Time for an upgrade - build thread of my new 226 Peninsula tank

[mFrame]

I thought some of you might be interested in seeing how running the (9) BML fixtures has affected my tank temperatures and PH over the last week.

The cutover to the BML fixtures happend on 2/15, and took about a day for me to get the timing schedule automated in my Apex unit. I'm also running the new lights a few hours a day less than the old fixture to acclimate, but you'll see some significant differences already.

With the (2)250w MH and (4)54w T5s, my low Temp was occurring in the morning around 10am each day. This was generally around the 74 -76 degree range. My peak would occur around 9pm when the lights would turn off, somewhere in the 77-79 degree range. This meant a daily change of approximately 3.5 degrees.

With the BMLS, starting on 2/18 with the regular schedule, you're seeing my low around 71.5 - 72 and my high around 72-73. This cuts the swing down to 1.5 degrees on the 18th, less than a degree on the 19th and 20th.

If you look at the PH graph readings (same date range as the Temps), you'll notice that when the temp was high in the tank, PH was high. Low Temps - Low PH. The size of the PH swing with the BMLs is about half of what it was with the Metal Halide/T5 fixture. (the stagger steps in the end of PH are due to a few hour window mid-day when I turn the BMLs off while the corals are adjusting.

I'll continue to monitor the progress, but thought I'd share.

[+brian.srock]

Cool info Mike. Its always good to have solid data for those on the fence with LEDs.

[victoly]

I'm not sure that the reduction in pH swing is a positive change per se. It seems to me that it could be interpreted as a reduction in the overall photosynthesis, which to me could be tied to less usable light making it through, OR reduced biologic activity from reduction in temperature. It's probably related to the mid-day cut, but we won't be able to make a full comparison until you have your photoperiod equalized. Cool data nonetheless!

[+olaggie01]

Are you planning on running your reef that cold all the time? Seems to me the MH/T5s added some necessary heat. I'm sure in the summer it will be a much different picture, but as it stands right now, the wattage that you will be saving by using the LEDs will be used in heaters.

[+Mlaw]

So how are you planning on getting into the tank? I'm interested in the concept but am worried that every time I need to get in a deal with something in the tank I will have to remove a bunch of the lights. I worry that something will happen to them. If you go long way with them I can hook them up on pulleys to raise and lower.

[mFrame]

So how are you planning on getting into the tank? I'm interested in the concept but am worried that every time I need to get in a deal with something in the tank I will have to remove a bunch of the lights. I worry that something will happen to them. If you go long way with them I can hook them up on pulleys to raise and lower.

It's been a year and a half now, I'll take some pictures and a video, moving them to work in the tank couldn't be easier, and the way I do it I actually still have light in the tank to see what I'm doing.

[+Mlaw]

Based on your recommendation (and my envy of your set up) as well as tank build constraints I'm going to end up doing basically the same thing. Is the aluminum plate necessary or could I mount all of the power supplies to the inside wall of the hood? There is plenty of room.

[mFrame]

Man, four years on and I haven't done a full tank shot, so thought I'd share!

I still haven't finished all of the wiring, and still haven't put in the rock tower for the anemones on the end. I'll be removing the anthelia and working on the nem tower soon, but wanted to get a good series of pics of the state of the tank post-hair algae cleanup.

And Mlaw - yes, if you have a hood you can certainly mount the led power supplies to it, but I don't have a hood and if I did I wouldn't want all of those exposed to moisture. Having them on the plate and outside the aquarium protects them and makes getting to them easier.

[FarmerTy]

That update was overdue sir!

Tank looks good! What's the beaming orangy-yellowey-reddish thing on the rock? [emoji6]

My favorite part of the update is that you answered a question Mlaw posted two years ago. [emoji4]

[mFrame]

That update was overdue sir!

Tank looks good! What's the beaming orangy-yellowey-reddish thing on the rock? [emoji6]

My favorite part of the update is that you answered a question Mlaw posted two years ago. [emoji4]

Long LONG overdue.

A colorado sunburst BTA.

Better late than never!

[mFrame]

I like to stretch out my updates, apparently.

Note to self, destroy Anthelia!

[Jimbo662]

wow...those are some huge leathers.

 

[mFrame]

1 hour ago, Jimbo662 said:

wow...those are some huge leathers.

 

Yeah, the green toadstool is actually due to be cut back, it has crowded out many neighbors.  These pics show the small side.

[RicordeaFreak]

Very nice tank you got going mFrame. +1 to what Jimbo said, those toadstools are huge. Do they cause you any problems when they shed? That bubble coral is awesome and those orange mushrooms have really grown in.

[victoly]

Letha

[JamesL]

Great looking tank!

[mFrame]

On 11/28/2017 at 4:33 PM, RicordeaFreak said:

Very nice tank you got going mFrame. +1 to what Jimbo said, those toadstools are huge. Do they cause you any problems when they shed? That bubble coral is awesome and those orange mushrooms have really grown in.

Thanks!  Excuse the dirty glass, just back from a trip but wanted to show the size of these things.

The  toadstools have never really shed if you mean like sliming.  Occassionally they'll go dormant for a few days and pull all their polyps in but then they come back bigger.  Here are pics from the other side, where the large one is against the glass.  It's about 18" wide and 14" or so tall, but if the rock to each side of it weren't there it would open up to about 26"+.  It started as a 2" frag from RichardL about 2 years ago and has gone nuts.  The pink toadstool drops babies all the time.  They really don't cause problems other than making everything crowded, except that the frags that the pink one drops have to be collected or they take root everywhere.

