Chris_ATX Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 So I'm going to be receiving a used Spectrapure 4 stage RO/DI and will need to replace the filters and membrane. I live in Pflugerville but still get my water from Austin. What filters would you suggest I replace these with? Also are there any upgrades I should do now? Thanks for all the help. This is the unit http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-SYSTEMS/MaxPureMPDI-90-GPD-RODI-System Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrZ2u Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Are you sure the membrane needs to be replaced? If so marine depot has them and I dont think you need to get the much more expensive "spectrapure" over their branded one. I'd call them and check to be sure. They have all the rest as well and free shipping on everything. I'd check your DI filter and see if its the kind that can be refilled. If so save some coin and do that. I believe BRS has about the same prices and free shipping as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_ATX Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Is there a way to check the membrane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Is there a way to check the membrane?Other than how much tds it takes out... idk.If you don't know how old it is... I'd start fresh, but that's me.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_ATX Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 1 minute ago, Juiceman said: Other than how much tds it takes out... idk. If you don't know how old it is... I'd start fresh, but that's me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeah I just figured start fresh on all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 theres diff options: stages 1-3: http://amzn.to/2krlIwI or stages 1-3: http://amzn.to/2krlSEg extra sediments: http://amzn.to/2krhG7C RO membranes: http://amzn.to/2krmlGw http://amzn.to/2kra3Ov auto valve (cheap enough to keep an extra!!) http://amzn.to/2kra8BN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_ATX Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 21 hours ago, Isaac said: theres diff options: stages 1-3: http://amzn.to/2krlIwI or stages 1-3: http://amzn.to/2krlSEg extra sediments: http://amzn.to/2krhG7C RO membranes: http://amzn.to/2krmlGw http://amzn.to/2kra3Ov auto valve (cheap enough to keep an extra!!) http://amzn.to/2kra8BN Isaac so you don't think there is any reason to replace with the spectrapure band filters? Are these the ones you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 filters are filters. the only issues you need to watch out for are the RO membrane. normally everyone says only buy DOW membranes, but i've had pretty good luck with CSMs. If they last a year, its worth it. I also have a backup set of every stage just in case. yes, these are the ones I use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Home improvement stores have replacement filters and membranes also. A TDS meter is probably the best way to test a membrane but testing for nitrates before and after should show a big difference also. One argument to replace membranes every couple years is to prevent bacterial films from getting established inside the membrane and filter housings. A good indicator of this is if the RO has nay oder or smell to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gig 'em @ NDstructible Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 I would recommend starting with fresh filters because you don't know what has gone through the current used filters or how spent they are. When it comes to the water the fish will leave in, it's not worth the risk to go cheap. It looks like the Spectrapure unit has two filter blocks and then a DI in the third canister. For Pflugerville I would not recommend this, unless you plan to replace the filters pretty often. I live right on the other side of I-35 from Pville and with my water I like to have 3 filter blocks (sediment, 5 micron, and 1 micron) and then a dual DI unit after that. You can probably take out the DI from the third canister and replace it with another filter block and then add a DI canister(s) after the RO unit. IMO that's the best and safest way to continuously filter water without worrying about contaminants getting through after a couple weeks/months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrZ2u Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 The only reason for the filters before the membrane are to prolong its life. The sediment is obvious, sediment clogs things up. 1 micron bulk filters can be sub $2 easy, I buy them 50 at a time for like $1.50 each to filter my home brew. Carbon is only to remove the chlorine/chloramine since it can shorten the life of the membrane. Carbon can be the refill type which saves money as well. Contact time is the issue with it and why there are two on occasion. Pflugerville water is hard for sure but has no more or less sediment/chlorine than any other in the area for the most part. How much water a week will you be making? Ultimately this will determine how frequently you need to change the elements, Do you have a softener? If not then you probably should for other reasons. If so you should put a 20in carbon filter in front of it for the same reason you have one in the RO/DI unit. Lengthens the resin life. Then you have 5 microns of sediment filter before you put a drop in the RO/DI unit so you can start with 1 micron there and a single carbon will be all you need. Bonus is now you have bottled water quality out of every tap for you to enjoy. I change mine annually and its like $36 give or take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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