Sascha D. Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Hi Everyone! The stand that I purchased from the manufacturer when I bought my aquarium has poor ventilation and I need some advice on how to modify it. The aquarium is 96x30x25. I had painted the inside of the stand with marine paint to inhibit mold, but after two years it's starting to grow a bit. I would like to cut part of the back wall out like a normal aquarium stand, but I'm concerned that the wood sheeting is structural. The framing is made from 1x2" and the center brace and header are made from 2x6". Installing a fan is another options, but I would like to avoid adding more equipment that makes noise Is it safe to use a jig or circular saw to cut out part of the back wall? If not, could I reinforce the framing to allow for an open back? Can I make the modifications while the tank is running or do I have to take it down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Hi Everyone! The stand that I purchased from the manufacturer when I bought my aquarium has poor ventilation and I need some advice on how to modify it. The aquarium is 96x30x25. I had painted the inside of the stand with marine paint to inhibit mold, but after two years it's starting to grow a bit. I would like to cut part of the back wall out like a normal aquarium stand, but I'm concerned that the wood sheeting is structural. The framing is made from 1x2" and the center brace and header are made from 2x6". Installing a fan is another options, but I would like to avoid adding more equipment that makes noise Is it safe to use a jig or circular saw to cut out part of the back wall? If not, could I reinforce the framing to allow for an open back? Can I make the modifications while the tank is running or do I have to take it down?I'd go the easy route and cut a couple of holes on each end. Put two computer fans on one end and vent covers on the other.Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 1 minute ago, Jimbo662 said: I'd go the easy route and cut a couple of holes on each end. Put two computer fans on one end and vent covers on the other. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Two fans blowing into the stand on one side and two vent holes on the other side? Do you think they would have to run constantly? I've always had an open stand and never ran into this issue before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Two fans blowing into the stand on one side and two vent holes on the other side? Do you think they would have to run constantly? I've always had an open stand and never ran into this issue before. Yeah, you could probably run them periodically throughout the day.Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Assuming your sump doesn't cover the entire floor and that the stand doesn't sit flat on the floor, you can also drill a hole to vent down. If not, keep in mind that the plywood sides may provide structural support from racking (twisting), but you can still drill fan holes in them without significantly affecting their strength. Just don't put the holes too close together or make them too large (3" holes about a foot apart should be fine). You can drill with everything in place if you go slowly and don't cause too much overall shaking. The 1x2s are holding the majority of the weight. With the one end already open, your best bet would be to cut a hole on the opposite end and have a fan blow through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Assuming your sump doesn't cover the entire floor and that the stand doesn't sit flat on the floor, you can also drill a hole to vent down. If not, keep in mind that the plywood sides may provide structural support from racking (twisting), but you can still drill fan holes in them without significantly affecting their strength. Just don't put the holes too close together or make them too large (3" holes about a foot apart should be fine). You can drill with everything in place if you go slowly and don't cause too much overall shaking. The 1x2s are holding the majority of the weight. With the one end already open, your best bet would be to cut a hole on the opposite end and have a fan blow through.It does sit flat on the floor and the 100g sump plus 20g reservoir takes up 90% of the space. I'll try and get an updated picture when I get home. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 31 minutes ago, Sascha D. said: It does sit flat on the floor and the 100g sump plus 20g reservoir takes up 90% of the space. I'll try and get an updated picture when I get home. Sounds like holes on each end for a cross current would be best. Place the holes above sump level for best flow. If you have a thermometer in the sump you can have your controller turn the fans on/off based on temperature, or you can just do it periodically throughout the day. The biggest issue you'll notice having the extra holes is that sump noise will now have a way to exit the stand. You'll hear your overflow, return pump, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Sounds like holes on each end for a cross current would be best. Place the holes above sump level for best flow. If you have a thermometer in the sump you can have your controller turn the fans on/off based on temperature, or you can just do it periodically throughout the day. The biggest issue you'll notice having the extra holes is that sump noise will now have a way to exit the stand. You'll hear your overflow, return pump, etc. Here's a current picture of what it looks like today. I've removed the calcium reactor, media reactor and bp reactor so it looks a lot more spacious. Haha! I have 6 holes drilled on the right and 4 drilled on the left. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 you really only need one fan pulling air out, air will come in around the doors and around the plumbing. (i only have one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 On 12/2/2017 at 10:57 PM, Isaac said: you really only need one fan pulling air out, air will come in around the doors and around the plumbing. (i only have one) Add a fan to the back of the stand blowing out like a computer tower? The stand is 8'. Do you think that it will pull enough air to vent the whole area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 mine is 6ft, back is open, but against the wall, probably 1/2", then the doors dont seal. the single fan reduces the humidity enough. the fan is on the "electrical" side of the stand, the refugium is on the otehr side... once you create a negative pressure zone on one side, the air mixes in from the other side. its not completely "active" cooling for the whole stand, but you really only need to make sure the electrical and stuff isnt super humid for longevity. the main goal is humidity reduction, not temperature reduction (although they will correlate) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrZ2u Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Just from the pictures I would say that the plywood skin is very much structural so I would not cut the back out. I would mount a computer case fan right by the electronics pulling air IN and across them (also handy to power it there . This keeps moisture out of the fan and the air flow around the electrics which should mitigate condensation on them as a bonus. I would have an exit vent on the other side diagonally across put parallel to the fan so that air has a straight line to flow vs having to make a turn as it would through the back wall. Path of least resistance and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocks Reef Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 Look into AV cabinet fans. Google them. Look SO much better than a computer fan, super quiet and pull tons of air Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocks Reef Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 AC Infinity AIRPLATE S7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Speed Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets Look these up, this is what I am ordering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 11 hours ago, Rocks Reef said: AC Infinity AIRPLATE S7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Speed Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets Look these up, this is what I am ordering I use AC Infiniti on my cabinet and have been very pleased Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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