Jump to content

Hanna Checker Results


Recommended Posts

Alright everyone,

After reading many posts on the topic I decided to give up on the test strips and purchase some real aquarium test kits. Since I'm lazy and prefer non-complicated procedures, I went and bought hanna checkers for alkalinity, nitrite ulr and phosphorus (these were the ones recommended by Mark on his website Mrsaltwatertank.com). So far I've only done the alkalinity and nitrite test. I love how easy they are to use (though opening the top of the hanna alk checker can be a challenge). I hate how the directions do not come with an interpretation or next steps guide!!!! So, can someone please give a description of possible values and next steps?

I can answer my own question on Alkalinity since I've been informed about this before. For instance, I do know that my alk should remain constant and in a range between 8-12 depending on the type of tank i'm keeping - Thank you RedSea Pro test kit!! I was also able to determine the constant I need to multiply my results by (hanna checker result x .056). I have a liquid alk buffer that gives me an amount to add depending on how much I want to increase my alk. Please feel free to elaborate or clear any misconceptions I have.

On the Nitrite levels - I know they should be zero - but what if they aren't? The hanna checker is in parts per billion - not parts per million like most other tests and information online. So when do I need to take action on a result in ppb? For example - my sea horse tank read 36ppb. Now if this was ppm I would probably have dead sea horses. Since it's in billions - is this a safe range or should I do a water change asap?

Sorry for the long explanations, I just want to be as clear as possible since I have not found anything clear online. I would love someone to break down hanna checker test results (esp. ALK, NITRITE URL AND PHOSPHORUS) by possible ranges and next steps. For example

Hanna Checker Alkalinity:

100 - 130 (5.6 - 7.3 dkh): Immediate water change and supplement/buffer

130 - 180 (7.3 - 10 dkh): add buffer

. . . btw what I just wrote above is by no means accurate - it is merely an example of the type of information I am trying to find out and a sample of an easy to read response.

Thanks in advance for reading all of this!!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nitrite levels above .5PPM can be considered harmful to fish. After a tank has cycled your nitrites should always remain near 0 as yours are. PPB to PPM you divide by 1000. Nitrate levels are really what should be tested on an established aquarium and Hanna has not released a checker for Nitrate yet. To learn more about the Nitrogen cycle do a little Googling on the subject.

You can pretty much tell if Nitrates or Phosphates are at elevated levels just by taking a look at a tank. If you've got some nasty stuff growing that you don't like typically it's because one of these items are elevated.

As far as Alk is concerned, in my opinion you should maintain whatever your salt mixture mixes up at. Mine mixes at 155PPM (Hanna), so that's where I keep it via an automated dosing regimen.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...