Sascha D. Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Like many others I have decided to switch over to LEDs to light my reef. I've been around long enough to see many different lighting options enter the hobby over the years. When I first started, PC was the way to go. Soon VHO (Very HIgh Output Fluorescents) and HO (High Output) T-5's were on the market, followed by Metal Halide. Each one has been proven to sustain corals, although some better than others. Each one also has their own set of pros and cons, including size, price, energy usage, heat and maintenance. I'm sure LEDs have their own set of pros and cons and, as reefkeepers, all we can hope for is that the pros outweigh the cons. LEDs are a hot topic in the reefing community. The lack of information can be frustrating and first hand experience can be hard to come by. I've decided to follow in the footsteps of many others and document a little bit about my new fixtures. If only one person finds this information useful then it will be a success. I will be updating this thread over the next several weeks to show the progression of the project. I hope to show coral growth, as well as, variations in color, size and health. The product that I purchased was the OceanRevive Arctic-S026. This LED fixture features 48 x 3w LEDs and two cooling fans in a sleek black housing. There are two switchboards, each controlling 24 LEDs. The first one controls the white, red, green and purple. The second controls the shades of blue. I chose this fixture based on this thread I found while doing a web search, as well as, recommendations from Lenver and JPowel on ARC. I actually thought these were made in the USA. I was disappointed to see the China sticker. I bought them on sale 20% off with free shipping, but I could have gotten it a bit cheaper on Ebay. BFE...It does exist! The packaging was good. Each fixture came in a solid box with styrofoam padding all around. The actual fixture is a nice flat black. Each of the knobs worked, though they are not labeled. The fans are high quality and run as silently as can be. They can't be heard even with the canopy open. I tested each light on the kitchen counter before trying them on the tank. The lights were so bright that I couldn't look into them directly. Even taking the pictures was very hard! 25% Power 50% Power 100% Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mako Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Looking good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 OceanRevive Arctic-S026 General Specifications Power Rating - 144w Power Consumption - 120w LED Count: 48 x 3w Dimensions: 16 x 10 x 1.6" Gross Weight: 9.9lb Life Span: >50,000 hours or 13 years at 10 hours per day LED Spectrum per fixture Cool White 12,000K - 8 Cool White 10,000K - 6 Red 660nm - 2 Blue 470nm - 8 Green 520nm - 2 Royal Blue 450nm - 16 Violet 420nm - 6 One reason I chose this fixture over some of the cheaper models sold on Ebay was because I liked the color spectrum. This fixture has more white light and does not contain any yellow light in the 6,500K spectrum. From other reports I have read, this is supposed to produce less algae on the glass. This fixture also has more LEDs in the 450nm spectrum versus the 470nm spectrum, giving the tank less of a Smurf Blue look. Another thing that I liked is that there is 3x more Violet colored LEDs in this fixture than the cheaper models. Some studies have suggest that UV aids in the development of corals and it is said that UV appears to us at Violet. Another feature of this fixture that isn't often talked about is the placement of the LEDs themselves. I got some great feedback from JPowell regarding the LED placement of other fixtures versus the placement in the S026's. I trust his extensive experience with different LED fixtures and found it very helpful. The LEDs themselves are spaced further apart, which is supposed to spread the light and reduce the spotlight like effect of other fixtures. My tank is 48x24x31" and I really wanted to spread the light as much as possible so that I can keep corals at anywhere I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Okay. I spent all weekend playing with the lights. I have to say they are fantastic! LEDs are unmistakably different than T-5s. The light is more focused, penetrates deeper and casts some very interesting shadows. There is also an effect that some refer to as the "disco effect", where the surface movement refracts the light from the LEDs and causes a strobe like effect. It is very similar to the way sunlight dances along the bottom of the ocean, for those who have been diving. I have heard of some corals needing adjustment time when switching from other lighting types to LED lighting. The greatest and most common instances of bleaching corals that I have seen have come from switching from MH to LEDs. I happen to like my baby acros, so I've decided to play it safe and start with a lower setting and ramp up over the course of a few weeks. Tank Before: 6x54w HO T-5 Base Adjustment: LEDs 30% white 30% blue First Adjustment: LEDs 50% white 50% blue Second Adjustment: LEDs 50% white 70% blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Nice fixture Sascha, there are lots to choose from out there. I am not a fan of active cooling since the fans was the first to go on my T5 fixture a while back. But just my opnion. Does it tell you who makes