rollrok18

Just stand, I don't like covered tops...call me if you want to see it

Pics please. :-)

Give me a text and I will send them to your phone

Pics please. :-)

90 Gallon DSA aquarium with 40 gallon PM sump w/return pump 650 OBO...would like this thing gone soon. Shoot me a text if interested with your name and I will get back with you asap.

Travis 512-695-8163

New Ocean Chiller - old, but works great -200

Reef Octopus Ca+ reactor - Comes with everything needed even medaia, pH probe and meter, 1/2 full 10lb bottle Co2 -350

Down grading system and don't need this stuff anymore

I have a lot of interest thanks! So I have made the offer of 600 for everything to 3 people, hopefully everyone can understand I am about to loose a lot of money on everything so I am looking for the highest bidder at this point. I will be around tomorrow after noon for showing.

I am trying to sell my tank but need to sell all of my coral first, I have a lot. I will sell all of them in a bundle deal, or I will sell the individual colonys, frags etc.

I am pretty busy so PM me to set up a time to come look, I will get back with you as soon as possible. Not the best pictures in the world but gives you an idea of what I have.

I have a sunlight supply 2X250w DE metal halide with a galaxy 250w dual electronic balast. One of my lights comes on the other does not, just went off one day. It has done this in the past, but has turned back on within a few days. The bulbs are not burned out, not sure if I have a balast problem or wireing is bad? I keep SPS corals (mostly) and am in the process of selling my tank but I can't have light issues right now. Does anyone know how to fix/diagnose these kinds of problems? I would be willing to pay someone who knows what they are doing to fix the problem asap, as me and electricity don't get along very well. Any input would help thanks.

Travis

Have you tried swapping the two cords? This will let you know if there is a problem with the ballast, with the fixture, or maybe with just not having the cords firmly seated.

So I switched the cords around and the light that was not working is now working, so its the ballast....This ballast has a breaker switch, is there a way to tell if the fuse is blown etc. Can the ballast be fixed or do I have to purchase a new one?

I have a sunlight supply 2X250w DE metal halide with a galaxy 250w dual electronic balast. One of my lights comes on the other does not, just went off one day. It has done this in the past, but has turned back on within a few days. The bulbs are not burned out, not sure if I have a balast problem or wireing is bad? I keep SPS corals (mostly) and am in the process of selling my tank but I can't have light issues right now. Does anyone know how to fix/diagnose these kinds of problems? I would be willing to pay someone who knows what they are doing to fix the problem asap, as me and electricity don't get along very well. Any input would help thanks.

Travis

Wave box is model no. 7240, its older but works like new. I did break the impeller when cleaning it, just the fan part so it needs a new one. I think they go for 30 bucks or so. - 250.00 OBO

Reef Octopus model otc-1000, I ran it on my 90 gallon with 45 gallon sump - comes with half full 10lb bottle Co2, pH probe, milwaukee sms122 pH meter, and additional pumps etc. necessary to run the reactor and some media. I ran it in the sump because I don't trust these things from leaking- have to have the fittings on perfect. I believe the chamber is about 12 inches long X 4 inches wide maybe a little bigger but not much -250.00 ( will only sell as a package as I don't have the patience to do anything else at this moment). Max output I could get was about 470ppm Ca 12kH

PM RL150 Skimmer- Works great no probmes 125.00

Sunlight Supply 2X250 hql, 2X64w atenics - Galaxy 250w dual electronic ballast - Of course as I am trying to sell it one of the lights went out so 400.00 - obo ( Have to be patient on this item as I still have livecoral I need to sell, so if you want it I will hold it until I can get rid of my live stock)

New Ocean 1/4hp Chiller w/mag pump - This is an older chiller, works fine, I just think the older ones work better. 200.00

If interested in anything please PM me everything is clean and ready to go or as clean as I can get it...I am pretty busy until Wednesday after 6pm so I will get back to you before then. If you feel I am over pricing something then I am willing to negioate but I feel everything is priced fair. Trying to part out my tank but I went about it the wrong way and did not have anything pulled and ready to go.

How much per pound for the rock?

So I have two main pieces one I am estimating 50lbs and maybe 15-20lbs that are going to have coral remains on them from fragging the main colonys. The big one has about 10-11 remains that will grow the other is abot 6-8 depending on how much I can get off. Since those are prime, the main one for a good display rock I would like 7lb for it. I would be willing to split it somehow if you want to come look at it and we can figure out a way to break it. the other rock in my tank is smaller pieces so 5lb

oh yeah, I will sell everything seperately. I will be around tomorrow after 7pm if you want to come by. I believe he is a medium sized one, even though thats pretty big compaired to most fish 4-5" nose to end of tail. Hows $40

I will send a pic. by request. I am working with old technology and can't get a good picture to post, but I can text you one or some video. I have 125+ lbs. of live rock. There are 46 corals stuck to it, mostly sps acros but there are some duncans, Favia, Chalice etc. as well. Sailfin tang, 2 ribbon gobies, flame hawk, and a big eye squirl fish. I would take 800 for everything, so all you need is a running tank and I can stock it. PM if interested.

Clows and Skimmer are pending sale. If anyone has the time or energy, I would be willing to part with all the rock with all the coral and fish and anemonie for 850 and you can frag it out over a few weeks and maybe make some money? Or transfer the corals and sell the rock etc.

If Matt doesn't take the tank I'm interested in it and the stand (assuming it's painted/stained black).

It is the stand that matches the tank, has an opening on both sides and from the front. it is black. And, assuming that I can get rid of the rock and live stock its 1st come first serve and you can have it. Not sure what Matt actually wants, just the tank or the tank and everything in it? Whats your offer on the tank and stand only? PM me

I want! Just the tank. How much?

