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Recommended low profile mag cleaner


kmacc05

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Looking for a decently priced low profile mag cleaner that works well. Mag floats seem to be over priced and my searches are only bringing up the algae free ones the BRS has. Any good ones you all might recommend?

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make your own, 2 CSM magnets, some velcro, some foam sheets from Michaels, some foam safe CA glue, and whatever do-dad you want to be visible on the outside of the tank. :) The two little fishies nano cleaner is pretty cool and cheap.

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I looked into making one. I always like to look for diy threads before purchasing anything, but I didn't find very much. Most people just say buy one lol. Are there any rules to sealing magnets to ensure no damage to the livestock? I noticed on one of my Tunze powerheads, the mags are covered and on one of the other Tunze heads, the mags are open and visible.

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Yes sir, that's really the only reason I got it. Mike had one he was showing off at a meeting and I think convinced everyone there to get one lol it for sure takes it off tho. My tank is glass though I have no experience with it on acrylic

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when it comes to magnets, neodymium and ceramic magnets are the best. For my use/purposes, (frag racks, mag scraper) I use neodymium. You can check out CMS Magnetics ( http://www.cmsmagnetics.com/ ), they're out of dallas and their delivery is fast. You can get epoxy coated magnets from them direct, in any size. I've made my own replica nano mag fox, and full size. I even made one recently out of a larger rounded cube magnet so that I could get my corners.

I use PlastiDip in the can, not in the spray, and use a small piece of coat hanger, or metal rod, bend the tip at a 90, and use it to lower the magnet into the dip. Dip half of the magnet at a time. Let each magnet dry overnight before dipping the other half. Just a tip, if you go this route, I highly suggest using a small plastic cup cut in half to hold some dipping solution. The can is metal.. so when you start to lower the magnet in, it has to be dead center, or it'll slam into the side of the can. Otherwise, use the half cup method, or a cola bottle cap for more efficiency. Once the magnets are dry, you can do anything you want to them. Warning, keep them away from ATO controllers and not TOO terribly close to the ATO float sensors.

Here's a good pictoral/walk through of the process.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/rubbercoat.asp

I highly suggest using a bottle cap instead of doing it straight in the can. Plastidip can also be thinned with thinner or demethylated spirits if you want a thinner application.

On a foam sheet (michaels in the stationary isle) measure out squares that are big enough to fit your magnets 2d dimensions (ie, the face dimensions, circle, square, etc..)

You'll need at least 3 of these if not 4 (I use 4 to 5, it depends on the thickness of your magnets, and your foam)

Trace your magnets shape in the center of your foam squares

Cut the shape out in the center of the squares, and then proceed to cut all the squares out of the sheet.

Cut two additional squares out with no shapes in the center. These will be your end cap.

Using FOAM SAFE CA Glue (Hobbytown, Michaels, Hobbylobby, etc..) or Epoxy, apply a thin layer across your base layer (one of the foam squares with no shape cut out)

Layer your squares with shapes, one atop the other, all the while applying a layer of glue between each. The smell of CA is pretty hard core, especially when interacting with foam, it may be wise to open a window or work outside.

After youve layered the squares with shapes, apply a bit of glue to one face side of your magnet, and lay it down in the center of your layered foam masterpiece. Apply another layer of glue to the opposite side face.

Apply glue to the end cap around the inner edges and in the center. Lay the end cap on top of the stack to complete the enclosure. Press down firmly to ensure the bond is complete. You can use an xacto or electric bread knife to tidy up the foam if you want at this point.

Take the hook side of a self adhesive velcro strip (the hard plastic side), glue this side to one side of your structure.

Take a second magnet, and glue the loop (the fibrous fluffy side) to it. The magnet with the fluff will be on the dry side, and the one with the enclosure on the wetside. The enclosure is not 100% necessary, but it does ensure the mag floats. I.e. you can just glue the velcro to the rubber coated magnets, and be done with it.

Tips:

I try and cut my mag cleaners to the size of the velcro I have on hand. This way the shape is clean, and there are zero seams.

Try and stick to shapes with right angles, as round ones are a bit tricky to use inthe corners.

For a bowfront tank or rounded corners, try using a rod shaped neodymium magnet, wrapped in velcro hook.

Use a larger magnet, or some kind of shape (maybe your favorite monopoly piece?) on the dry side. This acts as a grip to move the magnet around rapidly.

If youre using a really beefy magnet, you'll want to fill the gaps in the foam enclosure with some stronger foam, like styrofoam or pool-noodle foam.

The dry side is your canvas to play with. Try printing out some fun stuff on the printer, or famiy photos, or something cool, and afixing it to the dry side magnet. You can do the same with the wet side, but you'll need to coat the image properly, or order a PC Badge

http://www.directron.com/labels.html

WARNING!

Neodymium magnets are SUPER strong. Dangerously strong. Be VERY cautious when placing these in/around your tank. They slam together so quickly, its not unlikely it would break your glass or crack your acrylic. Be especially mindful of these magnets around your heaters,

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