Beaux

I am going to name this tank The Crazy Train! Today after maintenance I took a chance to pull the greentip toadstool up closer to the top of the water for a closer inspection. To my surprise the toadstool has been using its flesh from its base, winding around the base to propagate!! I could see a small lump with just a few tiny green tips already showing. I would have taken a photo of it but my hands were drenched with water. Not to mention I would have never thought this would be the reasoning. Has anyone ever had a toadstool naturally propagate in such manner? I will post photos of this as is progress.

Wow! Very nice set up including that torch I'm jealous because I can't keep them. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Hi there and welcome! Lots of friendly folk around here. Put some photos of your tank up, we all like to see them, and trust me i wont be the last to ask! [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I am unsure. The skin at the base is moving upwards There is no flappy skin. It is jaged but sill stiff flesh. There is nothing close enough to it to try and reach out to. After I let it settle down a little bit and destress I will try and pick it ul get it closer to rhe glass so I can get a closer in depth picture to send. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

First off, huge shout out Merman for taking time our of his day to drive cross town and took my par measurements for my tanks! You rock for that man! Can not thank you enough! Second off, i have been hunting for any type of reference guide that would help when placing corals, and came across this. Maybe if anyone that has some spare time Could give it a look over and see if the numbers are correct. Now that I know that I have poor lighting after having my par reding done I have moved things around accordingly and they seemed to be thriving now. I also hope that it can help beginners like me to understand coral placement. Coral Chart.pdf

It Would be all too easy to get rid of our duplicate corals and fragg's if someone by the name of TY would set a date for our next frag swap! hint hint wink wink! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear about that Sierra. I too have done this a few times myself. One way that has helped me to avoid doing it again when I go to one of my LFS is look at their lighting. If i am able to I adjust the lighting to see it in the different spectrums, or with just white only. That has helped me. Or just ask an employee to do it for you. Hope this helps some. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks for rhe reply Jolt. I have indeed confirmed that the silicone is reef safe. I called the company directly and was informed that there are no toxins that would harm corals. I just misread the label which says aquarium safe And bought the white instead of clear. I was just to exhausted and frustrated to want to dissemble it and start form scratch. I am learning (the hard way) is that even 2 identical types of corals still need to be treated as if they are not. Just because one toadstool does perfect and thrives there, grouping them in the proximity does not mean all of them will be ok there next to the same kind. I moved the healthier one to another spot with the exact par, and will adjust the one that has split at the base until he is in a happy place. Again thank you for your insite. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

This tank is going on its 2 year mark. Ph 8.2 Ammonia .25 constant. Tank is happy with that. CA 400 KH 107.4 (6) Nitrate 0 Nitrite 0 Sal 1.25 P04 0 This is my 2nd greentip toadstool. I added the second about 8 months ago. I resesrched a lot about what could be wrong and tried all the reccomend suggestions for the issue. I lifted just the base up to get a better look. The skin is stiff, not soft. I do not see any necrosis. I have dipped it twice, the frag base is clean and clear. I also used a baster at the peeling away part, nothing is helping. It still extends the green tips, stands upright, acting just as normal as the other one. I have not found any information on this being a way to reproduce. So any suggestions? Is it just trying to detach from the frag disk? The lowest photo is from when I first noticed it. The upper photo was taken today.

Im sending you a message here. PM"s do not seem to be working for me Do you have a PayPal account by chance? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I got the two pieces of frogspawn from juiceman. They are gorgeous and doing excellent in their new home! Wish i could have stayed and liaten to them play. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Hey there thanks for thinking of me my 1st question is how tall is the large leather crall I am intrested in the blue record IA the yellow and green recorder and also the rock record if you could please let me know on the size of the large leather coral I can make a decision on that but I would definitely like to have the recordias thank you. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks I did the email admin while all this is going on. Yes I might agree with you with this some part software and part possession. I have 3 or 4 pM"s that just rebound back to my email. "Delivery incomplete There was a temporary problem delivering your message to [email protected]. Gmail will retry for 21 more hours. You'll be notified if the delivery fails permanently." These were all PM's mind you. Not me trying to reply to a donotreply email. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Juiceman, I actually had a reply up within 4 minutes of you posting thia for sale to purchase the hammerhead . For some unknown reason my reply was removed and I was kicked out of rhe system I immediately emailed in about this, not knowing what was going on, not being able to logg in or resetting my password to try and get back to your post. I am not trying to contest the sale, just asking if you might have more to sell, while the admins try and figure out what happened? Thanks, Beaux Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Funny, bringing up temperatures. Around the same time that I was having problems with my calcium we had a our AC go out hat lasted for over a day. I tried my best to keep the temperatures within range although it did exceed the green(80- 82) level on the floatings thermometer for a short period of time meaning that it did go above the temperature range that would be acceptable. While I was awake I tried to keep the temperature low by turning off the lights entirely and taking ice cues and floating them in my sub tank to try to keep the water cooler and not get too hot. But again nothing but the toadstools were affected. My mushrooms closed up along with a few other soft corals, but are fully recovered. I am beginning to wonder if this might tie in with some of the troubles that I'm having with my smaller toadstools while my larger toadstools are doing just fine it's just the smaller ones that have started to whiten and bleach out. That and along with the fact that the small toadstools are different species rather than the larger ones which are green tip toadstools. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks Issac This is pretty much what I had already done. All of my numbers remained in good standing within range until I noticed the calcium starting to drop. That's when I went to my local fish store and explained to them the problem I was having and they offered chemicals to raise the calcium and balance the ph Since I have not added any new pieces of coral it is beyond me why Calcium would drop so rapidly. I was at the understanding that buying the supreme salt water supplied all the nutrients I would need especially considering the fact I only had 2 pieces of hard coral in the tank during this entire duration. The 2 pieces I had were very small candy canes I was at the understanding that buying the supreme water would keep the county of in balance and as I mentioned before I constantly check the water from my local fish store before adding it to the tank. After seeing many of the replies and advice from my local fish store I now understand the older attaint gets the higher demand for things such as calcium and keeping ph in line is more difficult as the older tank gets. I do not currently own a magnesium kit but at this point I think it might be a smart investment. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I suppose i need to invest in a magnesium test kit. I never wanted tl get int many hard corals, just mostly soft. You are not the first to reccomend kalkwasser so o will research more into it. I also suppose I have never known much about magnesium and its the role it plays in the tank. I bought a reef masters kit and that was not included . I just made contact with a membed that has a par meter, another question will be answered about lighting. Thanks for your suggestions!

