Good Greef

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Anyone have a used controller for my Maxspec Gyre xf250? It has been hooked up to my Apex for the past few yrs but that variable speed port no longer works.

Anyone have frags to sell of this? Man, this board seems so dead nowadays.

Not gonna question any of your degrees, or say other reefers are smarter than you. I'm an economics and finance guy.. But I just don't know if I trust anyone better than myself, because its my tank that i test daily for 2 yrs and observe with my own eyes. And I am the one watching the daily revival or coral flesh, almost immediately after I do massive water changes. When I dilute my tank 20% between tests, the drop in Sn corresponds exactly. So I think its smart to everyone on online forums to do their own detective work. Because if I were just gonna follow your advice for example that its a nutrient issue, then I cannot explain why po4 levels of .05ppm (using Hanna ULR, daily) for 3 months straight still kills acros, and levels of .12 for 3 months kills them too? Alk always between 7.25dkh-7.50dkh. There's no doubt there's a money grab by TRITON, but isn't this whole **** hobby a money grab? I guess my point is. I don't think I can be more diligent in daily testing and note taking. So I can either go my route or just never buy acros again and enjoy my tank. But to answer you, I was going to send in just fresh saltwater for the test (might still do), but I thought how did my previous massive water changes drop my tin so much, if my newly mixed saltwater was tainted too? Going fwd, my plan is: 1. Make note of my baseline test when results are back next week. 2. Stop water changes for a month and observe my frags to see if tissue is continuing to grow back. Send another Triton test in. If tin levels don't rise at all, then im good. 3. If they do raise slightly, I will stop my search for whatever the hell is causing it. And just spend 15 mins, once a month, and do a 33%water change. 4. Buy more coral

I almost didnt want to post anything b/c it takes so much energy to re-explain my situation. But I consider this a journal for my sake, so here we go. ** Preface: its not the ICP tests that I'm basing my theory on, its the pattern of acro growth then death that has been in lockstep with my tin levels over a 7 month period** After diluting all the tin out of my tank with several 60 gallon water changes 7+ months ago. I loaded up on a bunch of acros from Ty and Jolt. My hypothesis was my initial tin buildup came from the new floated glass and pvc of my tank + one rusty hook above my sump. So I stopped water changes and for several months my acros finally started showing encrusting. Then one by one they started getting the burnt tips and dying, as they did previously with my elevated tin. Alk and nutrients were stable the whole time (see past posts on details bc I dont feel the need to prove they were each time, though its all logged daily in my APEX). Sent in another ICP test and tin was back up to 12mcg/l from 1mcg. Some of yall will say its not an issue but I am 100%saying it is FOR MY TANK. Also read that high p04 excaberates it, which explains why some ppl may not have coral death with elevated tin issues. And all my LPS and gonis are fine, its just the acros and montis. Long story short (or not ha), I took all pumps apart again and noticed rusting in the 2 places I didn't check previously. My tunze osmolator and my water change pump (tunze also)that i store 24/7 in my fresh rodi. Both had signs of rust so I replaced them. Also ran a magnet through my sump and sand. 180 gallons of water changes over a week later, and I immediately see life on what I thought were 100% dead skeletons. The only other "issue" on my ICP was elevated aluminum which I assume came from my 2xblocks of marine pure. i chunked them too bc I dont need it anymore. So I sent in another icp test to get a baseline for my tin going fwd. Will be trying again with a few test acros, and will test again in a month to see if it rises. Sigh... when you test things daily and ensure all parameters are stable, it's discouraging to stay in this hobby (not to mention this all went down when my 4 month old was born SMH). Moral of the story: Tin can be an issue. Nothing removes it except large water changes. If you have an enemy, hide a nail in their sand hahaha.

Got dam it Ty. You can grow a turd on a tile if you wanted to...

Can be 5# or 10#. Just to keep on hand when needed. Happy to pick up wherever is convenient for you. Marc

Congrats bud! That's pretty cool. It's ok to pat yourself on the back for this achievement!!!

Toss that with some sesame oil, ponzu, and sesame seeds [emoji1787][emoji1787]. But really, sorry to hear that happened. This hobby definitely tests one's resilience

So a few articles I read mentioned that although the vast majority of ancillary jobs were eliminated, the maricultured farmers/divers are still tending and growing the corals. So that would hopefully mean an oversupply vs normal?

I also use 2 xf250s with icecap and apex and it works great. Like Jim said, takes a little programming but there's enough templates out there.

Do you still have the sea hare? I can use one for a few weeks to eat some of the GHA I got sprouting in places.

Glad to hear you found a culprit. Did any ICP test reveal anything? My tank has also struggled to keep corals alive until a recent/my first Triton test showed elevated tin levels. So I also found a magnetic hook that sits above my sump was rusty, so after removing and doing 5×60 gallon water changes, corals are finally surviving and growing. Ive heard Metasorb can help, but I wouldn't rely on Curpisorb which many ppl have suggested. I used it for weeks wtih GAC and retested with no changes. Water changes are the only way I am seeing progress.

I wouldnt trust a robot with my bank account either lol. Although I'm unsure if ill kill things before it does [emoji23]

It was the Forth Worth table then. Thx.