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Starting a new 180 gallon tank and stand build


madsalt

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So I finally sold the two tanks I had and I am now ready to start my new tank and build my stand for it. I am going with an Aqueon 180 and will be building the stand for it.

I am goint to start this thread with questions about the stand.

Tank 72 1/2" x 24 1/2" x 24

Stand 72 3/4" x 24 3/4" x 30" tall

The stand will be a 2x4 stand with 1/4" plywood for the front, back and sides with 1/2" plywood for the bottom and top. I am going to use 1/2" plywood with additional 2x4's for support across the top, all plywood will be sealed for waterproofing. The bottom will basically be sealed and siliconed incase there is some kind of failure. There will doors on the front and sides for equipment removal and maintenance.

My biggest questions are this:

1. Do I need to use 4x4 posts on the corners or can I get away with 2x4s in an L shape. 4x4's affect the size of the sump that can be squeezed in there unless I am able to get away with no front center brace.

2. Do I need to have a center brace on the front or can I add support on the back, allowing me greater felxibility when accessing the front of the stand. Because I will have access from the sides adding the front center brace will not be that bad, it will just hinder how I build the doors.

I would like to have three doors on the front, one to the left for the small area where my supplies or ATO will be and then two door together for a large access area. If I do this I will place a 2x4 between the far left door and and the door next to it. So with bracing on the back and this 2x4 on the front would that be ok for front bracing.

These questions will greatly determine which design I go with.

Thanks for the initial thoughts on this.

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With that long of tank yeah you would need the center brace. Of course there are ways around that. For the back wall brace it like you suggested and for the front you can leave the center brace out but instead of a 2x4 going horizontal use a 2x6 or 2x8 across the top front to carry the weight of the tank. If it were me i would double stack 2 2x8 (just screw and glue them together) and use that for the top beam of stand. Just think of it as the roof of the house. When you have those Cathedral ceilings the center beam is usuall a 2x18 or whatever and that width of the board is to support the weight of the roof and the down force so that it won't sag in the center. Understand what i mean?

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I would go with 2x6 all the way around with two sandwiched together in the front for extra support. Just extra insurance and the boards aren't that much more than the quality 2x4. I'd say do it. So your having still having a brace in front for one of the doors right? You must have at least one in front for that long of a span. Think you mentioned you where still having three doors correct.

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There is a huge thread on RC about this, started by a guy named Rocket Engineer. Split the thread several times. Solid stands. I have one in my garage you can see tonight. He gives tons of advice in that thread.

Grab a six pack and start reading. :)

Don't know if it is cool to post that link here. Let me know if you want it and I cam PM it to you.

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There is a huge thread on RC about this, started by a guy named Rocket Engineer. Split the thread several times. Solid stands. I have one in my garage you can see tonight. He gives tons of advice in that thread.

Grab a six pack and start reading. :)

Don't know if it is cool to post that link here. Let me know if you want it and I cam PM it to you.

This is the thread I used to design my stand.

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once i get some free time i need to learn about construction lumber so i can start calculating loads for people on the forums.

i deal with metals mostly, so if anyone ever has any metal stand questions i can do that.

ok, so that didn't help the OP. based on a limited understanding of wood 2 2X8s across the front will probably be plenty without a center brace (strength wise). i am getting a deflection about 0.05" in the center. with rough numbers and a limited understanding of wood, it may be safer to think 0.1" of sag in the center. i am not sure what an acceptible deflection would be at the center of a 73" tank.

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So here is what I have do so far:

1. I went with 3/4" plywood, I had 1/2" already so picked up some 1/4" finished plywood and glued them together.

2. I went with a 2x4 frame with a center brace so that I would room to get inside, 2x6 or 2x8 would have closed the opening too much.

3. With the bracing in the front and back I decided that I did not need to double up the 2x4 header. I can add one if need be.

pic one is gluing of the plywood

pic two is great use of old salt buckets and water jugs for weight

pic three is the start of the frame

pic four is the frame with the top plywood on

pic five has the final braces for the back and the top

pic six is the stand turned upright

pic seven show 2x4 support across the joint so no weight is focused on piece of wood

pic eight is back with the top and bottom on

pic nine is the front with the top and bottom on

pic ten is a side view

pic eleven has the front 1/4 oak in place

I left 2 large openings for large doors giving the ability to get inside and work easily.

I will continue to add pics as I continue to build the stand

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I think it looks fine. The 2x4 across the front is not supporting the weight of the tank. The 4x4s that support the corners are taking the weight. This is the way I would build a steel frame. The 4x4s are touching the floor and tank. The 2x4s are even with the top of the 4x4s. Perfect. And not over built.

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I think it looks fine. The 2x4 across the front is not supporting the weight of the tank. The 4x4s that support the corners are taking the weight. This is the way I would build a steel frame. The 4x4s are touching the floor and tank. The 2x4s are even with the top of the 4x4s. Perfect. And not over built.

Can the bottom of the tank support itself when just supported in the four corners?

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Yes it can. But if that were the case level would be super important. But you could support a most tanks with just cinder blocks at the corners. But with that being said... Insurance and peace of mind go a long way. The 2x4s in this case are keeping the 4x4s in place (duh) but also maintaining a level surface all the way around the bottom of the tank. Which reduces possible fail points in the tank.

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My girlfriend is going to stain it. The front and side along with the trim work are all oak. We are using an antique walnut satin finish with red tones to it. I know oak with a walnut finish lol. We didn't want the classic oak color but we wanted to use oak so we think the walnut will look good.

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And consider this... A lot of stands only support the outside edge of a tank. Leaving the bottom glass the responsibility of holding the water back.

Supporting just the corners and just the edges is not the same thing. Yes, the glass is still supporting the water in both, but it does not react the same stress because of the way it is supported.

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My girlfriend is going to stain it. The front and side along with the trim work are all oak. We are using an antique walnut satin finish with red tones to it. I know oak with a walnut finish lol. We didn't want the classic oak color but we wanted to use oak so we think the walnut will look good.

Stand looks nice.

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Thanks Planeden, this is my first stab at building a tank stand. I still need to build the canopy but I imagine that will be a lot quicker and a lot less complex. I know it has its little imperfections here and there but I think it is going pretty good so far. I am anxious to get the sides put on and get the doors built.

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new pics added here is the stand with all the trim work in place. should have the doors and stain done tomorrow. I also got the new tank in :-) totally stoked to get this all together

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