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Fraging

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I have had conflicted answers about this so I am hoping the community can help.

I was told that if a multi headed torch, if some of them started to look sickly (retreating and not doing the normal full extensions) that the "sickly" ones should be cut off immediately. 

On head is doing wonderful, however the other 2 are jut starting that look.

This is a separate tank from the 20 g that for some unknown reason they do not survive. 

Every single parameter is on par, and I added chemipure elete as per LFS instructions.

I have no clue how to frag, or tools that would be needed.

Is this true? Do they need to be cut off? I have done the redips for parasite infestation.

I guess I am going to have to accept the fact I will never be able to keep my most favorite coral.

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imho, depends on the size and accessibility really.  i have a colony thats the size of the upper half of a basketball.  i've seen a couple heads die off towards the back-bottom.  it would cause more harm to move it around and deal w/ that vs letting it die off.  if it starts spreading, then yea, you gotta do something.  

this comes in handy if you want to try and mitigate w/o removing:  http://amzn.com/B007A3MBJS

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Thanks for the reply and suggestion Isaac.

I will have to research it because i am not at all familiar with it. Plus it's only a 3 head piece.

What really strikes me as odd, I am at the understanding that bubblehead and torchs are from the same subspecies, my bubbleheads are thriving while the torch is just withering away like that.

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IME fragging the Euphyllia hasn't made a difference. Sometimes one head can be doing fine while another head immediately next to it can be closed up.  I've had the same result when I've fragged the closed head off and when I've left it on. Make sure all heads are closed as much as they go, remove the coral and dip it in Melafix, Coral Rx (they're pretty much the same) or iodine. These dips will treat bacterial infections and kill pests, but don't dip more than 3 minutes. Check the closed head for sand or other particles that could be irritating it. It helps to use turkey baster. If it's some sort of infection or pest, then you will have to dip multiple times at regular intervals. Good luck!

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Thanks Sascha,

I have only used the iodine dip, and did so as per my LFS advice.

I dip anything new and quarantine tank long before it foes into my main tank.

I am unsure if the weekly dose in the main tank does anything for pest control or if it's for nutrients, but reccomend dose 1x week.

Another feature that aqdiary app has is a reminder feature.

Possibly I need to be a little more clear on the "shrinking" part.

I get the new torch and the tentacles start thick as yarn and observe the shrink to thin as thread and die.

8 hours ago, Isaac said:

some questions... what are your water parameters?  what do you dose, feed, and how? what kind of flow are they in? what lights do you have? how far down are the corals from the water level?  do you have any algae blooms? do you have a health amount of coraline (its not directly related, but gives us an idea of the tank's maturity/stability)?  help us build your environment so we have a better idea on what to try.

 

47 minutes ago, Sascha D. said:

IME fragging the Euphyllia hasn't made a difference. Sometimes one head can be doing fine while another head immediately next to it can be closed up.  I've had the same result when I've fragged the closed head off and when I've left it on. Make sure all heads are closed as much as they go, remove the coral and dip it in Melafix, Coral Rx (they're pretty much the same) or iodine. These dips will treat bacterial infections and kill pests, but don't dip more than 3 minutes. Check the closed head for sand or other particles that could be irritating it. It helps to use turkey baster. If it's some sort of infection or pest, then you will have to dip multiple times at regular intervals. Good luck!

 

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Iodine is the oldest dip in the hobby, the hardest dip to use and more stressful on the corals than other dips readily available today, but treats almost everything. Twenty years ago the hobby wasn't as mainstream as it is today and we used what we could. Near everything was done DIY out of necessity instead of novelty like it is today. Part of the reason I suggested dipping is because Euphyllias, bubble corals, and brains are known to get bacterial and fungal infections. How long did you dip your coral? What water did you use to dip the coral?

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I do weekly water changes.

Only as much as needed to rid surface debris, so around 1/4th weekly. 

Salinity 1.25 constant. I always check the new water parameters before use to mirror my main tank as close as possible.

PH 8.3- 8.2

Ammonia 0

Calcium 450

KH 8

Nitrate 0

Nitrite 0

KH 8

PO4 0

In my sump tank a protien skimmer rated for a 40 gal tank, hob filter for a 70 gallon tank, mine is only a 20 long, that green mass algae chieo (sp) heater and return.

The tank is not drilled so I use a HOB thing for the intake drain into my sump.

Like I said every other piece of coral are flourishing from my candycanes, acordia mushrooms, regular mushrooms, 2 medium sized green tipped toadstools and many regular toadstools. A few of my mushrooms have propagated and 8 to 10 pieces from the regular toadstools.

I have heard this before about my lighting, unfortunatly being on a limited income, there is no possibly way to spend $250 to $300 on that Chineseblack box. 

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Sascha,

 I used about 15 to 20 drops, not so dark that I can't see if anything falls off.

 I use water from my main tank and I usually let it sit 15 to 20 minutes and then into the quarantine tank.

 My quarantine tank only contains just the basics a heater a cheap power head and and even much worse light. It is also bare bottom.

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same flow/lighting for both?
Yes, they were approximately 3 to 4 inches from each other. Same movements on both as well.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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If the torch is in the same tank with the leathers and mushrooms doing well, then it's probably not the lighting or the nutrients. The dip concentration sounds fine. I only dip my corals between 3-5 minutes because I've had bad luck with extended dips. I did a quick web search and other people dip their LPS for 20 minutes, so it's probably not the length. Nothing stands out to me based on the information you've provided, but maybe someone else can think of something. Is it possible that the receding heads were stung?

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