Sascha D.

I have a teal wall octospawn, 10 heads of reverse frogspawn and I can cut from my peach hammer. I'll PM you the pictures when I get home. 

How classy. Anyone else you want to call out or was that it?

Sadly, we lost a few corals after running into some issues with source water. This is the same problem as last year and I hope it's not an annual event. All of the RODI filters were changed and it looks like we're back on track! One of the long-term goals that I have had is to establish an in-line frag tank and I found a spare tank online in April. I took the first steps to getting that set up this weekend and made a video for fun! 

 

The above code works as of this morning. Also, they're waiving the flat $19.99 on shipping today only. Both promotions work together for an amazing deal! The below example is 26 packages of mysis at $3.19 each. 

 

Available for sale until 7/18

I got the same message. Think we got robo pm'd!

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Thank you everyone that's messaged me so far. The below corals sold. 

• 7
• 8
• 10
• 15

1. Jedi Mind Trick $30
2. Jedi Mind Trick $20
3. Jedi Mind Trick $10
4. GSP $10
5. GSP $10
6. ORA Green/Pink Pocillopora $10
7. ORA Green/Pink Pocillopora $10
8. WWC Bizarro $40
9. Atlantis Meteor Shower $20
10. ORA Elkhorn $15
11. ORA Elkhorn $5
12. ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $20
13. ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $20
14. ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $30
15. ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $30

 

 

 

 

 

I'm a little behind on fragging and some corals got shaded. I mean the bigger corals are blocking the light and not that they're talking bad about each other. 

You're absolutely right; the two options are drilling or installing a HOB option. I've done it both ways and there are arguments for each type, but what's important is what you can live with. First, you should check with the manufacturer and see if the glass is tempered as that will potentially eliminate one option. If the glass isn't tempered on the back wall, then you can drill two holes on the back wall: one for the return and one for the durso drain. The bulkheads would be installed on the back wall and you'd essentially have an internal overflow box. I wouldn't attempt to drill the bottom of the aquarium because there isn't enough room between the edge and the hole. I've read that you need at least 1" between the edge of the aquarium and the hole to prevent chipping while drilling and to handle the stress of the water. Alternatively, you could skip the drilling and slap on a HOB option to plumb directly to the sump. People generally pick this option because drilling is not available, they're afraid to do it, or they don't want to remove an established system. Everything else is easy after you decide which overflow option to go with.

46 minutes ago, Jen_McG said:

So it now being 2019, anyone have a better idea about the whole green thing???

Corals adapt the zooxanthellae within their structure to changing lighting conditions. EcoTech has developed research into how corals respond to different temperatures and used that research to create light settings within their products (see attachment). I'm assuming a lot of companies in the industry perform similar research, but I'm not sure who was the first to give proper credit. Anyway, most corals change colors from tank to tank mostly due to lighting conditions in different placement areas. Acans and brains are famous for changing to completely different colors and that's why they're seldom named corals. SPS retain colors more readily, but can also change in reaction to less/more light and different PAR levels. IME SPS turn green/brown with predominately yellow/white light in the 2K-5K range and with high nutrient environments. I personally enjoy 18K for viewing.

 

ReefWholesale_CoralLab.pdf

You finally got your naso! I bet Holly is ecstatic! Tank looks great bud!

Super pumped! It's been a long time since I lost mine in the crash. Need to reorganize some corals to mix up some of the colors/shapes and then finish stocking my last five. Going to be a blast watching everything grow!

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Corrected the video and pictures in the post above. Somehow the pictures got doubled and the video was completely gone!

In other news, there is something seriously wrong with me! I turned down a beautiful, healthy, Desjardini Sailfin Tang list for $30. I can't even find a meme that expresses my confusion at my own actions right now...

Except for the Nori, all of your foods are protein based. If I remember right, the stringy stuff is due to too much protein and fat in the diet. I would cut the feeding down for a week and see if that improves it. I would feed pellets and one type of frozen food per day and Nori 2-3 times a week. A lot of books say that fish benefit from multiple smaller feedings because their stomachs aren't big enough to take in too much at one time, but I've never had any problems feeding once per day. 

That's typically a sign of poor bowel health caused by diet. It's common in fresh water fish, but I don't see it often in saltwater. What are you feeding and how often?

On 4/20/2019 at 4:37 PM, jolt said:

You could be right Sascha.  I don't claim to be an expert, but I feel we can't be certain until we see some test results.  If I understand correctly, Eddie added Marine pure, saw a huge decrease in algae growth, and then acros started RTN.  

I don't really understand why people are buying MarinePure; they're basically bioballs. The bacteria shouldn't populate higher than the nutrient level will allow unless you're dosing carbon. I guess it would be beneficial if you are limited on space or want to have minimal aquascape in the display. Juiceman could be right and the MP blocks are leaching something. It would be impossible to test for, but you would see some improvement with water changes. 

I dunno Jolt, if they were starving them I would expect faded colors and zero extension.

Did you replace any media recently? That student drop in PO4 can nuke some sticks. Bp will do it to but takes a few weeks to come online.

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That's a frightening thought. Although I wonder if thats the cause if jolt's tank would also show degradation as we live in such close proximity.

It's possible, but you'd have to be filtering water at the same time using media around the same age. If someone filtered a bunch of water before the incident then they might miss it altogether before they filter again.

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I had something similar happen two years ago and it ended up being a water issue. The city flushed the municipal water with chloramine and it turned up my rodi. If water changes aren't helping then it's the source.

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So excited! My last planned fish is on the way. I've been waiting for one to pop up for about two months. Wasn't planning on a male, but it was a perfect 5" size and I had to do it. Divers Den don't let me down!

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This is one of the rare times that my angels weren't crowding in front of the camera to provide some reference! Each head is about 3x3" and I would guess 5-7 heads. The whole piece is about 8"x5" or so. I had a single head on the sand for about a year and it never did anything. Once I mounted it to the rocks, it really exploded and tripled in size. 

The way my phone adjusts to the Radions is really wild!

 

On 4/11/2019 at 5:29 PM, Dogfish said:

It drain into a 5 gallon container that I do empty, rather than have it go down the drain. I wiped off the front a bit so you can see the foam. Looks like its growing some green algae in the neck. Maybe hair algae or green coraline.

This sump has been dark all three years, but I've toyed around with going back to a lit refugium. Both methods have their benefits and I think the lit sump produces more in the way of microfauna. One thing that I don't miss is cleaning coralline and other types of algae off the skimmer! Every time I sit down to redesign my sump, some new project comes along. 

I guess after a year I should clean mine. When I have time........

Watchu got, a 20g reservoir with a neck cleaner? [emoji2962] I can go about 4 weeks on my current cup and skim consistency level.

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