23 replies to this topic

[dapettit]

This is not of my design. You can thank the Mannings.

I would like to thank Robert Manning for his inspiration and guidance while assembling the reactor. Also, to Cindy Manning for photographing the progress.

I’m sure I have left something out so if you need additional info please PM me.

I have broken down into sub-assemblies:

First lets start with the parts. All materails are avaiable at Lowes of HD except where indicated.


Parts list:

1 External Circulation Pump (I used an Ehiem 1250)

1 Westinghouse Whole House Filter (model # WHKF-DWHBB purchased at Lowes $59.99)



1 sq ft Pond filter pad material - Note: needs to be pretty stiff, not floppy, and about 1 inch thick.

1ft of 1” I.D. tubing (must be able to fit "very tightly" over ends of 3/4" PVC pipe)

1 package 1/4” barb (found in auto-sprinkler section) - contains 4 per pkg.

1 3/4 inch In-Line Probe Mounting Gland with Compression Fitting – purchased from Marine Depot. Compression fitting

1 4” PVC Cap

1 3/4” SOC T

1 3/4” to 1/2” Slip Threaded Bushings

1 3/4” Ball Valve SOC

2 Rolls of Teflon Tape

2 1” male NPT to 3/4” Female SOC Adapter

3 PVC 3/4” SOC Unions

4 PVC 3/4” SOC Elbows

5ft 3/4” PVC pipe

Most pumps have a ¾” to 1” inlet and outlet so how you get to 3/4” is up to you.

Get your parts together because step one is on it's way!

[Zarathustra2]

Ohhh Ohhh you have my attention!

[dapettit]

Part 1 - Media Holder

General description: This part of the assembly will be used to melt the aragonite media. This will be the hardest part of the project.

1-Drill 1 3/8” hole in the center of the 4” PVC cap.






2-Cut an 8" piece of 3/4" PVC pipe.

3-Cut a 4" piece of 1” tubing.

4-Work 3/4" PVC Pipe into one end of the 1” tubing (total length including PVC pipe approximately 10".




NOTE: The flex tubing should fit snuggly in the head of the filter.




5-Place 4’ cap into the filter housing and slide the PVC tubing assembly into the hole in the cap.

6-Use a pencil and make where the top of the cap comes on the PVC tube.



7-Cut a 1/2" off each end of a 3/4" coupling. These will be used to set the cap at the right height on the PVC tube. (Special note: What you want to achieve here, is the 4" dia cap's skirt to be as tight against the bottom of the filter bowl when assembled as possible – it will not really form a "seal" - but you want as little water to be able to blow past it's outer edge as possible, in order to force as much water up through the bazillion little holes you will drill in it's upper surface later on).

8-Slide the first cut PVC just above the pencil line.

9-Use a q-tip to apply PVC glue to the PVC tube just above the pencil line and slide the first ring into place. Hold for 30 seconds to let the glue set.



10-Slide the 4” cap from the bottom until the top touches the bottom of the ring.

11-Slide the second cut ring on the bottom of the tube leaving enough space to apply PVC glue with a q-tip.

12-Apply the glue and slide the ring to the bottom of the 4” cap until flush and tight. Hold for 30 seconds to allow the glue to set.



13-Apply PVC glue with the q-tip to the bottom and top edge of the cap to completely seal the rings to the cap.

14-Let dry completely.

15-Turn the assembly so the bottom side is facing you and drill several 1/4" holes in the pipe just below the glued ring. (This is to allow water to flow down the tube and out through the 4" drilled plate). This can also be done before you assemble the above, just try not to glue them shut.



16-Once glue is dry drill a bazillon holes in the top of the 4” cap using a 5/64th drill bit. (lubricate/cool the drill with plenty of fluid, if no drill press is available).



To be continued. . .

[dapettit]

17-Using the filter head as a guide cut a piece of the pond filter pad to fit.



18-cut a hole in the center of the pad to fit the 1" plastic tubing.





19-This will be used to hold melt the media in the reactor.

Stay tuned for step two. . .

[dapettit]

Part 2 Plumbing (this can be changed to meet the needs of your situation).

General description: This part is just a closed-loop re-circulator, with a ball valve in it to restrict the flow so you have a reactor, and not an aragonite pulverize - you don't really want your aragonite ground into powder, but you do want to be able to move it "a little" sometimes to keep it from just melting into a mass of stone. The unions are for easy disassembly. These dimensions were measured from my final build. You should measure your pieces, and cut them as you go.

1-cut 2 pieces of 3/4" PVC pipe 1=5 1/2", 1=11 1/2".

2-Cut 3 pieces of PVC pipe 1 3/4".

3-Glue two 90 elbows onto the opposite ends of the 11 1/2" pipe facing the same direction.

4-Glue the 5 1/2" pipe to the 90 elbow on the left side of the assembled pipe.

5-Glue a 90 elbow to the 5 1/2" pipe with the elbow facing straight up.



6-Glue one of the 1 3/4" cut pieces into this 90 elbow, then glue a 3/4" ball valve to the other end of the 1 3/4" piece.

7-Glue a second cut 1 3/4" piece to the top of the 3/4" ball valve.



8-Glue the male end of a 3/4" union to the exposed piece of 1 3/4" piece.

9-Glue the last piece of 1 3/4" piece to the 90 elbow at the opposite end of 11 1/2" piece.

10-Cut a piece of PVC tubing and glue into the left end of the above assembly.

11-Glue the female end of a 3/4" union to the exposed piece of 1 3/4" piece.



12-Set aside to dry.

