32" plywood box!

I should add, that this is not your typical Home-Depot / Lowes plywood variety - it's white birch plywood, extremely well constructed stuff! After cutting it up (5 pieces was all I needed for the whole design, which included a matching canopy), the total bill came in at $64.00 (including very accurate cuts).

I put a small shelf inside for electronics and after reading bean-animals page on outlet-strips, I mounted a commercial grade tripp-lite power strip inside ($35 on amazon for the 16-outlet version)

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/outlet-strips.aspx

I drilled 1/4 holes towards the right side of the stand where the chiller will go. The ledge beneath it holds a small stand (also built out of the same plywood) that elevates the chiller enough to put a vornado-style fan pointed straight up underneath it providing further ventilation. It also serves to place the output of the chiller exactly where I wanted it - over the return pump section of the sump.

[victoly]

Are you married to having a chiller? I used to be a chiller guy as well, but i run an open top 29 gallon with a 250w metal halide above it and keep it cool with a small fan that kicks on via apex temperature control.

[FarmerTy]

Welcome to Austin and welcome to the club! The tank stand looks great!

Sent via Tapatalk

[ReefHaus]

There are "others" who reside with me who do not agree on the temperature of the house during the summer. In order to "keep-the-peace" I elected to get a chiller with a set-point at 78 degrees, instead of getting into a debate over why the house should kept at a constant cool temperature during the hot summer months (especially when the house is vacant while we are all on vacation for several weeks at time over summer months!)

I have not attempted the math, but I believe its going to be more economical in the long run to cool the aquarium, than it would be to cool the house...?

Also, the two 250 watt metal halide bulbs, and 200 watts of in-sump pumps are contributing to the overall equation.

[ReefHaus]

CANOPY/LIGHTING

I originally toyed with the idea of a rimless cube with a really cool LED fixture. They're awesome loooking!!! One of my favorite builds of all time continues to be Paul Brun's 427 Cube from back-in-the-day (2008):

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-12/totm/index.php

That build changed my perspective on what was possible. Like pmrogers current build at Austin's Triple-S Fish Ranch is doing for me right now (speechless!!!):

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2292029

I instead chose a design philosophy that leans more towards time-tested approaches to reef-keeping, rather than cutting edge technology with visually stunning results (keep those rimless cube builds coming though - I love them!)

This meant incorporating simple design elements focused exclusively on growing coral successfully, without so much concern for a brilliant showcase. This philosophy definitely impacted my decision to go with Metal Halide lights housed in a traditional canopy design.

Some of the thoughts swirling through my head before making this decision:

1- Availability=Cost: The common 75 Gallon display is a pretty ubiquitous tank. This build design was partially conceived from the continuous stream of people I've had over to the house who inevitably ask me about starting a coral reef tank of their own. I want this tank to represent a simple path to growing coral that most people can follow. Going with a standard 75 means that when I go to look up answers to common questions like "how many watts should my heater be", chances are the example given is for a 75 gallon tank, or at least close to one. LEDs and rimless cubes are super cool, but still pretty expensive up front. With an eye towards readily available supplies that are pretty easy to source second-hand, these cool new tanks are simply incompatible with my design goals.

2- Metal Halide: After researching the topic and deliberating ad-nauseam over lighting, I came to my own conclusion on this. My bottom line: metal halides grow coral. LEDs may be able to do many things well (including looking cool and running cool - so probably no chiller required?). Perhaps they grow coral really well too? They may also cost less to run over time (kinda like hybrid engines?) But my goal is to grow coral, and halides are proven to do this well. Our local friend Nick Klase's presentation at MACNA 2014 is priceless.

3-Ease of Mounting & Tank Access: Mounting lights and accessing the tank are incredibly simple with a basic canopy design. No need for fancy mounting hardware or curious methods of getting the lights out of the way to access the tank.

4- Backwards compatibility: Whatever form the next generation LED technology takes, chances are it'll mount into this canopy (though it'll never look like it was engineered by aliens, nor hover over the water column as though it were seemingly suspended by thin air)

5- Invisible Water line: It may be a stretch, but I like the aesthetics of how the water line in the tank is covered by the canopy's edging. Over time, I've observed that many rimless tanks seem to develop a distinctive pattern around the water-line. Especially after several years of running. A canopy sits below the water line, which may add to the aesthetic appeal of the display, especially one that runs for many years.

Based on all of the above I decided on a DIY canopy with a pair of 250-watt Halides and a single blue LED strip. Simple, Effective, Repeatable. Bauhaus?

