Drift Monkey Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I've had a hard time getting a clear answer on this and I've already used it to seal up my sump baffles anyway so... The guy at the hardware store told me this and the Window Seal stuff were the same stuff in different tubes so I compared them. Neither of the labels said anything about mold inhibitors, bio seal, or petroleum distillates, but did say 100% Silicone. Nothing about a mold guarantee on either tube...so I just grabbed the red tube randomly. This is the tube in question: http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicone-I-kitchen-and-bath.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 From what I understand (limited), if it doesn't fight mold, mildew, etc. and is listed as 100% silicone is safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 From what I understand (limited), if it doesn't fight mold, mildew, etc. and is listed as 100% silicone is safe. That's what I understand as well. Just trying to see if anyone has used this stuff successfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I think where the confusion comes from is the following. In the past, Silicone 1 was the one to use. At the same time, it was labeled as Window/Door. Silicone 2 was Bath/Kitchen and was not OK because it had mildewcide in it. Now, GE jacked it all up and stuck kitchen/bath in there to confuse everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 I wonder if kitchen and bath costs more than window the same way lady bic razors inexplicably cost more than men's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 I think where the confusion comes from is the following. In the past, Silicone 1 was the one to use. At the same time, it was labeled as Window/Door. Silicone 2 was Bath/Kitchen and was not OK because it had mildewcide in it. Now, GE jacked it all up and stuck kitchen/bath in there to confuse everyone. So that leaves me...where exactly? I wonder if kitchen and bath costs more than window the same way lady bic razors inexplicably cost more than men's. Haha...strangely enough, they're both the same price...confirmed online as well. GE I W&D vs GE I K&B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Best I can tell you're safe. It says silicone I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 You're good to go. I've used this in the past and current tanks/sumps. Be sure to let it dry/cure completely! It needs more than 24 hours to fully cure. I usually give it about 48 hours if not a week. But be 100% that it doesn't say "MOLD/MILDEW RESISTANT" on the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 So that leaves me...where exactly? Still confused? I think you should go get the DAP 100% silicone instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicone-II-kitchen-and-bath.php < -- this is the bad tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 So that leaves me...where exactly? Still confused? I think you should go get the DAP 100% silicone instead. Not confused, just inquiring really. Eh, the baffles are already sealed in, I'll let it cure for a while and give it a go. http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicone-II-kitchen-and-bath.php < -- this is the bad tube. It'll be 48 hours by tomorrow evening and I won't even need it till Friday afternoon (after I drill my tank). I'm hoping that'll be long enough, but I'll wait till next week if you think that's best. No mold resistant nonsense on the back of my tube! Apparently this is also a bad tube? http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicone-II-window-and-door.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizardx322 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 If your using the silocone to reseal a tank you want ge silicon 2 I like black silicon personally you can order it online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 IDK...I just don't trust to much. For a sump where there isn't any load involved (i.e. Just for baffles) then the GE stuff shld be fine. When I built my take I taked to Glasscages and found out the used Dow Corning #732. It passes milspec so its bound to be good. My 200G has been together for over 2 yrs and no LEAKY LEAKY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 If your using the silocone to reseal a tank you want ge silicon 2 I like black silicon personally you can order it online IDK...I just don't trust to much. For a sump where there isn't any load involved (i.e. Just for baffles) then the GE stuff shld be fine. When I built my take I taked to Glasscages and found out the used Dow Corning #732. It passes milspec so its bound to be good. My 200G has been together for over 2 yrs and no LEAKY LEAKY Just acrylic sump baffles...nothing major. For that I'd probably seek out some of the Dow stuff or GE RTV 108. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 or duct tape... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 GE RTV 108 is the best! They sell it at grainger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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