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? reseal 90 gallon standard


Mako

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Ok, I decided to reseal my standard 90 gallon, The question that I have is, Do I need to put new trim on?

Or can I just make it a rimless.....

I had to remove the front pane, so I can reseal front edges.

and going ahead and doing the inner seals while I have it torn down

Just in the final stages of cleaning off all the old silicone.

Thanks in advance for the info...

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I think you are going to find that you have leaking at both front bottom corners unless you tear the tank completely down and redo it. New silicone will NOT stick to cured silicone, so those inside seams (between the glass) will not bond with the older inside seams, and will form a weak spot. The only way to do it, and do it right, is to take the tank completely down, clean the glass, then rebuild the tank from scratch.

Sorry to be a downer, but I've seen other folks make the same mistake, with messy (and damp) consequences.

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Well after a little more looking I have found more seams that need to be done so that will probably be what I have to do,

Break the whole thing down,

But once I do that will I need new trim or will it be ok with out?

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I know people have taken trim off of tanks before. But I'm not sure if you would need to add euro bracing to do it safely. Rimless tanks always seem to be thicker then rimmed tanks, so my hunch is that the trim supports the glass.

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I'm assuming it's a normal AGA or Perfecto type, plastic trim with the cross brace. You have to trim a 90 unless you fabricate some sort of euro bracing or another type of cross brace. The trim itself isn't super important, although it might have some structural support for the corners, but any time there's a cross brace, it's there for structural reasons. You'd be amazed at how much a 75 or 90 will bow without the center brace. On small tanks like, sub 40 gallon it's usually ok, but not on a 4ft tank. Bottom trim is always required on these types of tanks.

A rimless 90 needs 1/2" glass.

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