[ReefHaus]

OVERFLOWS, PLUMBING & SUMP

SUMP BACKSTORY

I'd followed Marc Levenson at www.melevsreef.com in Ft. Worth for many years online, as his business developed. Living out on the east coast it was cost-prohibitive to ship a big sump from Texas. I was fortunate indeed to to find one of his original Model F sumps on craigslist in 2007. Back in the day, a good sump was a rare commodity, and I immediately came to appreciate the the simplicity of the melev model F. I'd always thought that if I ever moved to Texas, I'd have Marc build a custom sump for me. Shortly after moving to Austin, I went looking for Local Fish Stores with quality livestock and met Shane at Fishy Business. I was immediately impressed with the quality of his livestock and was also pleased to learn that he builds a very well-crafted sump with an incredibly simple and highly effective three stage design, at a fair price.

OVERFLOWS: While Calflow coast-to-coast designs today are very popular, Shane's overflows work independently, mounted as three separate boxes that are nearly flush to the backwall. In addition to the incredibly small footprint this design affords, it also has the advantage of being made with more narrowly spaced teeth that are slightly taller than many other boxes I've seen. The benefit is that absolutely nothing will ever go over these overflows that might block one of the down tubes. Another feature of both the overflow boxes and first-stage bubble diffuser is they're made of ABS plastic. This means better long-term wear and tear under the continuously flowing salt water conditions as compared to many after-market overflow boxes made with acrylic-welded seams that are more prone to failure over long enough time periods. I understand that Shane may offer to drill and mount these style overflow boxes to just about any tank for a fair price.

PLUMBING & SUMP

FIRST STAGE BUBBLE TRAP: Three Spa-Flex hoses run from the overflow boxes to the sump's first stage, a custom-designed bubble diffuser. This is a key design-element to Shane's sumps that make them one-of-a-kind. Like the overflows, the first section of the sump is also made of ABS. The resulting unique bubble-trap design provides a near-silent operation that doesn't require additional media like rubble or bio-balls.

SECOND STAGE SKIMMER: Water flows bubble-free and silently into the second stage, which offers an immense 19" x 12 1/2" skimmer footprint (I opted for an ASM GS-1x with an 8 1/2" x 10" footprint to pair with the system). This leaves plenty of room in the sump for more stuff, which I probably don't need but want anyways (like an ATO and chiller pump...mere luxuries that stand in opposition to the system's simple design philosophy)

THIRD STAGE RETURN: Lastly, water flows through a sponge filter held by egg-crate before hitting the return pump. I selected a classic Mag 12 for my return lines. The Mag 12 is big, runs hot, kinda loud, and is extraordinarily simple and totally ubiquitous (i.e. awesome!!!). I don't care about heat with a chiller on the system, and I really don't need a fancy ultra-quiet highly efficient return pump. Heat is actually plus in my system because even in Texas my home can run 68 degrees in winter - when the Halides go out, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need a little heat to bump the tank back over 76 degrees. The return lines are plumbed with clear 1" tubing back to the display with a siphon-break drilled at the water line. There's no rigid PVC in the whole system. Everything terminates in either a 90 or simple barb-fitting.

As much as I love the uber-simplicity of my tried and true Melev's Reef Model F, I think the Fishy Business sump might possibly be an even be simpler design. And for anyone considering thier dream sump/fuge designs, another great presentation from MACNA 2014 that has certainly opened up my perspectives on this subject was the debate between Julian Sprung and Jake Adams. I know this one has already made the rounds on you tube, but if you haven't watched this one yet... grab the popcorn. Bon Appettite, and to be continued...

[jolt]

Nice start. I'll be following ....

[victoly]

FWIW, I keep my house at 72-74 and evap fans work great for me. If your project manager requires higher temps, it still might work. You won't know until you get your system fully running. So it's great that you're prepared for a chiller.

Second thing i noticed is your reflectors. I'd keep an eye our for different MH reflectors. Those parabolics are wasting a TON of light out of the sides of the canopy instead of putting it in your tank.

[ReefHaus]

RO/DI STATION

I selected the laundry room to locate the RO/DI station. I like laundry rooms for this purpose - the only problem is the display tank sits about 75' away from it. Minor challenge. I had originally ordered my first RO/DI system in 2007 from www.thefilterguys.biz. It’s great to see people who love what they do survive in this cutthroat business! I really appreciated their customer service and prompt response to my questions the first time I used them, so it was a no-brainer to order again from these guys. I’m pleased to report that their commitment to customer service remains unchanged. They advised me of a relatively new development in water treatment, since the time I had first purchased my RODI system from them, and they suggested that I confirm with my local municipality whether chloramine is added to our water here.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/chloramine_filters.htm

I went to The City Cedar Park Municipal Website, and found the following statement from the Water Treatment Facility:

http://www.cedarparktexas.gov/index.aspx?page=633

Under “Treatment Process”, the website clearly states:

“The final step in the treatment process is disinfection. The plant feeds free chlorine through the treatment units and is then converted to chloramine before being pumped into the distribution system.”

