+KimP Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 This may prove to be one of the slowest builds in history, but here's it goes!! We bought this house in Dec (thanks JeeperTy) and right away I noticed this arch, visible from all of downstairs and some of upstairs, that is screaming "please put a tank here!!!". The opening is 50" wide and the current plan is to leave the wall mostly alone, and build the stand around it. In this pic you can see there is a little divider wall and I want this side of the stand to come out even with that. So that limits me to 11" on each side and a 30" x 48" tank. Yesterday I managed to get a hole cut in the wall to peek in and see how it's constructed, and where any wires are located. Here goes nothing!! And here's what I found top bottom It's constructed just how I expected. I was able to put that rectangle right back into place to keep curious kiddos out. I'm glad that part worked out! Timfish handled the move of my 90gal from the old house and while he was here I enlisted his help with this new build. A couple things we talked about are: having an external overflow, closed loop for circulation, leaving the wall studs as-is (figure something out with that wire) and having a sump possibly in 2 or 3 parts and have it run in between the studs, having drywall on the green side so it looks just like it was part of the house all along, and on the kitchen side having the stand be skinned in cabinetry that matches the kitchen. It'd be nice to have a section separate for the controller and other electronics. I plan on only accessing the tank on the tile floor side, but I plan on having access on the hardwood floor side too, just in case it's needed. Trying to think of ways to do that with drywall. Nothing is set in stone yet, but I'd like to get the tank ordered asap. Now that we know what the wall looks like, we can plan where any holes might go, and I can get the tank ordered and drilled. The lights will hang from the arch and if I can do it, I'd like to have the wires for the lights go strait into the wall and run down inside the wall. Tim mentioned using a tray that the lights would poke down out of to keep things really clean looking vs the bar they hang from now. That's about it for now! I'll list the equipment I have and general plans for the tank later. Everything in my current tank will transfer. Thanks in advance for any input. I'll need lots of advice on this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Equipment list that may or may not be used on the tank, from the top down: 4 a360n Kessils, 2 a360w Kessil Hopefully there won't be any powerheads, but I have a couple big controllable Tunze's that I'd use if needed Closed loop with a Waveline DC 10000 II for variable speed flow controlled by the Apex 2 return pumps, mag 5s, one of which has a manifold that will run: Chemipure Blue possibly biopellets in the future if needed Skimmer - Tunze ComlineDOC 9006 and am pretty happy with it. I'll stick with this one for now even though it's probably undersized. Bubble Magus 3-channel dosing pump - dosing alk and phytoplankton Ultralife UV 16W - may use if needed Tunze ATO 12" custom spectrum BML strip used to light the sump. Currently it's lit 24/7 Heater - Controlled by the Apex. Apex Jr to control the whole thing with temp & pH probe. 2 Penn-Plax Silent Air B11 battery operated back-up air pumps. 1 for tank 1 for sump I think that's about it! I'll update as things change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Reserved for Oogling 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 That tank is going to be AWESOME! Can't wait to see the progress of this build. I expect this to be ready for the April meeting at your house Kim! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 That tank is going to be AWESOME! Can't wait to see the progress of this build. I expect this to be ready for the April meeting at your house Kim! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Ha! Says the guy with no kids yet, lol! Really though, I'm going to give it my best shot. It'd be nice to have the stand framed out by then at least, if not the tank here too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Wow! I was totally kidding but if you get that far already, that's amazing! Does a giant 29-year old wife count as a kid? Because I cooked dinner for her last night, tucked her into to bed, and gave her lunch money today for school. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 You better be careful calling your wife giant... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishypets Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 I called my wife "Giant" one time and couldn't see for a few weeks until the swelling went way down. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Nice Kim, look forward to seeing your progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 I just read your other thread, that location looks awesome. If it was me, I would lose the studs that are in wall in the place, reroute the electrical, put a 2x4 header in place for now, you can easily add a stud(s) back in when you move. I think I would also go with a steal frame for the tank support to maximize the space for sum and equipment. As others stated I think the biggest issue will be the heat and moisture in the sump area, few different solutions here, cheap would be simple venting, micro fans etc., or venting outside or into some existing exhaust venting in the wall, definitely more work/expense. You cal still easily use sheet rock paint and cabinet doors to finish it and have it look like it is just part of the wall. This should be a VERY cool build! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Kim and I have talked about ventilation and it actually should be pretty easy to get very good air flow. On the Dinning room side there will be a space about 9" x 11" from the end of the tank to the wall delineating the archway to another hallway. Part of this will be for an external overflow (DAS will build a tank with it) and there will be some kind of shallow shelf or something to hide it but there should be ample room for a plenum to vent air. This should also let Kim hide all the wiring for her Kessils but still have realatively easy access should she need to mess with it. On the kitchen side with three cabinet doors just a 1/4" gap around each door would give us 72 sq in for airflow if the doors are 16" x 32". Like Kim pointed out one option will be to build an internal wall where one of the studs are located so the elecrtical would be pretty well protected from splash and humidity of the sump (much like Mike Frame's stand for those of you've who've seen his setup). Kim, the inside picture looking up, is that where the electrical goes into the wall or is that opening between the studs next to the outlet? And what's the inside measurement between the sides? Looking at the pictures it looks like the studs are edge to edge so the inside measuremnt should be 7". I bet we can get some forensics and track down the owner of that boot print too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 i'm not sure how it would look, exactly. but for the drywall side doors you could use touch latches (push latches? not sure what everyone calls them). maybe put some trim around it to cover the gap. you can make one door for each kid and then they'd have little "framed" art places. keep your refrigerator clean for pizza coupons, take out menus, and those handy gimme magnets that tell you how to convert between teaspoons and cups. this'll be fun. you have some of the best build threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Wow going to be a great build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCAB Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I'm so jealous! Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Kim and I have talked about ventilation and it actually should be pretty easy to get very good air flow. On the Dinning room side there will be a space about 9" x 11" from the end of the tank to the wall delineating the archway to another hallway. Part of this will be for an external overflow (DAS will build a tank with it) and there will be some kind of shallow shelf or something to hide it but there should be ample room for a plenum to vent air. This should also let Kim hide all the wiring for her Kessils but still have realatively easy access should she need to mess with it. On the kitchen side with three cabinet doors just a 1/4" gap around each door would give us 72 sq in for airflow if the doors are 16" x 32". Like Kim pointed out one option will be to build an internal wall where one of the studs are located so the elecrtical would be pretty well protected from splash and humidity of the sump (much like Mike Frame's stand for those of you've who've seen his setup). Kim, the inside picture looking up, is that where the electrical goes into the wall or is that opening between the studs next to the outlet? And what's the inside measurement between the sides? Looking at the pictures it looks like the studs are edge to edge so the inside measuremnt should be 7". I bet we can get some forensics and track down the owner of that boot print too! I just measured the openings in between the studs, and it's 15", 15.5", 15" wide and 7" front to back. That wire leads from the other outlet, on the dining room side, to the outlet in middle of where I want the stand, on the wood floor side. I'm planning on moving this outlet that's in middle of the wall I'll be taking out, to the inside of the stand where all the electrical will be. I'll have it switched over to a gfi relay (I think that's what the electrician called it) since a dedicated circuit is nearly impossible in this location (and I don't feel it necessary). Edited March 9, 2014 by KimP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Getting back into that wall! I like it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Intriguing. Might I bring up; instead of tip-toeing around with that short wall, just cut it right out and put in exactly what you need? Go straight down from the existing opening. You know where the one wire is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Intriguing. Might I bring up; instead of tip-toeing around with that short wall, just cut it right out and put in exactly what you need? Go straight down from the existing opening. You know where the one wire is. This does seem to be the best choice, I just chicken out when thinking about how that might affect the wall structurally. I'm pretty confident at least part of it is load-bearing. I don't know too much about construction. I'm definitely considering cutting out those studs in the middle though. That seems safe enough and the tank stand should offer more structure to the wall in place of them. I need to learn more about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvrEnuf Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The center of that arch bears no load, and the doubled 2X4's (if not 2X6's) on either side can handle a lot more; feel free to remove te 2X4 studs. The only thing they support is the cap and trim making the window in the arch. Once that is done call the electrician back and have a double gang outlet installed where the sump will be and a sinlge gang in the top of the arch for lights. You may incur some drywall damage to get the outlet in the arch, and the electrician may ***** about it, I can get you a trustworthy referral if you need. From there your design can really get started and the kiddos are safe. If you want a built in appearance on one side and cabs on the other you can still do that, but at least this way you can do it with green board or better yet cement board and not have to worry about moisture. You can also do it over metal if you choose. In this manor when you move out you simply are leaving a slightly larger serving pass as you had, but now with storage! I'd be happy to do the demo for you if you like, that's about a 15 minute job from cut to clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The center of that arch bears no load, and the doubled 2X4's (if not 2X6's) on either side can handle a lot more; feel free to remove te 2X4 studs. The only thing they support is the cap and trim making the window in the arch. Yea, that was my thinking. Leave the two columns on either side of the arch. continuing the opening down should be safe. Also, from the looks of it, the current "shelf" is 2X4s laying flat rather than on end. "On end" provides much more support. All leads me to conclude the wall and arched window is for looks and not structural at all. Good for you as far as flexibilty. It would probably take me 45 minutes from cut to clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 The center of that arch bears no load, and the doubled 2X4's (if not 2X6's) on either side can handle a lot more; feel free to remove te 2X4 studs. The only thing they support is the cap and trim making the window in the arch. Once that is done call the electrician back and have a double gang outlet installed where the sump will be and a sinlge gang in the top of the arch for lights. You may incur some drywall damage to get the outlet in the arch, and the electrician may ***** about it, I can get you a trustworthy referral if you need. From there your design can really get started and the kiddos are safe. If you want a built in appearance on one side and cabs on the other you can still do that, but at least this way you can do it with green board or better yet cement board and not have to worry about moisture. You can also do it over metal if you choose. In this manor when you move out you simply are leaving a slightly larger serving pass as you had, but now with storage! I'd be happy to do the demo for you if you like, that's about a 15 minute job from cut to clean Thank you! I was hoping you'd see my post and comment. And I'm so glad I'll be able to just get all of that out of the way. The 2x4s are laying flat, so it makes sense they're just for holding up that ledge. Well that makes things a whole lot easier. I'll think about the idea of moving an outlet up into the arch. I have 4 kessils and each have a big power supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Also, I was planning on using something like cement board on the inside. Blocking moisture from getting into the wall won't be a problem, I'll just need to vent the sump for the sake of it not being so damp in the cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 I ordered the tank yesterday from Aquadome. 48"x30"x27"tall with an external overflow and 2 holes on the bottom for a closed loop. Should be pretty clean on the inside of the tank. I hope it gets built and shipped fast, it'd be awesome if I had it for the meeting! I also had looked into getting a stand from DSA to preserve the warranty on the tank but they want almost a grand for just a bare-bones structural stand. That's kind of a bummer. Really hard to even consider that as a option compared to what a 2x4 stand will cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Wow, that's amazing about the warranty. External overflows seem so cool. Congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Congrats Kim!!! I'm excited! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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