the LED chip in the spec?. 450nm spectrum is good choice. I've had good success on my sps growth in this spectrum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR Renteria Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thx for doing the review... It is really helpful, and look forward to seeing updates... I too am wanting to switch to LED, but there are some many out there, and the prices vary... Have you heard anything about the new one that is supposed to be coming out, the Arctic T247? Also, where did you get your light from? I currently have a 20 G long tank set up, but I am wanting to go to 29G... When I do, I know I will need a better lighting system... Right now, I have a $100 Odyssea 30" 4*24 T5, that I bought from Top Dog Sellers in Houston, about 3 weeks ago... After seeing your post, I wish I would have waited, for another $100 I could have gotten the same fixture you have... I know I need to replace the bulbs, because they are not that great, so that is gonna set me back about $100... Due to the height increase, I was planning to upgrade them when I got my 29G going here in the next couple of months.... But now I am excited to see your progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thx for doing the review... It is really helpful, and look forward to seeing updates... I too am wanting to switch to LED, but there are some many out there, and the prices vary... Have you heard anything about the new one that is supposed to be coming out, the Arctic T247? Also, where did you get your light from? I currently have a 20 G long tank set up, but I am wanting to go to 29G... When I do, I know I will need a better lighting system... Right now, I have a $100 Odyssea 30" 4*24 T5, that I bought from Top Dog Sellers in Houston, about 3 weeks ago... After seeing your post, I wish I would have waited, for another $100 I could have gotten the same fixture you have... I know I need to replace the bulbs, because they are not that great, so that is gonna set me back about $100... Due to the height increase, I was planning to upgrade them when I got my 29G going here in the next couple of months.... But now I am excited to see your progress... I feel the same way. I added new T-5's in September and now I'm already replacing them. I wish I had done LED in the first place. I hope I don't come to regret it, but that is the way this hobby goes sometimes. Everything we do today is a collection of years of innovation and trial and error. Heck I remember running 96 watts on a 200g tank just 12 years ago. I put a link in the first post to the fixture that I bought. They were on sale when I purchased them so I paid 20% less than full price. On the T-5 bulbs, check out Drs. Foster and Smith. I was paying $10 per 48" bulb. Free shipping if you spend more than $49. The best bulbs I purchased were the True Lumens brand. Stay away from Zoo Med bulbs. They are awful and go out fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Nice fixture Sascha, there are lots to choose from out there. I am not a fan of active cooling since the fans was the first to go on my T5 fixture a while back. But just my opnion. Does it tell you who makes the LED chip in the spec?. 450nm spectrum is good choice. I've had good success on my sps growth in this spectrum. To tell you the truth, I didn't look into the chip manufacturer. I checked the website and it doesn't say. One thing that I was surprised to notice is that they are so much cooler than other LEDs that I've seen. These fixtures have two active fans and a 0.4" heat sink behind each LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 One major change I have noticed has to do with the median temperature of the tank. All temps were observed using a digital thermometer. Under T-5's, I ran a median temp of 83 degrees with a low of 80 during the night and 85 during the day. The high temp of 85 degrees was observed in the summer of 2013. Since the change to LEDs I have been running a median temp of 73 degrees. The highest temp observed was 74.4 and the lowest is 72.4. I was fully aware that the temperature would lower, but I am concerned about the temp change being so drastic. The habitable range of Acropora is 72-82 degrees and I'm at the bottom of that range already. I know it's winter but I keep my house between 70-75 year round and if the temp drops to the air temp then I may have a serious problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenver Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 You don't have a heater? Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 You don't have a heater? Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk I had a heater but it shorted out and turned on 24/7. By the time I noticed the tank was almost 90 degrees. I never replaced it. My tank was plenty warm that I didn't need one. The last few days were about as cold as it gets around here and my tank was still 74 last night. I doubt I will need a heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Hello tank controller lol. I was reading your other thread and saw that you do not use a heater. You can do so much with a controller and having that piece of mind that your heater will come on when needed is great, not to mention will go off if need be. Your tank looks great by the way very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Hello tank controller lol. I was reading your other thread and saw that you do not use a heater. You can do so much with a controller and having that piece of mind that your heater will come on when needed is great, not to mention will go off if need be. Your tank looks great by the way very nice. Thank you. The tank has come a long way, but I recognize the need for future equipment and automation. I have thought about a controller, but it's expensive and I have to research exactly what my needs are, will be, and which model I would need to buy. My tank currently does not use any reactors or dosing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR Renteria Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hey Sasha, just wondering how you were doing with the light...? I found one for $140 and was really interested in it, but wanted to see how things were going for you... I was planning on using it on a 29G tank, 30" X 12" X 18".... I know the fixture is 16", but how far does it spread out.... Is it one plug or two, for timers? I was also leaning towards using 2 Par38 bulbs, one is a coral compulsion in the 10-12K range & the other is a no name 14K Bulb... Thx once again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hey Sasha, just wondering how you were doing with the light...? I found one for $140 and was really interested in it, but wanted to see how things were going for you... I was planning on using it on a 29G tank, 30" X 12" X 18".... I know the fixture is 16", but how far does it spread out.... Is it one plug or two, for timers? I was also leaning towards using 2 Par38 bulbs, one is a coral compulsion in the 10-12K range & the other is a no name 14K Bulb... Thx once again So far everything has done well under the new lights. I haven't seen any reduction in polyps, the Zoanthids and Palythoas don't appear to be stretching for more light, and none of the SPS is turning white. So far my energy bill is estimated to be $44 cheaper than the previous month, but I can't be sure how much of that is due to the lighting change until more data is collected. The color is very crisp and vibrant. I am happy with the quality of the LEDs. The fans run silently and are as cool as if they weren't running at all. I have them in a closed canopy and I cannot detect any heat coming from them whatsoever. There are two plugs, one for each set of 24 LEDs and they have 3-pronged plugs. I only have two plugs on my digital timer, so I connected each unit to an extension cord and then connected them to timers. There is no delay when starting or turning off the fixtures. As of yet, I have not used the hanging kits that come with the package, but Lenver did and he said they were great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Week 1 Update: The tank is doing great. I haven't noticed any color loss, STN'ing or polyps reaching for the light. Just the opposite, the corals on the bottom of the tank are doing fantastic. The temp has become stable at 74-76 degrees without a heater. To illustrate some differences with the lights, I will be posting before and after pics from time to time. None of the below pictures were edited in any way. Straight from my point-and-shoot Cannon. FTS Hollywood Stunner 3/3/14 Hollywood Stunner 3/9/14 Branching Hammer 3/3/14 Branching Hammer 3/9/14 Acropora of some kind 3/3/14 Same Acropora 3/9/14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR Renteria Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hey Sascha, So, I've gotten my lights, but still haven't figure out how to mount them... I'm having a hard time getting the wife to budge...lol So, I showed her this fixture, but she doesn't like the bulkiness... I told her it is either something similar to this, or I mount brackets on the wall, which she doesnt want...lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/310887707608?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I know you mentioned you havent used the hangers, so how do you have your lights mounted? How high from the tank do you have the lights? Was wondering about your timers for the lights.... Are you turning them on at the same time? Or do you have different time settings for each, one on longer than the other? How long do you turn them on?? Thx once again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 So, I've gotten my lights, but still haven't figure out how to mount them... I'm having a hard time getting the wife to budge...lol So, I showed her this fixture, but she doesn't like the bulkiness... I told her it is either something similar to this, or I mount brackets on the wall, which she doesnt want...lol Hey JR, Congrats on your lights! After two weeks I still love mine. I did mount them but haven't posted any pictures yet. I'll get them up tonight when I get home. I also had an interesting situation. When we bought the tank we got a matching stand and canopy because my wife doesn't like the industrial look of lights hanging from the ceiling either. We still wanted to hang the lights in the canopy where they would be out of sight, but had to make sure they wouldn't cook the tank like other LED brands. These lights are super cool. I mean almost no detectable heat at all while they are running, even in my closed canopy! I know you mentioned you havent used the hangers, so how do you have your lights mounted? How high from the tank do you have the lights? I mounted the lights 6" from the water, which is as high as I