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BornToHula's 240 Gallon Build


BornToHula

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He looks big enough that he may accidentally damage the coral, but I again don't think it's intentionally trying to eat your acro. I probably should have documented our nasty acro-eating crab when it happened. Would have been useful for others to see what that looked like. I actually had to stab him with tweezers to get him out. Lil stinker was running from 1 acro to the next beating up on them.

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He looks big enough that he may accidentally damage the coral, but I again don't think it's intentionally trying to eat your acro. I probably should have documented our nasty acro-eating crab when it happened. Would have been useful for others to see what that looked like. I actually had to stab him with tweezers to get him out. Lil stinker was running from 1 acro to the next beating up on them.

I agree, he wasn't actively eating it. I was surprised that he was even picking at it after being a model citizen for the past 2 years. I am more worried that he may not be getting enough to eat and is "trying" new things.

Last year I had a little acro eating crab that came in on a maricultured piece that took out about 2 inches overnight. I had to stab mine with a toothpick to get him off. The emerald crab is no danger at all compared to this bugger.

olRJe98.jpg

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I decided it was time to bite the bullet and get a par meter. I figure since I have invested so much in the lights and coral frags, it is pretty easy to justify the cost of a par meter to identify when I need to change out the T5 bulbs and ensure the corals are getting the light they need.

While doing research I looked at the following 3 par meters:

Apogee SQ-520

Pros: Designed to accurately read blue light, most popular hobby grade brand

Cons: Most expensive

Apex Par Monitoring kit

Pros: Comes hidden in some fake live rock so you can monitor par long term

Con: Comes with the last gen apogee meter

Seneye

Pros: Cost, very accurate when compared to $2,000+ equipment (see Bulk Reef's videos), option to use it as an ammonia monitor

Cons: Doesn't seem to be very popular, hard to find reviews from hobbyist on the par meter

It really came down between the Apogee and Seneye. During my research I watched Bulk Reef's videos where they compared the readings from their high-end par meter to the Seneye and the results were almost identical. The accuracy plus the low price of the Seneye convinced me to go with it.

The Seneye should be coming in this week, I'll be sure to post how it works and what I think of it.

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Finally got the Seneye up and running. For some reason its not compatible with a Surface Pro 3, I had to bring out a 10 year old laptop that it works fine on.

While playing around with the meter, I noticed there is a significant difference in PAR based on if the Gyres are running or not. I think the surface of the water getting choppy when the Gyre is running causes the difference. I took these readings with it running which is why there are some pretty big ranges.

I also need to make some kind of holder for the Seneye. Its very unwieldy to hold it in the tank and try not to block any of the light. I actually broke a big piece of my digitata off trying to get a reading doh.gif

From what I've tested so far the absolute minimum par is 275 at the bottom of the tank. The top portions reach up to the 700's when the Gyre isn't running too hard. The LEDs are set to 70% at peak and are at peak for 6 hours with a 2 hour ramp up and ramp down before and after. The T5 are on for 8 hours. The readings were taken at peak light time.

CHEZ67r.jpg

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That's some pretty good par there sir. If your acros look light to you on the top of the rocks, you might want to turn it down a bit.

It's very similar numbers I have in my tank except I've added T5s since then so I'm curious what it is at now.

Either way, looks like lighting won't be an issue for you.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wow! I have a Sicce Synchra 12.0 return pump just sitting around if you need something to hold you over.

Thanks for the offer. I have a Lifegard pump that will get me through the weekend if I can't get the Vectra running again tonight. I think its the build up on the shaft again so once I clean it, it should be good for the weekend.

Yikes. That looks messy. At least the tank got a skimmate treat.

I like how you put the float valves in the dosing container. I may do something similar on mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I caught it before the skimmate bubbled out of the sump, so the mess wasn't too bad. Thanks, the float valves work good so far.

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You should move a float valve to your sump and program it to turn off the skimmer when it gets triggered.

I've been planning on doing that for awhile, just haven't gotten around to doing it. I need to make a bracket for the float valve. Maybe I can come MacGyver a solution for this weekend.

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So the issue is heat from the build up on the pump shaft again. The issue has to be a bad o-ring, so I will replace that. Then the Vectra will be the backup to the Jabao laugh.pnglaugh.png

What an interesting world we live in when the Vectra is the backup to the Jaebo. [emoji23]
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Not tank build related, but with building our new house I wanted some decorations to go in the office that will have the fish tanks.

I tested this design and style out and think it turned out pretty good. I want to do one for each fish I have. I'll need to invest in a scroll saw, cutting the smaller parts on the band saw was a little dicey!

qgRKz5n.jpg?1

lw4Ezri.jpg?1

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Creepy without an eye for now but very cool man! That's some talent. Can I get a tassled filefish?

Thanks. I need to get a black paint pen for the eye, a sharpie wouldn't work. And no, no tassled filefish! Unlike your band saw, mine will defiantly cut fingers! grin.pnggrin.png

That is very cool.

Thanks!

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  • 3 months later...

Wow time flies! Thought I would do a much needed update.  

Our new home is nearing completion, we are scheduled to close on 3/15.  It'll have a semi fish room behind the tank with a utility sink, water source/drain for the RODI filter, and separate drain for saltwater that ties into the water softener drain.  We are beyond excited to move!

Nn60CoD.jpg

 

The tank is doing okay. I still have a big issue with the golden/clear algae, to which I am admitting defeat for the time being.  I'm almost certain the issue is Chrysophyta, which seems to be a more uncommon problem. There are a few threads of reef2reef about it that I have been following but so far no consensus on how to get rid of it yet from what I can tell.

  Here is a video of it, I only showed what grows on the glass, but its on the rock too.

These pics were taken at 900x with a children's microscope. The colors and focus were impossible to get correct, but I guess its better than nothing.

AxFeYO0.jpg J70ZzvG.jpg nQmI3j0.jpg

 

The conclusion so far is the algae doesn't care about nutrients.  I reduced and maintained nitrate and phosphate to undetectable levels for over two months with no reduction.  The side effect of this is I lost several corals to the low nutrients and the ones that survived had a major reduction in color.

The lights out didn't seem to have an impact either.  I didn't black out the tank with cardboard on the sides though, so I may try this again.

After the tank move I plan on:

  • Set up refugium with macro algae
  • Add some actual live rock to get more bio-diversity into the tank
  • Possibly: dose hydrogen peroxide and/or add UV filter
  • Add a lot more fish and corals to the tank! :thumbsup:

 

 

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