Starsprinkle Rainbowsmile

Tank looks real nice and clean Robb, good job. Can't wait to see more of it.

Also no disrespect, but perhaps you should have planned this out a little better, instead of posting the ad after dismantling your tank, and having all your livestock in such a precarious situation. That is very short notice...

Price Drop $300 SOLD

No problem, yes this tank is drilled. It is ReefReady, drilled with two holes, installed with a center overflow box, durso stand pipes, and flow accelarators are included. I think perhaps the confusion is that Oceanic makes two models of this tank, a RR and a non-RR version. Mine IS the ReefReady version. Oceanic calls their ReefReady system Megaflow. Here is an image I found that shows the center overflow and accessory kit; the corner protectors in this image are there for shipping and are removed for use. Also note all the edges are mitred to a really nice finish: Here is another picture with the Coralife Aqualight (also part of the Oceanic brand) installed:

Replied to PMs, edited my description. I also have a NIB Coralife Aqualight Advanced Hang/Clip-on 150w HQI light fixture I would be willing to sell along with this tank. It is what I had planned on using with this tank to keep the clean rimless aesthetic.

No, sorry, there is no sump, this is just the tank only.

just do it, Mama....just do it...............

Hi folks, I've got an Oceanic Illuminata 57g ReefReady Rimless Aquarium for sale. New, never touched water. About 4 Months old. Comes with Megaflow system w/Stand Pipes. $350 OBO Price Drop $300 Oceanic.com Reefbuilders w/Pics & Video Can take pics myself if wanted but its exactly the same as above. EDIT: This is the tank only, the sumps, pumps, lights, and the tech series stand is not included. It seems my description could cause some confusion. the Megaflow overflow system by Oceanic includes the drilled reefready tank, overflow box, and an accessory kit which includes Durso Stand Pipes, as well as flow accelerators.

That is a starting dose, and you will need to adjust it accordingly. There is a max of 1ml per gallon of each component daily. Just do daily testings of calcium,dkh, and pH, adjusting the dosages until everything is normalized. BTW, I use B-Ionic in addition to water changes to regulate my calcium, hardness and pH with good success. It's also supposed to provide all the important trace elements. I think it is a great product so far.

*Pending Still available. SOLD

PM replied to all.

Bump. Still available $200 OBO.

i've got a spare light you can borrow if you need it.

Not to mention if you ditch the Coralife lamps and replace them with MH lamps with very high PAR performance like the Reeflux's.

Make sure water params are good. Water flow is moderate to low. In my experience, they need to be on the sand bed, and not on rock. Try feeding it mysis shrimp or marine snow. I had pretty good luck with my plate coral, but I had a hermit crab that would walk all over it and steal food from it, so perhaps one of your livestock might be causing it stress.

Price drop to $200

Just an update, as of today my Royal Gramma is virtually spot free. I think I may see at most 2-3 spots, but it's almost all gone. I don't know if that is just the natural cycle of the parasite, and if it is gone for good, or if they will return.

Would like to attend.

Derek, thanks for the quick replies! That puts my mind better at ease. None of my other fish got spotty after I introduced them, so that knowledge is new to me. But I suppose a trip from California is a bit more stressful, than a simple car drive from Austin.

Really? That is good to hear. Will my other fish be in any danger once the parasites complete their cycle?

Huge incoming pic... I left it large so that hopefully what I am describing can be better seen. It's rather difficult trying to snap a macro shot of moving fish thankfully my new RG decided to give me a quick little pose!

I have never experienced Marine Ich before, but I think I may have it now. Although I am not 100% sure, perhaps someone can help me confirm. A Royal Gramma that I bought in the Vivid group order today appears with a couple dozen small white spots spread variously around his body. These spots were not there yesterday. So far, none of my other fish have any of these white spots. I read through a couple Ich threads here and elsewhere. What would be my best solution to this problem if it is indeed Ich? I do not have a QT tank. But I suppose I could set one up if need be. I just have no idea how I am going to catch my fish and transfer them over. Seriously, I think it would be impossible without tearing down the entire aquascape. In Fishtales' thread, Kich-Ich was mentioned, which I assume was used in the display tank? Any suggestions are appreciated. Also, the Royal Gramma appears healthy and is eating, he doesn't appear "sick" other than the white spots which appeared overnight. Don't know if that means anything. Thanks, ChristianR

Hi Diabeetus, I am running a 150w 14K Phoenix MH DE over my tank. I do not have any actinic supplementation. I was first running a Coralife 14K bulb that was so white it was yellow. It was horrible. When I first installed the Phoenix 14K, I thought I had made a huge mistake. The color was atrocious. It was a dull, washed out greyish-blue that drowned out ALL of the color in my tank. But I had read that you need to let MH lamps have a proper "burn-in" time of up to 2 weeks for their proper color and par to settle in. So I waited it out. After two weeks it was a little better, but still unpleasing. I went to search for a new lamp and let another two or three weeks pass by. By that time, the lamp had settled in very nicely. It now produces a very nice crisp white combined with a nice blue that is not overwhelming. There is even a hint of purple to the color. It is quite bright, and my SPS do well under it. All the colors in my tank are bright and defined. It is now quite pleasing to view and a great performing lamp. Out of all the reviews I've read, I've never seen it mentioned the Phoenix 14K producing any hint of purple, no matter how slight. However, I come to find there are many variables to how a lamp will perform, your ballast being a big factor. So your mileage may vary. Although I am pleased with the Phoenix 14K now, it is still not quite the right look that I am wanting to achieve. As I said, the colors are nice and some of my corals do fluoresce, but they do not quite "pop" and have the contrast that I have seen in many other tanks. This is much easier to obtain with supplemental actinic lighting, and more difficult with only a MH lamp. As I understand it, the fluorescence of corals is due to certain color pigments interacting with light in the 420 nanometer range. You will find some MH lamps that have spectrographs. If you want that actinic coloration and pop without supplemental actinic lights, you will need to find a MH lamp that had a solid peak in the 420-450 nanometer range. If anybody sees that I am wrong in my understanding, please correct me. There are several lamps on the market that receive positive praise, there are the Radium 20K, Phoenix 14K, Reeflux 12K & 20K, Elos 20K, etc... After some research, and wanting a single MH lamp that will produce the par, color, and performance that I am looking for without any actinic supplementation, my next lamp purchase will most likely be the new Elos Spectra Chrome 20K "Abyss" lamp, and I will be sure to write up a review once it is burned in and I have some experience with it. I'd take some pictures of my current Phoenix 14K setup, but I do not have a very good camera or photography skills and its very difficult to accurately portray the color in a photograph without knowing how to adjust for white balance and all those other camera settings.

Mixed tank 70% - 20% - 10% SPS/LPS/Soft