Next step to follow:

[dapettit]

Part 3 Pump Connection

Since this section is relative to the particular brand and size of your pump I am only posting photos of my pump configuration:









Next step to follow:

[dapettit]

Part 4 Filter Head

1-Run Teflon tape around the threads of two 1" to 3/4" adapter and screw them into the in and out on the top of the filter head.









2-Cut two pieces of PVC 1 3/4" and glue them into the 1" to 3/4" adapter.

3-Glue a 90 elbow the 1 3/4" on the OUT side of the lid.

4-Glue a T to the 1 3/4" piece on the IN side of the lid. (See picture for orientation).



5-Glue a 3/4" to 1/2" slip threaded bushings into the top of the T.

6-Wrap a large amount of Teflon tape around the threads of the 3/4 inch In-Line Probe Mounting Gland with Compression Fitting and screw into the 3/4" to 1/2" slip threaded bushing.

7-Assemble plumbing and connect the pump to the OUT side of the filter head. Also put the pH probe into the gland.(The pump MUST be connected to the OUT side of the filter head in order for the water to be forced down the tube and flow up through your media).





8-Run a leak test (change the water out several times to remove anything in the water and remove the glue smell).



Final step to follow:

[dapettit]

Part 5 Connecting water in, Co2 in, effluent out

You can put these anywhere you like in the closed loop system

1-Cut the bottom barb off (3) of the ¼” barb.

2-Determine where you want each of the 3 above connections to be and drill a hole.

3-Using two part epoxy glue each modified barb into place. (It takes very little and make sure the glue does not get in the bottom of the barb.

4-Set aside to dry. (usually 24 hrs)

5-I suggest labeling each barb as to input or output.

5-After the barbs have dried use a T and some silicone tubing to make a temporary closed loop system and water test for leaks.



You will need a Co2 canister, Co2regulator w/solenoid and bubble counter, pH controller, silicone aquarium tubing, 1/4” hard flex tubing, bubble drip counter, and water flow adjustments to get it all hooked up and running.


That’s it! I sure I left something out. If you have any questions or need any help please feel free to PM me. I also have this available in a Word document (with out photos) I will be happy to share.

For those of you who would like to have one built I am willing to do so provided you supply the materials. . .

I have attached a PDF for your convenience.

Happy DIYing,

Dave-

Attached Files

•  Calcium Reactor on the Cheap.pdf   924.64K   65 downloads

[Zarathustra2]

This is a great buildout. thanks for posting. I think i'll be setting it up after my current list of projects is done.

[subsea]

Dave, kudoes to you. Excellant crafmanship. I made my own CO2 generator and calcium reactor, but it was not compact to fit under a tank. I actually ran two. One was in my garage with a full size CO2 bottle. The effluent line driped into a remote deep sand bed that was part of an extended sump for my show tank. The second system was in my greenhouse and was used to grow ediable seaweed. Any plant will benefit from CO2, it is all a matter of balance.

Keep the peace, spread the faith.
Pat

[julespinkyd]

This is awesome work. I think I will begin this project by the end of this month. Do you think that I can ge some guidance when the time comes. I am new to calcium reactors but hear that they are great for reef tanks. I just find it hard to justify to my other half the cost of buying one of these new. Therefore this solution is definitely doable. Now , since I am new to calcium reactors, would this be a fair size for a 75 Gallon tank. Please excuse the question but I am not too familiar with how these things work but know that I would like to have one.

[dapettit]

Yes this would be adequate for a 75. Another reefer has the same reactor on his 200 gallon system. Just has a larger return pump.

I would get the CO2 regulator w/solenoid and the pH controller first. These will be your most expensive items. It hink I stll have the links to the web sites I purchased mine at.

If you need assistance just let me know.

[caferacermike]

Yeah how is this holding up? It's been a long time now. At least a year right? I've not seen much of the Mannings in several months, so I'd love to hear if this homebrew held up and is still working. I think this is one of the handiest home builds (from a practical stand point, not everyone can build a 360g starfire tank) I've seen on any forum. There are a whole lot of "how to build a skimmer from a 2 liter bottle" but this actually looked good in person.

[dapettit]

Mike,

Both mine and the Mannings are going strong. Getting ready to replace my first 5lb bottle of C02. Params are holding. The only mishap to my system was the bubble counter got stock. Other than that I have had fantastic coral growth.

Dave-

[julespinkyd]

Yes this would be adequate for a 75. Another reefer has the same reactor on his 200 gallon system. Just has a larger return pump.

I would get the CO2 regulator w/solenoid and the pH controller first. These will be your most expensive items. It hink I stll have the links to the web sites I purchased mine at.

If you need assistance just let me know.

That would be great. I need to know exactly everything I need to build this. If you can find the links, that would be great. Thanks for all of the info. If you do not mind, would it be OK for me to contact you when the time is right? i just want to make sure I do not spend extra money on doing things twice.

[dapettit]

Everything in the way of building materials is listed in the thread. I will try to find the links. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

[mhart032]

Dave, how's the rx working out? I think I'm
Going to try and build one in the next couple weeks. How long did it take to build it?
Thanks
Matt

[dapettit]

Hey Matt,

It was GREAT! I have stopped using it due to a major bryopsis break out.

It took me a Saturday afternoon to build once I had all the materials together. I have a few elbows and a couple of feet of PVC along with the pond filter pad material (I think left).

I'd be willing to help if you need it. . .

Dave-

[innate1]

Dave you are too cool. You are always one of the first to help out. Sign me up for the Dave fan club.

[dapettit]

ahhhh shucks . . .