MasonHoff
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Posts posted by MasonHoff
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hey patrick i have a 28g jbj nano cube! that i have COMPLETLY moded (I did months of research about cubes, and specficly the jbj HQI!! its a powerhouse! I would not mind if you stoped by and you could pick my brain on it! as i might you for your planted FW tank knowledge. call me 512-619-nine9six3 and you can come by sometime!
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i had zoa eating nudi's once in my tank and got rid of them by dosing my tank with salifert flatworm exit at a x3 stregnth dose every week for 4 weeks. the faltworm exit kills adult nudis and repeat to kill eggs that have hatched. now my zoas are nice and happy and that pic was a month ago! they have grown a bunch!
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can anyone let me use hanna to calibrate current method of vial with sw and liquid regeant. (i have two salifert, and api that came with the tank) i have been using my api test for 6 months cause of how quick it is. and have kept it between 9-11 dkh. untill someone told api test were wacky so i just want to test!
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great looking! i love clowns!
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bacteria infection? how do you get or reverse this
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second in line for locline!
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Seritopora birdsnest looked dusty around base. Never had problem before. But someone told me API test ran diffrent with alk. So I brought alk up. i usually keep my dkh between 9-11. but wihen it responded with i was between 10-12dkh on api test and all coral did respond really well! and i brought it up a lil more over time to bettween 11-12.5 then my seritopora on one got dusty around base and that dusty area creaped up.
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thats what i meant.... anyone else
Had trouble with the API kits awhile back running 2dkH high. Confirmed this multiple times on multiple tanks. Switched to Hanna, couldn't be easier and corals are much happier now.
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API, Salifert, Lamotte, Hanna
some one told me API test kits run low.
which test kit do you use and why?
any kits have you found not to be true?
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Clo, Hikari has been perfecting their fish food diets based on over 100 years of experiments with keeping and breeding fish, not looking for the cheapest shrimp salesman. Quality frozen foods are formulated with vitamins and minerals in amounts useable and beneficial to aquarium fish. Mincing some seafood from HEB is fine to feed your fish, but there is a science to frozen foods that actually goes above and beyond what you are able to achieve personally. Frankly we are lucky that it is so affordable.
Mason, unless you have a pufferfish, scallop, oyster, clam, squid, and octopus are not necessarily anything that most of your aquarium fish eat naturally. I also believe it is highly unlikely that any of your fish eat perch or broccoli and carrots. If you want to feel like you are feeding a catch all diet stick with the Rod's. I like to actually cater to the needs of particular species. Also, i can assure you that NONE of your fish eat every third day in nature.
Great info! a apreciate your knowledge! and would love to research and use thier products! if my fish like it
oh and i do have green spotted puffer in my FW! (about 3 years old, and needs to be converted to SW) but now where near the type or size of puffer to be eating scallops in the wild! j/j but he does get a once a week supply for days! of ghost shrimp and snails to eat! plus he LOVES all types of flake food, freeze dried krill (hand fed), blood worms, and now recently DUNGH DAH DAH! sinking pellets! (it crazy to watch his craze like a catfish) and for all those sensitve people out there close you ears! his main diet is ballon molly fry!
i varied diet is good in my opinion!
and i cant lie there are long streches where i do give them snack on a daily basis! gotta give all diffrent live stock you own a healthy diet of thier "natural" desire.
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i feed my tank
RODS FOOD.
and supplement every once in a while with:
brine shrimp or cyclopeeze as a treat every once a week!
and some flakes of diffrent sorts bi-weekly
ROD'S FOOD
includes:
Shrimp, Scallop, Oyster, Clam, Squid, Octopus, Perch, Green Nori (porphyra sp), Red unroasted nori (porphyra sp) Mysis, Krill, Pacific plankton (Euphausia sp.) Brine shrimp, Frozen red cyclops, Fish eggs, Oyster eggs, Golden pearls (all sizes), Broccoli, carrot, Garlic, Selco, Astaxanthin (Haematococcus pluvialis), Beta-meal (Dunalliella Salina), Freshly harvested rotifers, freshly hatched baby brine shrimp.
and you really couldnt ask for more
and feed every third day! and feed lightly if you wanna to keep a clean tank. and every third day is enough
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clo and aqua girl! i recomend you both to soak your food in vitamins (i.e. kents zoe) and garlic extract. a kent product as well! Clo you should think about crushed coral as would haved saved you the problem with sand dust cloud. and I recomend you going to aquatek or fishy b. and buying your selfs TLC for saltwater. add once a week. (its nitryfying bacteria) and aqua girl stabilty is not the best for saltwater im my opinion. oh and clo your manderin prolly wasnt eating for days before you bought him. to be quite honest! i have zero fish deaths using TLC! and my tank is thriving and is cleaner than heck!
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I don't know much about lights, so please help me here. I have a Coralife 150w HQI which takes DE MH bulbs. If I could find Double Ended Plusrite bulbs, could I just use them instead of what I currently have? (Which is what comes with the unit.) What do I need to consider when I use a ballast?
Duncan7
i got me 150w double end MH 20k bulb form fishy buisness for 62 bucks! there a lil more exspensive than regular MH bulbs! but worth the money!
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all are from Austin Aqua Farms. the three in front are japanese acans? and the one middle top is austrailan as labeled by them! i know nothong of genius
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do you wanna sell stevie t cup?
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that is funny as hell! "i dont know what it is! but our cheif metoroligist said it is some sort of organic matter??" HAHA
Live rotifers
in Livestock
Posted
would a mandrin eat some?