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Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +


Dogfish

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Thanks Isaac.

I don't know much about low voltage stuff. The Kessils come with 19v / 4.7 amp bricks. The Eyeboot is 36v / 11.2 amp, with what looks like 3 sets of output connections. I need to connect 4  Kessils. I don't want to overwork the power supply and cause a heat issue. What would you recomend? 

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So, i couldnt find any 19v regulated power supplies... but I did find this combo that would work. 

Math:  [email protected] = 89.3watts x4 = 357   ( http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Amp_to_Watt_Calculator.htm )

Items:
2x http://amzn.com/B019OOTL7A   24vDC 8A (200w) $17.99
4x http://amzn.com/B01H97ETVM  24v to 19v stepdown regulator (95w) $16.99
grand total for all 4: $103.94

Then compare it to just having backup bricks:  http://amzn.com/B01KLLSNJ2  $13.66  or $54.64 for 4.

so, for high output 19v, its actually better to stick w/ the bricks, since backups are cheap and quick to get.  any 90+w 19v laptop power supply will work!  hell, discount electronics!  maybe your power supply holding box just needs a fan or two?

 

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21 minutes ago, Isaac said:

So, i couldnt find any 19v regulated power supplies... but I did find this combo that would work. 

Math:  [email protected] = 89.3watts x4 = 357   ( http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Amp_to_Watt_Calculator.htm )

Items:
2x http://amzn.com/B019OOTL7A   24vDC 8A (200w) $17.99
4x http://amzn.com/B01H97ETVM  24v to 19v stepdown regulator (95w) $16.99
grand total for all 4: $103.94

Then compare it to just having backup bricks:  http://amzn.com/B01KLLSNJ2  $13.66  or $54.64 for 4.

so, for high output 19v, its actually better to stick w/ the bricks, since backups are cheap and quick to get.  any 90+w 19v laptop power supply will work!  hell, discount electronics!  maybe your power supply holding box just needs a fan or two?

 

Thanks,

Another question. I have a bunch of USB 2.0 cables. Can I use them for the the Aqua Bus on my Neptune Systems or do I need their over priced cables that are 2 long or 2 short?

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2 minutes ago, Dogfish said:

Thanks,

Another question. I have a bunch of USB 2.0 cables. Can I use them for the the Aqua Bus on my Neptune Systems or do I need their over priced cables that are 2 long or 2 short?

those are standard male/male cables.  check monoprice/amazon.  alternatively, you can get a gender changer and use an old one. 

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Just now, Dogfish said:

Mine are std Male / Male . They should work  if less than 15' ?

yup.. longer you get, more chance of interference tho.  try and keep them away from 120v power cords.   just like in home theater world... one side of the cabinet AC, one side DC/video.

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3 minutes ago, Isaac said:

yup.. longer you get, more chance of interference tho.  try and keep them away from 120v power cords.   just like in home theater world... one side of the cabinet AC, one side DC/video.

Thanks,

Now if I can just figure out how to to power some USB computer fans I have laying around. I don't think the Aqua Bus has power. More cables errrrrr.

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13 minutes ago, Isaac said:

I use these alot:  http://ebay.to/2eGXMDw

allows me to control crap w/ the varspeed ports.  i have a usb fan wired through it... so it only turns on for 15mins every hour...more at night.... jut as an example.  cheap/sturdy relay using varports :)

Good idea. Actually that reminds me, I have a bunch of Halloween prop controllers. I will have to find that box.

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I hate putting holes in pipes so I found a solution to getting water to my RO/DI unit without a saddle clamp. I did not have anyway to use a normal hose "Y"  like you would use at the washing machine connection. You need these Ace Hardware part numbers if you have 3/8 water lines from the wall shut off to your faucet.

Add -a-Tee 3/8 - 3/8 - 1/4 #4308995 

Compression Sleeve 1/4 Delrin #41284

Compression Insert 1/4 Brass #41288 (you need this to keep the 1/4 plastic tube from collapsing)

Compression Nut 1/4 Brass # 41222

RO_Waterline1.jpg

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Wired up the lighting  brick box. Fan on the bottom left pulls air in then out the top right. Decided not to mount it in the wall. Better air flow outside the wall. Weld-On #40 showed up today, Wooo Hooo. Time to put the sump together.

I_Light_Brick_Box2.jpg

I_Light_Brick_Box3.jpg

K_Weld-On#40.jpg

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Started on the sump. Making sure the sides are at a right angle to the back. Those 90 degree vice clamps are nice. I cut out channels in the backing paper so I could rough up the smooth surface for a better bond and not sand outside the glue lines. Before apply the solvent I peeled back more of the paper. Managed to glue in a few baffles. Waiting for glue to dry and set is like watching paint dry or waiting for water to boil.

L_Sump5.jpg

L_Sump2.jpg

L_Sump1.jpg

L_Sump6.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sump is almost done. Needs a few more days to cure,  add water and hope that flex seal is not needed. Nothing fancy. Water will enter into the chamber back right, overflow into the filter socks then out into the middle chamber. It will be full of rock for some added bacterial filtration. That chamber has a bulkhead for the pump to the skimmer. The skimmer will also return water to the same chamber. Then over the hump and thru the spaghetti mat ending up on the far left.  From there it will be pumped back to the tank and reactors. There will also be a small pump in that chamber to pump water out when needed for water changes. Will add some bracing across the top back and front and find some glass pieces to use as covers once I have all the plumbing dry fitted. (grammar is prob not correct ?)

M_sump1.jpg

M_sump4.jpg

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I really like the sump design.  If you are going to run socks you might consider making/buying some silencers.  I really like the ones I got from Geo's reef, and they work fine with the 4" socks (which looks like what you have there)

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42 minutes ago, jolt said:

I really like the sump design.  If you are going to run socks you might consider making/buying some silencers.  I really like the ones I got from Geo's reef, and they work fine with the 4" socks (which looks like what you have there)

So those things fit inside the sock and center piece is to make them easy to pull out?

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31 minutes ago, Dogfish said:

So those things fit inside the sock and center piece is to make them easy to pull out?

Correct.  The little holes are countersunk too, which help the silencing aspect I believe

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1 minute ago, jolt said:

Correct.  The little holes are countersunk too, which help the silencing aspect I believe

Kewl  I saved the cutouts from the holes I drilled out. I will bevel them so they fit inside the sock top and try to drill some evenly spaced holes.  Maybe a threaded screw in the center for a handle. Geo's on the cheap....

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  • 2 weeks later...

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