I use the refractometer and all my numbers have been in constant range. One thing I was wondering about was my PH being steady at 8.2. It was recommended i raise that up slightly, hince the starting to dose, which is something I have never done before now. Guided of course by my LFS. Since I am just learning about doseing I have been using my LFS advice. I buy the premium salt mix everytime, I was told it had nutrients and always check it against my tank perameters before use. I then take a sample to be tested again by my LFS. Their results mirror my results. My concern here is mainly why my other toadstools seem to be bleaching, while everything else is doing great. I was just thinking itmight possibly be product related. PS my coralline growth has had no changed Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

My calicum has been dropping at an alarming rate I started at an even base of 400. Not many hard corals in that tank. The 27th it droped from 400 to 380. 28th it dropped to 320 and my candy canes were showin clear signs of distress at this point. LFS reccomend Reef Complete to raise calcium. First dose it held at 320, 2nd dose back to 380 and its not budging. Then 4 days later following up with a dose of carbonate. Just do not back to back dose. I have not dosed it yet for trying to get the calcium back up. He also gave me reef carbonate for alkalinity/ kh ranging between mostly 8, at 1 time drop to 6. Todays reading shows 107.8 (converted) I have not dosed any of the KH alkalinity ever. My candycanes are stil looking not so good. I have several toadstools,, some green tipped, some not. The regular ones have shut down since I started doseing just these the calicum . They were a pale yellow, now it is if they are bleaching. Almost pure white. Listing over to one side, not standing tall as they always have They are still plump, no wrinkling or decrease in size. Flow has been perfect, never been move since day one. Could the dosing be doing this or something else? My 2 greentips are tenticals fully extended. Not phasing them one bit So what could be doing this ?

Again PM is still not working for.me in tapatalk Is there any chance I could be next in line to borrow your par meter. I have had a post up about it for over a year now. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

1 would like the both the smaller frogspawns. PM is not working for me atm Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thank you so much stoneroller for taking the time to find this video for me. Just from watching it I have gained so much more insite from all the research I have been doing on my own. I think for now I will just stick with the hammer or frogspawns, which I currently have and are flourishing. I have my last 3 head torch and will heed the advice from the video and just wait it out and hope it survives. Like the video says the color variations and the far extensions is what attracted me to the torch. I mostly blame myself for not having enough knowledge. I dislike knowing that I killed a living creature. But I put an equal amount of blame on Google. 9 out of 10 sites I used for research claim that torches are great for a beginner coral! Along with the ease of care for them. Which after my experiences with them have all lead to failure. Again thank you so much for locating that video, it was just what I needed. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yes, they were approximately 3 to 4 inches from each other. Same movements on both as well. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Sascha, I used about 15 to 20 drops, not so dark that I can't see if anything falls off. I use water from my main tank and I usually let it sit 15 to 20 minutes and then into the quarantine tank. My quarantine tank only contains just the basics a heater a cheap power head and and even much worse light. It is also bare bottom.

I do weekly water changes. Only as much as needed to rid surface debris, so around 1/4th weekly. Salinity 1.25 constant. I always check the new water parameters before use to mirror my main tank as close as possible. PH 8.3- 8.2 Ammonia 0 Calcium 450 KH 8 Nitrate 0 Nitrite 0 KH 8 PO4 0 In my sump tank a protien skimmer rated for a 40 gal tank, hob filter for a 70 gallon tank, mine is only a 20 long, that green mass algae chieo (sp) heater and return. The tank is not drilled so I use a HOB thing for the intake drain into my sump. Like I said every other piece of coral are flourishing from my candycanes, acordia mushrooms, regular mushrooms, 2 medium sized green tipped toadstools and many regular toadstools. A few of my mushrooms have propagated and 8 to 10 pieces from the regular toadstools. I have heard this before about my lighting, unfortunatly being on a limited income, there is no possibly way to spend $250 to $300 on that Chineseblack box.