+benroman Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 I was given a rodi system by my good buddy . I’m in leander the water coming out of the tap is 375 ppm the system is a 5 stage. The water is a well shared by 900 homes. No chloramines. I am using New carbon blocks and new pre filter. It Turns brown after 55 gallons or so. It is a 1 micron sediment filter Installed New membrane. Water pressure is about 45 psi at the rodi It Goes through di resin fast after 100 gallons it looks like it is getting brown.The best I can get is 7 ppm. Then when I test the barrel it is 71 ppm. What am I doing wrong and what do I need to buy to fix it. On a budget. Help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 I was given a rodi system by my good buddy . I’m in leander the water coming out of the tap is 375 ppm the system is a 5 stage. The water is a well shared by 900 homes. No chloramines. I am using New carbon blocks and new pre filter. It Turns brown after 55 gallons or so. It is a 1 micron sediment filter Installed New membrane. Water pressure is about 45 psi at the rodi It Goes through di resin fast after 100 gallons it looks like it is getting brown.The best I can get is 7 ppm. Then when I test the barrel it is 71 ppm. What am I doing wrong and what do I need to buy to fix it. On a budget. Help Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkInstall a flush valve to dump the water prior to going into your RO/DI and replace the DI mini cartridge with a full size one from BRS. That is what I would start with to diagnose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 For starters don't stress over it. I've been maintaining systems for decades with tapwater, RO and RO/DI and havn't seen any difference. (I have several TDS meters laying around someplace but I can't think of the last time I saw one.) As far as causing nuisance algae in this thread switching to tap water from filtered water the previous maintenance company was one of the steps I used to eliminate the nuisance algae that had taken over the system and killed off most of the corals. Algae issues are often more an issue with corals autotrophic feeding being disrupted by nutrient starvation. At 7 ppm your RO/DI filter is removing 98% of impurities but if you really want to get to zero go with a 2nd or bigger resin cartridge as suggested. Looking at your picture I'm guessing the 55 gallon barrel on the left is for freshwater and the one on the right is the salt mixing barrel? If this is correct the 70 ppm you're getting in your freshwater RO/DI, besides contamination from the air, could be from residual saltwater in your plumbing when you switch valves around. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 that style DI chamber is... iffy. I started out w/ that. problem is, its very difficult to back the DI resin tightly in those.. just a design flaw. then it naturally laws sideways... makes it that much easier for water to create channels and essentially bypass the resin. I just recently upgraded by system.. call me paranoid: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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