Derry Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 I think I've got too much calcium buildup in the return pipe from my sump, which is restricting flow and therefore turnover from the tank to the sump. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the frikkin' 90-degree elbow off of the return pipe, much less get the pipe out of the bulkhead at the bottom of the overflow. I can't see any visible glue residue (which I know only counts for so much), and gluing the overflow pipes together seems to be less than the smartest thing for the tank constructor to do. However, I can't get anything to come loose. I know I can always drain the overflow and unscrew the bulkhead, but my overflow operates as a pseudo-cryptic zone, and I don't want to kill off everything living in there. Anybody got some clever ideas for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Have you tried twisting with some chanel locks? If its not glued it should come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derry Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 Yep, and all that does is make the bulkhead spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Can you post a pic of what exactly youre working with? Might need two sets of chanel locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 (edited) Double Edited October 15, 2010 by JimD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derry Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 It's a standard corner overflow with a Durso drain pipe and a return that exits from a Loc-Line nozzle. I took the Loc-Line off today, and it's clear. I tried using the channel locks with some vise grips to hold the return pipe still, but no luck there, either. I might not have a choice but to drain the overflow and remove the bulkhead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 Um why is it a bad idea to glue the overflow pipe? Sure I don't glue my standpipe to the bulkhead, in fact the smart thing to do there is to use a threaded connection. However why would it be a bad idea to glue the rest? I would absolutely 100% glue every connection below my stand and not within the confines of my sump. If any of those pipes fell apart, man what a mess. I'm a pipe-fitter by trade and I think that gluing the piping in your suction lines, as well as your return lines, is the smartest thing you could do. Seriously how cheap a guy are you? PVC and fittings are priced in nickles. You probably couldn't spend more than $15 to re-engineer the entire suction or return line. Why not quit letting it dictate your afternoon and just get in there after it, show it that your the Boss. Buy some new pipe, some new fittings, this time add a few threaded connections and/or unions so you can do some maintenance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derry Posted October 15, 2010 Author Share Posted October 15, 2010 MIke, you've had too much caffeine again... I'm not talking about the fittings under the stand, which I agree should be either glued or threaded, lest one invite disaster. I'm talking about the return standpipe in my overflow box. Cost has nothing to do with this conversation - I never mentioned it, and I've already got enough spare PVC in the garage to rebuild the standpipe assembly if I have to. I'd rather not drain the overflow box and remove the standpipe along with its connecting bulkhead unless I absolutely have to because draining the overflow box would kill all of the critters currently living in there. My question was whether anyone knew any tricks for getting dry-fit PVC unstuck, under the assumption that it was just dry-fit together and not glued together. Got any suggestions there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I can't see any visible glue residue (which I know only counts for so much), and gluing the overflow pipes together seems to be less than the smartest thing for the tank constructor to do. Word for word from the horses, er, reefers typie fingers. I reread what you wrote and I still do not see how you differentiated the top from the bottom. I take what you say at face value and just want it to be clear to any new members that might be planning to do some plumbing of there own. Would hate to think they read your statement and thought "wow I shouldn't glue any of it together, Derry said so". So yeah actually I'm not on a caffeine trip right now. Sounds great though. Maybe I should get me some Monster. Still if you've put that much effort into it, cut it and replace. As I said, this time replace with threaded components. As far as getting it apart if it were glued. Give up cause you can't. The pieces are now "welded" together. The solvents actually melt the pvc pieces together. Even if it is just a push fit that you can't get apart, I wouldn't admit it to anyone. I'd grab a new bulk head and a couple of fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derry Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 You're right, Mike - on the re-read, that was definitely NOT my clearest piece of writing! Looking like replacement's my only option. Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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