Matt

PM sent

I am willing to part out, if you come to look at anything and want a frag then I will frag it for you. Of course, live stock has to go before anything else outside of the chiller and R/O unit.

I have an embarassing amount of mony sunk into this system, as many people do. I don't expect a pile of gold for it, but I do expect a fair price. I have been in the hobby for many years and I understand what a complete set up goes for so bring on the offers.

90 Gallon DSA w/ center overflow

PM RL150 Skimmer, 45 galon PM sump

1/4 hp chiller, Ca reactor w/ controller and bottle

Tunze auto top off, Tunze Wavebox with controller (impeller just went out, 30.00 to replace it, which I am going to try and do soon)

Spectrapure maxcap RO/DI w/ pressure gague and purity monitor. This is a cool system I have set up with 50 gallon reserve tank with a pump and handle for easy water changes or top off's etc.

2X250w sunlight supply HQL (same light as Bruce runs on his tank at aquatek)

2 snowflake clowns 1.5 yrs old w/ sweet bubble tip anemonie, sail fin tang, squirl fish, fire hawk

Mostly SPS there is about 40+ of them and a few LPS. A lot from vivid, I am estimating around 3k+ in sps alone on about 150+lbs live rock, 80 lbs. live sand.

As you can see this is a system that needs nothing accept a little TLC. I went back to school and between that and full time work I am finding it very difficult to even enjoy this system let alone care for it(which is just cleaning and water changes). I don't have a good camera to post pics, and if interested your going to want to come see it anyway. For the right price I would be willing to break it down, help you set it back up and offer all the technical support I can. Comes with water change trash cans, pumps etc. I have a ton of stuff. Make me a fair offer and its yours. Looking to move it asap.

512-695-8163

Travis

Reactor has been traded- Thanks for everyones interest

I have a PM RFCa6 ( I think) that is a little leaky. If someone took a few hours to repair it it would be fine or if you ran it inside your sump it would not need any repairs at all. Comes with the pump and bubble counter. I paid abou 500 new for this thing and just over tightened one of the fittings a broke it. I replaced it but still leaks and I don't have the patience to fix it. I realize its not new and it leaks so I just want to get it out of the garage. Will trade for anything really; corals, lights, or open to any trade saltwater related. I don't need circulation pumps but other than that entertain me. so if you have a bunch of frags you could have a calcium reactor for nothing really...just e-mail me at [email protected]. It is the older model but here are some specs for the new one from PM, looks and works simillar. - Travis

http://www.precisionmarine.com/Storefront/Productdetail.aspx?idproduct=863

For anyone interested in this post and/or is having similar problems I have solved the problem (for now). I did a red slime treatment and cut the lights for 4 days. I was afraid to go anylonger. I bought a python gravel cleaner and sifted through all the open sand in my tank. WORKED GREAT! I did a 20% water change at that time. I did another one 1 week after and another 1 week later. The gravel syphon is the best thing I decided to do. It cleans all the sand and with little effort you can keep the sand from getting sucked up. I also changed my halides, although I think they had little to nothing to do with the problem but it was time for new bulbs anyways. Dont have any pics but could post a few if anyone is interested. There is absolutley no cyano or any signs that there was ever any in the tank. Thanks for everyone contributing to the post.

6 days. also make sure you use a turkey baster and suck up all the cyano you can get to. before you do the treatments and turn skimmer off and UV and pull carbon (if you use it) just pumps and powerheads..

Whats the total amount of time you would go with lights off before any damage is done to the corals and fish?

I will try the red slime treatments back to back with the lights off with 20% water changes, so thats 4-5 days with no lights right?

you could try doing 3 30 gal wc over the course of 2 weeks. that can help. how much skimmate is your skimmer pulling out? how much flow does your return do? how much flow do your powerheads do?

Thats a lot of water, but can be done...The return i believe is an eheim 1260 - 635 gph, 2 maxi jets that put out (supposdly) 1600gph, and one that flows 300gph so 3 total. The skimmate produced about 1/2-3/4 full every 7-10 days, although I will have to start paying more attention because I can't say that for sure may be longer/shorter but not by much.

You could look into excess co2 in the tank or low o2, cyano loves co2.

Also consider the flow in your tank.

Planting halamida in your sandbed is a good way to prevent nutrients from collecting there as well.

There is some kind of vapor bubble build up on the rock and sand bed, how would my tank get excessive CO2 - I have never a a low O2 problem, I think the skimmer kicks up enough o2 in the water but maybe not...Will look into borrowing an O2 measuring device from the Chem department. I am willing to test or try anything at this point...

If your feeding as much as you say then bacterial breakdown of organic matter can release co2, and alot of it. if your tank is 1.5 years old and you have a fairly deep sandbed or one that collects alot of organic matter this can cause a reduction in o2 levels, an increase in co2 levels and algae. what is your alk and ph at?

The bubbles on the rock are o2 bubbles most likely.

how well ventilated is the room your tank is in, your stand?

Not sure what the ALK. is at but I just raised the pH to around 8.6 in case of dinoflagellates, but was sitting around 8.4. With the CO2 question, I was brain farting on break down of food, but I feel like my tank has good flow and a low amount of it breaks down inside the tank before it can be removed, but then again maybe not. Sand bed ranges from 1.5" -2.5" in some spots. I feel like the sand bed does collect organic matter in some areas, so maybe my flow is not as great as I claim. Not sure exactly what the first step I need to take is as this point other than reduction of feeding/amount of food. Any other advice would be appreciated, thanks for your replys.