No problem, they sent me a new second stage filter to replace the stock model. Water pressure into the RO membrane is stable at 65 PSI, and TDS reads 0.00 - mission accomplished! RO/DI water comes out of the filter system into a 15 gallon water storage tank that I found at Tank Depot off 620 (they normally don’t stock this item, but someone had returned it, so I didn't have to pay for shipping). From here, I ran a line to the attic and over to where the aquarium tank is, so that fresh RODI water is pumped into the 10 gallon ATO reservoir that I ordered from Melev’s Reef:

http://www.melevsreef.com/catalog/ato-reservoir

I asked Marc Levenson to custom make the reservoir so it would fit behind the sump. At 5” x 30 ½” x 20”, the ATO reservoir holds around 10 gallons, which should cover several weeks of evaporation. This is one of two unnecessary luxuries I afforded myself in what would otherwise be an extremely simple 75 gallon setup (the other being the chiller, which wouldn’t normally be necessary in most setups). The ATO is the last piece that’ll go into the tank stand before I fresh-water test everything next week.

I set a Mag 5 in the storage tank for the job of pushing fresh water up to the attic and over to the tank (about a 75’ run). The Mag 5 is hot, noisy, reliable, easy and inexpensive to maintain – now I just need to find a women who shares the same attributes and I’ll have found nirvana!

[ReefHaus]

FWIW, I keep my house at 72-74 and evap fans work great for me. If your project manager requires higher temps, it still might work. You won't know until you get your system fully running. So it's great that you're prepared for a chiller.

Second thing i noticed is your reflectors. I'd keep an eye our for different MH reflectors. Those parabolics are wasting a TON of light out of the sides of the canopy instead of putting it in your tank.

I agree with your initial chiller assessment. My project manager likes 78 during summer holiday time when house is vacant. It's a nice-to-have, versus a must-have at this stage. I'll post updates as I know more how the real-life parameters are playing out. Won't truly know the impact until next August...

I also share concerns about reflector efficiency. Mainly went with parabolic due to a self-imposed 4" height restriction resulting from poor execution of the DIY canopy. I only realized this after I had already built the canopy with only 8" of headroom. For now, the distance between the bottom of the bulb and the water surface is only 4" (virtually ensuring the need for a chiller). Opinions regarding "Ideal" height for MH bulbs vary, depending on who you ask, but most would agree 8" - 10" is more common. Many will say much further is even better. There are some out there who have placed them as close as 3" with good results. My plan B is to cut holes in the top of the canopy and mount a pair of Lumen-Max style reflectors, but I'm curious to see what results I get out of the current configuration first.

Thanks for your comments!

[FarmerTy]

I've had both the parabolic and the lumenarc style reflectors. Using a par meter, it was a night and day difference though parabolic should work for now until you upgrade.

Sent via Tapatalk

[victoly]

RO/DI STATION

I selected the laundry room to locate the RO/DI station. I like laundry rooms for this purpose - the only problem is the display tank sits about 75' away from it. Minor challenge. I had originally ordered my first RO/DI system in 2007 from www.thefilterguys.biz. It’s great to see people who love what they do survive in this cutthroat business! I really appreciated their customer service and prompt response to my questions the first time I used them, so it was a no-brainer to order again from these guys. I’m pleased to report that their commitment to customer service remains unchanged. They advised me of a relatively new development in water treatment, since the time I had first purchased my RODI system from them, and they suggested that I confirm with my local municipality whether chloramine is added to our water here.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/chloramine_filters.htm

I went to The City Cedar Park Municipal Website, and found the following statement from the Water Treatment Facility:

http://www.cedarparktexas.gov/index.aspx?page=633

Under “Treatment Process”, the website clearly states:

“The final step in the treatment process is disinfection. The plant feeds free chlorine through the treatment units and is then converted to chloramine before being pumped into the distribution system.”

No problem, they sent me a new second stage filter to replace the stock model. Water pressure into the RO membrane is stable at 65 PSI, and TDS reads 0.00 - mission accomplished! RO/DI water comes out of the filter system into a 15 gallon water storage tank that I found at Tank Depot off 620 (they normally don’t stock this item, but someone had returned it, so I didn't have to pay for shipping). From here, I ran a line to the attic and over to where the aquarium tank is, so that fresh RODI water is pumped into the 10 gallon ATO reservoir that I ordered from Melev’s Reef:

http://www.melevsreef.com/catalog/ato-reservoir

I asked Marc Levenson to custom make the reservoir so it would fit behind the sump. At 5” x 30 ½” x 20”, the ATO reservoir holds around 10 gallons, which should cover several weeks of evaporation. This is one of two unnecessary luxuries I afforded myself in what would otherwise be an extremely simple 75 gallon setup (the other being the chiller, which wouldn’t normally be necessary in most setups). The ATO is the last piece that’ll go into the tank stand before I fresh-water test everything next week.