The bubble coral was literally dead during my green hair algae battle.  It is sitting on top of a Cerameco cave rock that was covered with GSP.  The GSP had overgrown the entire bubble coral structure leaving a lone tiny bubble smaller than a bb.  Tim cleaned the GSP off the bubble skeleton and down the Cerameco rock but I assumed it was dead.  Now it is not only back with a vengeance, but has taking its revenge almost entirely eradicating the GSP.  Now if I can only get it to attack Anthelia!

[Sascha D.]

On 5/2/2014 at 12:48 PM, mFrame said:

It's been a year and a half now, I'll take some pictures and a video, moving them to work in the tank couldn't be easier, and the way I do it I actually still have light in the tank to see what I'm doing.

Um, I didn't want to bring this up, but I've been waiting three years to see how you mounted the lights. Love the big DJ! 

[mFrame]

1 hour ago, Sascha D. said:

Um, I didn't want to bring this up, but I've been waiting three years to see how you mounted the lights. Love the big DJ! 

Page 2 of my build thread:

Power supplies are on this sheet with the black borders.  It has two hangers at the top and hangs between the wall and the end of the tank.

Top view:

Alternate top view.  The electrical conduit has been cut flush and painted black and the wiring doesn't stick up like that anymore.  

The aquarium top is basically just a wooden rectangle frame with notches cut for each fixture to rest on.  It has an aluminum L bracket all the way around for strength and to support the lights. 

 

I then added trim around the edges and painted it black.  There is no "top", it's completely open, which allows me to easily mount frags, feed, etc.

 

[Sascha D.]

Oh nice! I thought you had reworked the lighting since you posted that after you took those pictures. It's a really clever idea. Do you ever burn your arms when you reach into the tank? I remember people saying the BML's ran pretty hot. 

[mFrame]

9 minutes ago, Sascha D. said:

Oh nice! I thought you had reworked the lighting since you posted that after you took those pictures. It's a really clever idea. Do you ever burn your arms when you reach into the tank? I remember people saying the BML's ran pretty hot. 

There have been a few tweaks, I'll take some updated pics once I clean my glass.

Actually, no, I haven't burned myself other than an odd time or two.  There is about a 6" gap between lights, and I have them attached at one end so they swing away when I need to work in a larger area.  I'll get a pic doing that as well.

[ckyuv]

You know, you have had since Monday to clean the glass. It's time to see how it's looking now 

[+KimP]

On 12/3/2017 at 8:34 PM, mFrame said:

Thanks!  Excuse the dirty glass, just back from a trip but wanted to show the size of these things.

The  toadstools have never really shed if you mean like sliming.  Occassionally they'll go dormant for a few days and pull all their polyps in but then they come back bigger.  Here are pics from the other side, where the large one is against the glass.  It's about 18" wide and 14" or so tall, but if the rock to each side of it weren't there it would open up to about 26"+.  It started as a 2" frag from RichardL about 2 years ago and has gone nuts.  The pink toadstool drops babies all the time.  They really don't cause problems other than making everything crowded, except that the frags that the pink one drops have to be collected or they take root everywhere.

The bubble coral was literally dead during my green hair algae battle.  It is sitting on top of a Cerameco cave rock that was covered with GSP.  The GSP had overgrown the entire bubble coral structure leaving a lone tiny bubble smaller than a bb.  Tim cleaned the GSP off the bubble skeleton and down the Cerameco rock but I assumed it was dead.  Now it is not only back with a vengeance, but has taking its revenge almost entirely eradicating the GSP.  Now if I can only get it to attack Anthelia!

What a comeback on that bubble coral! It's great to see an update!

[RicordeaFreak]

On 12/3/2017 at 8:34 PM, mFrame said:

Thanks!  Excuse the dirty glass, just back from a trip but wanted to show the size of these things.

The  toadstools have never really shed if you mean like sliming.  Occassionally they'll go dormant for a few days and pull all their polyps in but then they come back bigger.  Here are pics from the other side, where the large one is against the glass.  It's about 18" wide and 14" or so tall, but if the rock to each side of it weren't there it would open up to about 26"+.  It started as a 2" frag from RichardL about 2 years ago and has gone nuts.  The pink toadstool drops babies all the time.  They really don't cause problems other than making everything crowded, except that the frags that the pink one drops have to be collected or they take root everywhere.

The bubble coral was literally dead during my green hair algae battle.  It is sitting on top of a Cerameco cave rock that was covered with GSP.  The GSP had overgrown the entire bubble coral structure leaving a lone tiny bubble smaller than a bb.  Tim cleaned the GSP off the bubble skeleton and down the Cerameco rock but I assumed it was dead.  Now it is not only back with a vengeance, but has taking its revenge almost entirely eradicating the GSP.  Now if I can only get it to attack Anthelia!

That leather is amazing from a 2" frag to 26"+ in 2 years is impressive. My toadstool does the same thing with retracting its polyps for a couple days to grow bigger, but it sheds a "skin" from the surface which I've noticed irritates some of the other corals. What an incredible recovery on the bubble coral from a single bubble to how massive it is now, awesome!

[mFrame]

Time for a quick update.  The anthelia is GONE!  It took about 45 minutes with a dental pick, but I can happily say it has now been removed.

 

Once it was gone I saw the opportunity to finally do what had been my intention all along, to create a tri-column bridged structure for the anemones to ultimately populate.  A side goal was to find a way to hide my Tunze powerhead.  Other than about 6" of wire at the top these were both accomplished.  The new tower not only gives the nems room, but also helps fill the void at the end of the tank while providing rock work for the fish to swim through.  I'd begun noticing aggression with some of the larger fish constantly chasing off the smaller ones at feeding time.  The idea now is to break up line of sight so that everyone gets a more even chance at food.  Special thanks to Timfish for all his help assembling the columns.  Sorry about all the bristleworm stings, Tim!