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Help with stand


avenger5b3

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Hi, I'm new member here. I'm having a problem with my diy stand moving side to side when I use my mp10 on short pulse mode. The tank is sitting on carpet floor. How do I solve this problem ?[emoji28]

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82eea0b72721fca479a5b9189db23372.jpg

pic of the the stand

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Hi, I'm new member here. I'm having a problem with my diy stand moving side to side when I use my mp10 on short pulse mode. The tank is sitting on carpet floor. How do I solve this problem ?[emoji28]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

82eea0b72721fca479a5b9189db23372.jpg

pic of the the stand

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

020cbadc4a40db08dddd15040f02a5b1.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'd say you should double up the vertical bracing and run screws into the doubled up vertical bracing from the verticals you already have. The "King of DIY" sells an e-book that tells how to make a stand that is braced really well and shouldn't flex or move at all.... unless you try to park a Sherman Tank on it or something.

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This may be a silly question, but are all the screws tight and all the wood joints flush? Or are there any gaps in the wood where the screws are from an uneven cut? I can imagine some wiggling if the space between two 2x4's isn't sitting evenly. It doesn't look like you used pocket screws and from the picture the joints seem to have some space in there.

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You don't need more framing, the 2x4s you have are more than sufficient to support the weight your're talking about (overkill already, actually). A skin or diagonal braces will stop the movement you're talking about. If you put a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood sheet on even one side (attached with nails, screws, or adhesive to the top/bottom/side frames you'll see that movement basically stop.

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Thanks for the advice guys I'll check for everything u guys suggested. Mike I was also wondering if adding plywood skin would solve it just like u suggested.

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Definitely. Don't underestimate the strength of wood glue either. Undo those screws and brush in some wood glue (not Elmers) at every joint and then tighten and you'll never get that thing apart. But the skin will give you resistance to "racking". http://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/racking-8522

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You don't need more framing, the 2x4s you have are more than sufficient to support the weight your're talking about (overkill already, actually). A skin or diagonal braces will stop the movement you're talking about. If you put a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood sheet on even one side (attached with nails, screws, or adhesive to the top/bottom/side frames you'll see that movement basically stop.

This is what I was going to suggest too.
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