ceastman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 The 4th stage is the DI resin. These are all unused filters about 8 years old - except the RO membrane. The TDS was higher when I first started running water through it, it could be I need to let it run another hour or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckyuv Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I had to let mine run about 30 min before it got zero. The water here in lago isn't the cleanest tap tho and don't have much pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Maybe so, but definitely keep an eye on it. You input water is fairly high TDS, but you should be zero at the spigot with new filters if everything is wired up correctly. Do you have a flow restrictor rated for whatever GPD your unit is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 I do have a flow restrictor, let me see if I can figure out what it is rated for. Good point. I just installed a 75 GPD RO membrane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 The only markings I can see on the flow restrictor say "FLOW 600 Pat. 177903" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 ah I found this conversion chart: at http://www.appliedmembranes.com/flow.htm so I have the wrong flow restrictor for the RO membrane I purchased. Off to find the correct flow restrictor, might as well get a psi gauge while I am at it. Model No. Restrictor Flow (mL per Minute) Calibrated for Membrane (GPD) (at 15% Recovery) H-R2050QC 100 5 H-R2051QC 150 10 H-R2052QC 200 16 H-R2061QC 250 18 H-R2062QC 300 24 H-R2063QC 350 30 Model No. Restrictor Flow (mL per Minute) Calibrated for Membrane (GPD) (at 15% Recovery) H-R2064QC 420 36 H-R2068QC 600 50 H-R2074QC 650 55 H-R2071QC 750 65 H-R2069QC 850 75 H-R1000QC 1000 100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Any local fish stores carry a flow restrictor for a 75 GPD RO membrane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Six bags of Caribsea special grade sand have been added to the main tank: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Any local fish stores carry a flow restrictor for a 75 GPD RO membrane? The only places that have them around town would be LFS, and it's iffy if they do. amazon prime can get them to you in two days, 4 bucks for overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Refugium - I was going to have some mud in it along with the macro, I was just concerned the little critters would get chewed up by the return pumps. I have an access hole between the rooms that house the main tank and the rest of the equipment, so the pod farm was going to have nice safe return to the main tank through some rodi tubing or something a bit bigger. I spoke with Nick over at BML and was going to go with the following fixtures: (2) 72" 12K - one 90 degree and the other 75 degree (1) 72" 14K - 75 degree (1) 72" super actinic - 90 degree I was going to place them like so: back of tank 12k 75 degree super actinic 12k 90 degree 14k 75 degree front of tank so the two middle fixtures would cover more of the tank and the outer two would help keep shadows down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Your tank will be very blue with that mixture. I count 24' of lamps for 240g tank. I know that is a BML recommendation. I find it too high for my needs. While it is true that you can use dimmers and reduce the intensity, I am more frugal and prefer to evaluate light in stages. For my mixed garden 75G tank, I use 6' of BML lamps. PAR values at surface are 500. PAR at 6" is 150. PAR value on bottom at top of substrate is 85. This is more than I need for my mixed garden. Do you want easy to maintain or do you strive for SPS? With respect to pods going thru the pumps, the fish don't care, except it makes it easier to catch the shredded pods. Nutritional value is the same. Some pods survive the impeller housing of the pump and make it alive into the display tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Never mind. I withdraw my question. but since i can't just delete my post....errrr...hi how's it going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 I was going to do the lights in stages (cost and the light needs of the inhabitants), the 12K 90 degree will be the first fixture with a manual dimmer. After that will be the Apex to start controlling things and then more lights as I get more inhabitants. Any concerns of pods growing in the sump and not getting to the return pump's intakes (guess they would have to be strong swimmers to avoid the intakes)? I have refugium return going into the sump currently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Never mind. I withdraw my question. but since i can't just delete my post....errrr...hi how's it going? No particular reason other than going by Nick at BML's recommendation. I was planning on keeping things flexible so I could move fixtures around and have it so I could angle them a bit. it will be interesting attaching them to my canopy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Never mind. I withdraw my question. but since i can't just delete my post....errrr...hi how's it going? No particular reason other than going by Nick at BML's recommendation. I was planning on keeping things flexible so I could move fixtures around and have it so I could angle them a bit. it will be interesting attaching them to my canopy. lol. sorry, i guess i withdrew at an inappropriate time. i hadn't noticed that one was super acintic, i thought they were 3x 12K and 1x 14K. seeing the acentic it looks like just a lighting spectra thing. of course, going with expert advice is always a good idea, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 and am I correct in assuming that I shouldn't add my initial water, salt, live sand and live rock until I get my first set of lights? The tank is in a brightly lit room (except when we are in a winter storm warning...) I am anxious to get things going but I need to temper my anxiousness with sound reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 You do not need lights to cycle the tank with bacteria. In fact, too much light too soon in the cycle fuels nuisance micro algae. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woods Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 and am I correct in assuming that I shouldn't add my initial water, salt, live sand and live rock until I get my first set of lights? The tank is in a brightly lit room (except when we are in a winter storm warning...) I am anxious to get things going but I need to temper my anxiousness with sound reason Adding these items prior to any tank lights should be fine... I had that setup for about 6-8 weeks before adding my first DIY LED fixture and had no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 at what point does the reef clean up crew get introduced? during the first cycle phase when stuff is dying off from the live rock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woods Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 I had a few in during the initial portion even when I didn't have lights, but once I started adding the lights is when I gradually began the addition of CuC members... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 yeah I thought about this more and it probably makes more sense to add them in gradually to a new tank as opposed to just getting a bunch at one time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Finished adding the water from River City Aquatics and then turned all the pumps on, welcome to the dust storm. Shouldn't take long for the dust to settle out of the sand and things to clear up. Then the salt gets added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 What cleans the dust from the sand? Filter socks, mechanical filter ,carbon or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woods Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 If you have filter socks, I would use those, otherwise it will find dead spots in your DT and Sump to settle... The fllter socks will help it process faster and you can then remove the debris from the tank completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceastman Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Ok I think I need to get better filter socks, I got a cheap pair from pet smart... Time to hit a LFS at lunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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