could go and still close the canopy lid. My canopy only opens from the top. If it opened from the sides or the front then I would have put them on the roof of the canopy. I didn't use the hangers that they came with because I didn't have the room and I also wanted the versitility to move them as I wanted. To accomplish this, I installed rails into the canopy. Was wondering about your timers for the lights.... Are you turning them on at the same time? Or do you have different time settings for each, one on longer than the other? How long do you turn them on?? I don't ramp up or ramp down my lights because I don't have a controller. One may be in my future if I decide to go with a calcium reactor, but right now all I would use it for is pH and temp monitoring. Currently I use a Coralife Digital Power Center. I like it because it's inexpensive, has day and night timers and incorporates a surge protector. I decided to do a 30 day transition for my corals to adjust from T-5 to LED. During this time period, I turn my lights on at 10am and they run until 9pm at 75% blue 50% white, which gives a nice 14k look. I don't want a blue Smurf tank, but I would like the fluorescents to pop. I also don't want a super purple My Little Pony tank, so I'm opting for an inbetween look. After the initial 30 days, I may increase my photoperiod to 12 hours and/or increase the intensity of the lights depending on the PAR reading I get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR Renteria Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Cool, Thx Sascha, can't wait to see the pics... So you turn them both on & off at the same time.... 6", wow, I understand what your saying, with height requirement, but is that too close with salt creep & intensity?? But you gradually increased to the 75/50 ratio right? How long was/is that process gonna take you? I was planning on getting that mounting rack from ebay, & shoot for about 12-15" above the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 My lights come on every day at 9am. Each fixture is set at 75% blue and 50% white. They don't ramp up to that. I mean they don't start at a lower setting in the morning and gradually increase over time. I actually started at that power from day 1 because it was suggest to me by Jpowell who also has this fixture. I do have a light requirement so I can't go higher than 6". I run 35x circulation in the display and 6x through the sump. Even with that turbulent water I haven't noticed any water splashing up on the lights. I also don't get any salt creep around the rim of the tank. The pictures I posted a few posts back are before and afters for the lights. To day I don't have any corals bleaching, or receeding. Everything is happy and fully extended so I haven't see anything wrong with mounting the lights 6" from the top of the water. I have a Purple Meridana 12" from the lights and it's doing great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 You're welcome to stop by if you want to check it out. I live on the border of Round Rock and Pflugerville, about a mile from Niko's Reef. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR Renteria Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Wow... Thx... Yeah, I would definitely like to take you up on that offer... Maybe this weekend?? If you have time, I work on Saturdays, but I can be pretty flexible, or I am off on Sundays..... If you can't this weekend, Just let me know when/what your schedule is.... I'll PM you my number... THX once again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Here's how I hung the lights. Objectives Securely mount the lights Ability to easily move them out of the way when I work in the tank Ability to adjust the positioning Barriers The lights had to be fully enclosed in the canopy. I gave myself the challenge of staying under $20. So here's what I did. After toying around with a bunch of ideas, I decided to use a rail system to mount the lights. I went to Home Depot, in the shelving section, and bought Rubbermaid upright tracks. The kind that are mounted to the walls for wire shelving. I purchased two short rails to mount perpendicular to the front pane of glass and two long rails to run parallel. I then mounted eggcrate to said rails using zip ties I got at the dollar store. The fixtures slide back and forth on the rails and I have the ability to move the fixture left and right to customize the lighting requirements of the corals. Total cost $17.73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Can't tell if the egg crate is holding the weight of the lights or not but you might want to have a safety catch for the lights. Ageing and heat makes that egg crate really brittle where it just crumbles in my hand. Looks like you might have the edges of the lights resting on the bars. If so, ignore me bud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 You're right, the edges of the lights are resting on the bars and the bars span from track to track. It might be a good idea to put a cross brace or another bar in the middle of the two for safety. What kind of safety catch would you install? I thought the eggcrate would be a good idea to help diffuse the light from the LEDs and give the tank a more uniform look. It worked, but I don't want to compromise safety either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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