I set a Mag 5 in the storage tank for the job of pushing fresh water up to the attic and over to the tank (about a 75’ run). The Mag 5 is hot, noisy, reliable, easy and inexpensive to maintain – now I just need to find a women who shares the same attributes and I’ll have found nirvana!

DANGER

[ReefHaus]

CHILLER

I went with a ½ HP Penguin Chiller:

http://penguinchillers.com/

I built a shelf with a fan underneath it for supplemental ventilation - so I could keep it enclosed in the tank stand.

I paired a Mag 3 to it, generating the recommended 400 gph flow rate.

The pump takes water from the skimmer section and returns it to the return section of the sump.

[ReefHaus]

First casualty of my 75 Gallon build: DIY Canopy 1.0

Marc twisted my arm and I went with a pair of LumenBright Mini Pendant's.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1937494

Now... how to mount them?

Canopy 2.0

Right now the old canopy is on my garage floor with the lid off.

I'm meditating about it and will return from the mountain-top later this evening with heavenly insights.

Lotus position.

Clouds parting.

Ohm.... Ohm... Ohm...

Focus on breathing.

More later...

[FarmerTy]

Don't forget to burn incense!

[ReefHaus]

Wow - a truly spiritual experience (I'm glad that part's over!)

This is the vision I received from the mountain this evening.

1-Divide the top in half.

2-Elevate 3"

3-Cut Out Space for LumenBright Mini (16 1/8 " Octagon)

The hinges will go on either side of the Canopy instead of in back of it.

If all goes well, the Bulbs will be 12" from the surface, producing the desired "spread" of light reflected from the Lumenbrights over the two 22" x 16.5" spaces formed over the 75 by the Eurobracing (as shown in the second picture below).

The best part is that the design was actually inspired by God.

In fact, "God told me to do it" is what I'm telling people right now.

Can I get a Hallelujah? The Devil is a Liar! Amen.

[+bigsby]

Man, that must have been a really high mountain...

Glad to see you have it figured out. Your build is coming along very nicely.

[Reburn]

First off welcome it's looking good.

I don't think that was incense you were burning. Have you been to Colorado lately? Gotta be careful with those brownies.

Lol

[jolt]

The hinges will go on either side of the Canopy instead of in back of it.Having a hard time visualizing this part. Will your canopy open like Moses parting the Red Sea?

[ReefHaus]

The hinges will go on either side of the Canopy instead of in back of it.Having a hard time visualizing this part. Will your canopy open like Moses parting the Red Sea?

Yes!!! - Finally, someone acknowledges the depth of what I endeavor towards in my true calling!

I'm still working out the finer details of the telepathic linkage, but the basic mechanics are illustrated in the images below.

For some reason when I raise my arms up in the air and pray with conviction to God, the leaves just sit inanimately mocking me.

Its puzzling, because in my vision, that's exactly how they worked.

There was also a chorus of angels that accompanied the light when it came on - that part does not seem to working either...

Back to the drawing board!

[ReefHaus]

First off welcome it's looking good.

I don't think that was incense you were burning. Have you been to Colorado lately? Gotta be careful with those brownies.

Lol

I did attend the University of Colorado at Boulder (Go Buff's!)

The best four (or five?) years of my life!

Details are hazy.

[FarmerTy]

Have you tried using the Force as an alternative?

Sent via Tapatalk

[ReefHaus]

Man, that must have been a really high mountain...

Glad to see you have it figured out. Your build is coming along very nicely.

Mountain? What mountain? I don't remember seeing any mountains?

Sometimes when I'm standing so close to a thing that is so magnificent, so beautiful, so utterly transformative and life affirming, it's heard to grasp the true perspective of what I've actually accomplished here.

My God, its full of stars!

Thank you for your humble acknowledgement of my truth, I think I might have actually "figured it out" this time.

Are we there yet? I seem to have left something behind...

[victoly]

[jolt]

Man, that must have been a really high mountain...

Glad to see you have it figured out. Your build is coming along very nicely.

Mountain? What mountain? I don't remember seeing any mountains?

This likely explains why your canopy does not part for you. Moses first had to climb the mountain .... I know, I know : I'm sorry Dave, I can't do that ...