jaggedfire Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 I am fighting what I believe a bryopsis outbreak in my 25 (~5 months) and now in the 135...(1 month). I have successfully brought the 25 up to 1620 mg. over a 4-5 day period and the stuff seems to be contracting...almost disintegrating. So I started the big tank on the Tech M but wanted to know your success stories. One fallout I think I have had is loosing my blue ridge coral....the only 'hard coral' I had left. Thanks, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Tech-M works, as does other Mg supplements that contain both chloride and sodium Mg compounds. The bryopsis most likely will come back when using Mg to treat it in my experience. There's a ton of strains so you may have a much less aggressive one then I did, but I had to get my Mg up to about 2000ppm and it took nearly 3 months for a really bad outbreak. It came back about 3 months later even though I continued dosing it at least a month past the point where there was nothing visible in the tank. On a large tank it may be cost prohibitive if you intend on performing water changes with any frequency. It typically turns pale or blue'ish and then starts melting. Problem is that if a single cell survives, it can repopulate the entire tank. H2O2 is the best chemical method I've found. It's cheap but you need to have the ability to remove rocks from the tank or drain a tank enough to spray the rocks with H2O2 and let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes before refilling A foxface is the best and only reliable inhabitant that I've seen but it still probably depends on the fish. Lettuce nudi's supposedly work, some turbo snails supposedly work, both are touch and go from what I've seen and read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaggedfire Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Thanks Jestep. This strain hasent taken to the rock so much as the glass and any plastic in the tank, powerheads and eggcrate are the worst. I do have an 18w UV on a fowler that it seems to have completely disappeared on. Looks to be time to move it over to the big tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 are you sure its not GHA? GHA goes bananas about the 30 day mark and continues through the first stages of maturity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaggedfire Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 I do have some GHA on the other side of the tank that looks more full and greener. The suspected bryopsis is attached in a central point with ~15-20 feathery legs swaying in the current. There are many of these attached to the glass. I dont guess I could be certain unless I looked under a 'scope, but the GHA has a softer fur like feel whereas the bryopsis more hairy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 yeah if its feather-like its bryopsis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 I am in week 3 of my bryopsis treatment in my 125-gallon tank with Tech M. Within the first week almost all of it disintegrated. I had raised my Mg from 1400 to 1880 ppm. I feel like there is somewhat of a rebound of the bryopsis so I am doing a water change and them blasting them again with Tech M. I will keep updating in my tank build thread. http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/25278-jeepertys-non-build-build-thread/page-3 -Ty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Water changes really are not going to affect the Bryopsis. It will help to reduce some trates and phates which should be part of your attack plan. Getting rid of Bryopsis is best accomplished thru a multi prong attack. Utilize the Kent's Mg @ > 1800 for as long as it takes, water cahnges will cause you to go thru more suppliment. Also remove by hand as much as you can but don't let loose in tank. Lower trates and Phates thru exportation IE utilizing a RX and utilizing a bacteria supplimentation to compete w/ the algae for nutirents. This can be done w/ an additive such as start smart for saltwater or thru carbon dosing. Carbon dosing requires agressive skimming. It may take months and the tech M should not be stopped for 60 days after all trace of bryopsis is gone. I did permantly get rid of mine this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Hi neonreefer, Thanks for the advice. The water change is really to lower my Mg to blast them again with the shock of increasing the Mg again using the Tech M. Most user feedback points to an impurity in the Tech M and I wanted to lower the overall Mg via water change and blast them with more Tech M and the magical impurity that was knocking it out in the first place. I have been carbon dosing for 3 years now with great success, first with vodka and for the last 2 years with biopellets. It is great at removing nitrates but not as efficient with PO4. GFO takes care of the rest of the PO4, so much so that my SPS became faded and my LPS began to decline. Even in that ULN environment, the bryopsis still grew slowly. I have no doubt the Tech M treatment will work as it was working great already. I just did a quick water change (mainly cause I could use the discarded water for my QT since I bought some new fish) and use that as an excuse to lower Mg to blast it with more Tech M as some say it is the shock mainly kills it. All hearsay and educated guesses at best but I thought I would give it a try to blast them again. Did you do anything else with your bryopsis treatment regiment other than Tech M and the carbon dosing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 No that was all but you are right by the shock effect. I found this to work best as well, although what originally got me into trouble was low Mg. I fell to the 1100's before I knew it. Had added a lot of LPS in a small tank and it sucked it out in a relitively short period of time. Prior to that water changes had been keeping it up so i did not test routinely. Shock and Awe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Good to know the shock and awe did it! I haven't seen anything in the last week so I am hoping the last shock and awe did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaggedfire Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Did anyone notice any problems with corals during the mg treatment? I think I lost my blue ridge coral due to raising either too fast or bc of the high levels. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Only thing I noticed was fading on some of my montis and some of my zoas released their zoozanthallae. I had a colony or two of zoas melt but otherwise no other ill effects. I have a predominantly SPS tank with some zoas and very few LPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I think it's probably hard to pinpoint the actual relation to Mg levels, because as the bryopsis dies off you can get some significant NO3 and PO4 levels. I did have some loses when I did mine, but I was fighting some ridiculous nutrient levels as the algae died off. At the same time my coraline and sps growth went through the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaggedfire Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Time for an update....the algae is melting away fairly quickly. The tips turn yellowish-brown and the stuff recedes or dies. Using the Magfloat in a well lit spot 5 days ago is showing no return of the algae. The largest of the bunches (nickel in diameter) is now down to less than a dime size. Have kept Mg stable at 1600-1620. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I think it's probably hard to pinpoint the actual relation to Mg levels, because as the bryopsis dies off you can get some significant NO3 and PO4 levels. I did have some loses when I did mine, but I was fighting some ridiculous nutrient levels as the algae died off. At the same time my coraline and sps growth went through the roof. +1 and this is why I would suggest pulling and removing by hand all you can reach. Others make the same mistake when treating cyano w/ some type of cleaner. They have significant increases in NO3 and PO4 from the huge die off which causes some corals to die and ends up triggering a "crash event" which they then blame on the tratment. Instead it was the exucution of treatment that was incorrect. I had a mixed reef tank and only changes I saw was some coloration changes which seemed more vibrant no color bleaching of zoozanthallae loss. Andre' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MINI Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I kept dosing my 20g for two weeks after things looked gone, also held off water changes for the entire duration of treatment. I just manually removed any algae I could get to and checked in on every corak every chance I got. The byropsis never came back for months. Until I took in corals from a buddy's tank that was going through a crash, that stuff spreads like wildfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaggedfire Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Another update. Two days ago the mg levels tested at 1480. So I have brought that back up to 1600 over the past couple days. I did notice the bryopsis was not dying back as fast during this period. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 So this thread is terrifying. Good luck to you, sir! Does "dipping" new fish and corals help prevent this? I've never done it but maybe I should learn how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Nope. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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