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Taylor_Pound1127

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Posts posted by Taylor_Pound1127

  1. Hello. I'm currently running a single brs gfo reactor with the recommended cobalt 1200 pump. I was just wondering as to how the flow should be on the output side. When I raise it out of the water, it is only a trickle. Is that okay? I tested my phosphate on a Hanna checker and it was acceptable, but was just curious as to if that's a good flow. The gfo is tumbling as suggested too

  2. I have another tank that had a massive outbreak. Every rock had two inches of gha on it. I admit to neglecting it and not performing water changes. I've been interested what phosphate test kit I should purchase. I have API, but I know that the scale is way off. I've been looking at salifert test kits

  3. I have another tank that had a massive outbreak. Every rock had two inches of gha on it. I admit to neglecting it and not performing water changes. I've been interested what phosphate test kit I should purchase. I have API, but I know that the scale is way off. I've been looking at salifert test kits

  4. Trying to post photos, but still getting used to the reply box here. I'm using a 18" LED light bar that's suction cupped onto the back of the tank. it's rated at around 5000k-ish, and it's turned on whenever my day lights are off (so for a good 10+hrs). the chaeto is only about baseball sized, so it's not very big. I was researching and actually found a nano GFO reactor that can fit into the fuge of this tank. it's still in beta mode, and it's not always readily available. I've been trying to avoid going overkill and having a huge reactor hanging off of my small 29 tank. I will use chemicals if need be, but which ones should I be using? Most phosphate removers seem to be media bags or are used in reactors and aren't anything you can dose with. The yellow polyp is producing new heads, so it's not slowing coral growth.

  5. Maybe someone can link/bump me to the appropriate thread to help me out.

    Hello. I have had a 29 biocube with the standard pump, lights, filter, and bio balls and also the coral life fan accessory running for about 2 months now. The sand is new and the rocks have been "cooked", and there are only 2 fresh water mollies, 1 purple dottyback, a bubble tip, some yellow polyp, a candy cane coral, and 4 blue leg hermits. I have chaeto algae in the back with an alternating light cycle as well.

    I am curious as to how to get rid of this nuisance algae. It's early stages of green hair algae. What are your opinions? Should I introduce more bottom feeders? Water changes are once a week with 3 gallons of r/o water. Feeding is one pinch of flakes or a turkey Baster of mysis shrimp a day. Should I consider a nano reactor? Or place some phosphate remover in the fuge? All other levels are zero except for phosphate. It's in the. 25 range (don't gasp too hard, I know). Just want some advice. Thank you

  6. Hello. I have an Eschopps 1000 overflow (dual U-tube), and an Odyssea 1000gph pump. I have the pipes flow from the overflow box straight into the left side of my sump (the drain side). The issue I'm having is that there are tons of bubbles shooting into drain side of my sump. I have three compartments in my sump. Left is my drain side. water travels under over through the baffles into my refug, then over under into my return pump side. the micro bubbles manage to travel into the return pump, and go into my display tank.

    Should I make the drain pipes smaller to avoid the water from mixing with the air while it drains? should I converge the two pipes, then T them off, cap one end, and drill a hole in the cap? or should I turn down my return pump?

  7. I'm also having an issue with air flowing through my drain pipes, causing bubbles to shoot out, even though the drain pipes are under the water. the micro bubbles still make their way through the baffles and the bubbles get passed back into my display tank. I personally don't like the bubbles. I've heard to join my two drain pipes with a T or Y PVC pipe, then T it off and cap one end and drill a small hole at the top of the cap. would that reduce the bubbles? or do I need to reduce the size of my drain lines?

  8. forgot to mention that its a sump pump :-/ the 75g tank I have is sumped and the overflow box matches the 1000gph pump. I know I've been told that's too much power already, so maybe I should Consider downgrading?

  9. Hello. So I already have a 1000g pump, but I swear I have a curse where pumps go out on me, and I would like to see what would be your suggestions for reliable 1000-ish gallon pumps. Would like to have one ready as a replacement just in case the worst happens. thanks :-)

  10. I'm in College Station, but no Aggie tongue.png . Used to have a Chinese Catfish, but I went out of town and had someone feed the turtles for me, and they didn't do it properly, and the fish died from all the food clouding up the water. Turtles made it though. I've heard turtles will eat fish, since they're omnivores, but I've had turtles previously and I've noticed that as long at they're raised with them, they won't bite them. Guess I got lucky with that case. Other than that, the turtles are huge buttheads, but that's what I get for choosing turtles, lol

  11. Hello, I am new to the ARC and also had a question about my FW tank. I currently have a 40g breeder tank, with Pool Filter sand in it, no live plants, and two RES turltes. The pump i currently have is a Cascade 1000 Canister filter with Zeolite Crystals as the filter media. The water quality is just not what i want for the turtles, and water changes are frequent. I bet some people would say to just give the turtles away because they're quite a hassle, but I was wondering if sumping the tank would improve the water quality? and what size tank should be the sump? and what size pump should I use? I have a spare 40g breeder tank that is already drilled and is ready to be sumped. Please let me know

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