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Christyef

Dinos, cyano, or diatoms?

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I’ve been trying to figure out which one I’m currently dealing with and the info online is so misleading. My brown algae is stringy, has bubbles, blows off easily, and comes back very quickly. In every different thing I read all these characteristics are used to describe each type. I’ve tried manual removal. Blowing off with a turkey baster DAILY! I have to to keep it off my very unhappy zoas and palys. I also siphoned it out and let the water go back into my sock, but think that was a waste of time. I think it just broke up the particles. I did collect a lot in the floss and sock, but it seemed to come back the next day. The tank has only been set up since Labor Day, and I did have rocks cycling in my garage to try to avoid a big cycle. But in hindsight, it was so hot I think all bacteria was lost. So, basically I’m starting with a new tank. Is the only way to really tell what I’m dealing with a microscope? I’ve read that a few times from the different forums.

 

 

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If it’s looks like snot.. with bubbles and it blows clearly off, not in sheets like cyano, it’s Dino’s.


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I'm willing to bet it's dinos.  I believe I got those in both my tanks due to (1) lack of biodiversity, (2) starting with dry rock, and (3) nutrients too low.  I e;liminated it in  both my tanks.  It's hard to say what specifically addresed it, but I did all these things (1) added pods, (2) started dosing phyto, (3) manual removal of the dinos by siphoning them directly off rocks etc coupled with water changes, (4) dosing up my levels of nitrates and phosphates, and/or adding fish & increasing feeding.  Good luck!

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I added pods on Sunday. Not bc of the Dinos, but glad that’s an added bonus. I’ve been siphoning. Doing weekly water changes. Should I increase the frequency and lessen the gallons per change? I have 21 fish. None bigger than 3-4”. A 3’ eel, conch, 10 cerith snails (give or take), and about 20 turbo snails. I think my bioload is good. I’m also running gfo and plan to hook up my UV sterilizer soon as I get a pump. I’ve also read mixed reviews on this helping with nuisance algae. Not sure about the phytoplankton. I’ll read up on that.

 

 

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I did the siphoning weekly.  All told it took about a month and 2-3 long sessions.  I was siphoning with the rigid tubing like you use on the RODI units.  So really getting down in the rocks and pulling up stuff but it took a long time in my 180.  I also found that if I turned off all the pumps and blew the dinos off the sand and rocks they would start to clump up and float to the top of the water where I could skim them off the surface with a solo cup.  Phyto helps feed pods, so my goal is to promote populations of lots of things that compete with the dinos for nutrient consumption, including pods and corals.

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Ok. Thanks for the info. I taped a empty pen to the same hose you’re talking about. Allowing me to also get deep into the crevices. I feel better knowing I’m doing all I can do. I know patience is key. Just wanted to be sure of the beast I was dealing with


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As far as I know, the only way to be 100% sure is with a microscope.

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+1 on needing a microscope (and an experienced algae taxonomist).  But my vote is lyngbya cyanobacteria.  Like other nuisance algae I would only use manual removal.   And like my threads on dealing with nuisance algae it can take several months to work through it.  Good see you've stopped siphoning through a sock, it's a single cell algae so some of it's going to work it's way through.  Siphoning through a sock also leaves a lot of the exudants from the algae in the water which may include toxins various algae produce as well as the sugars (DOC) that can promote pathogenic bacteria and viruses for corals.   I would be doing weekly water changes of less than 10%. 

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It's sometimes hard to identify nussiance algae because there are so many different kinds. The good news is that the treatment is the same for dinos or cyano. I've been lucky enough to have them both at some point and neither are very fun! Also, if you want a second opinion you can always email Reef Cleaner some pictures and they will help you identify it. Good Luck! :cheer:

Quote

 If you are in doubt as to what you have send us a picture, there are many similar looking species that are easily removed.

I'm going to go with Calothrix Cyanobacteria. I've attached a picture below.

Image result for calothrix cyanobacteria

 

Here is a picture of dinoflagellata that we've all come to know and love. 

Image result for Dinoflagellates aquarium

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Hell, maybe I have both. . Stringy in places and fluffy in others. I’ll take pix when I get home


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Will these brown algae’s cause false reading on a po4 test? Seems like I read that somewhere (maybe here[mention=1247]Timfish[/mention]), but can’t remember.

 

 

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d4d81dd89c8afa17834f21e613e8d599.jpgd54eb943ba9c90773a2cafe9b6e29fc8.jpg7229f08c5314aa6311153d1e9fac772e.jpg1b34b544b9e55a69827c2edf5a3341ac.jpglast photo is hard to see, but it’s stringy floating on the top


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I read online about dosing with peroxide. I’m going to read more on it, possibly try, and I’ve reduced my lights to 30% 3 hours a day


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I hooked up my uv sterilizer and have my skimmer skimming very wet into a 5 gal bucket. The lights only come on from 3-6 pm. I noticed a huge difference yesterday with just the new light schedule and 5 ml of h2o2 twice yesterday. I’ve also cut feeding back to every other day until I get this under control.


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On 10/5/2018 at 5:29 PM, Christyef said:

Will these brown algae’s cause false reading on a po4 test? Seems like I read that somewhere (maybe here[mention=1247]Timfish[/mention]), but can’t remember.

Not that I know of.  But the cyanobacteria will grow fine with little or no measurable nutrients.  They are able to fix nitrogen (why some species are used by corals) and are able to out compete corals for phosphates.   I am not a proponent of reducing lighting, doing so has just as negative effect on corals as algae and does nothing for fixing the underlying problem.

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Not that I know of.  I am not a proponent of reducing lighting, doing so has just as negative effect on corals as algae and does nothing for fixing the underlying problem.

I was worried about that as well bc I have nems. I know they require a lot of light, and my tank being so unstable as is, I didn’t want to leave it totally in the dark for 3 days. So, I just reduced the intensity of the radions to 30% and only run them 3 hours. I’m hoping the addition of the UV will help remove most of the Dinos. I also added extra filter floss and pads to catch all the floating particles. I’ll rinse them twice a day or more if needed


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7ef2cce1d2a166ad938c61cccfeb07e7.jpgf87c0c7603bd11114683bd7fdc60f84d.jpgf018ed701ad0956eb4bde8ca6ba3035d.jpg day 2 of the lights at 30% 3 hours a day. Dosing 5 ml H2O2 every 12 hours, and changing my socks every 12 hours. Also UV on for 6 hours so far. About to do a 10% water change


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