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mhart032

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mhart032 last won the day on March 24

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About mhart032

  • Rank
    Elite Reefer
  • Birthday 05/28/1976

Profile Information

  • Location
    Schertz TX
  • Tank Size
    100 Gal
  • Gender
    Male

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    Yes

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  1. My have a rodi hose i connect to my topoff for when i leave the house for any time longer than a week. it has 2 float valves and the line has a neptune solenoid valve that will shut the valve off if the salinity get to low or trips the high level sensor in the sump. i us the tunze ato that will shut off as well with its sensors if it runs to long.
  2. I use the apex, i love the trident and alkatronic. i set up the AFS to feed pellets, the DOS does 10% water changes on sundays and doses the 2 part. The Versa doses the KZ products i use with exception to the refrigerated products. but im working on a solution for that using a 4 can micro fridge.
  3. The Mag 7 is not newer, ive had that pump for hell 10 years, still works like a champ though. The externals are brand new and the Sicces are used, one for a redsea reefer 450 i got when i bought the setup, and one for water changes that was on my 40gal build several years ago. all still work perfectly though minus the rubber suction cup feet, these kind of disappear for some reason 🤷‍♂️
  4. I have a few pumps im not using, I have a a couple Sicces 4.0 and 5.0 a Mag 7, Iwalki 70RTL and a reeflo manta ray.
  5. My big tang would eat those little guys, he devoured a court jester goby in 2 secs when i added that little guy to the tank, went after an emerald crab when i dropped him in the tank too. he couldn't eat it though.
  6. Im really fond of the aquascaping, when it grows out its going to be even better.
  7. Just a quick update, had an issue with low po4 and no3 browned out most my sps, but things are recovering and doing well. posting some pics.
  8. Its more dense, dont have to use as much and make a much better seal, not to mention if you mess up or have to unscrew the plumbing it will stay on the pieces and you dont have to reapply. It was recommended to me by the guys at Spears to use with PVC, it has a much better give due to the density and you can really wrench down on it without possibly cracking the fittings. I recommened it to a few guys having issues with bulkheads and standard teflon and worked great for them as well. you can buy it at most plumbing stores, Ferguson's, Morrison's, Moore Plumbing, most commercial plumbing stores, I tend to use them because there prices are really a ton lower than the big box stores and most the time they have everything in stock that we really need.
  9. Also worth mentioning, any threaded pluming parts, use blue monster tape vs regular teflon.
  10. It looks really nice, you did a good job, have you given any thought to tying in both pumps to the return section of plumbing? maybe separate the pluming with a gate valve so if you needed to work on or repair or worst case the core goes out all you have to really do is open a gate valve and minimize or turn off the reactors to continue the life support to the tank? Also worth mentioning, I did not find a way to hang the reactors from the manifold hard plumbed that could be easily removed from the manifold. I had my Spears rep at my house trying to figure this out with me and there just isn't a good way. we ended up using a 1/2 inch gate valve swedged down to 1/4 to fit the reactors top, but we had to use NPT to slip fittings to actually connect to the reactor, with the hard plumbing down to the tank you cant simply screw the reactor out of the gate valve because i didn't have enough room, i can remove the reactor body from the top sure, but that doesn't solve this issue. something to think about when your building the manifold.
  11. welcome to the club! looking forward to seeing this build.
  12. I thought about dosing more nitrate to keep it up as well. I think i will.
  13. Ok, so the water change only brought down the P04 to .17 ( hanna) that was roughly 30gals auto top off, i left 20 gals off the auto water change as backup, but i decided to vac the sand out in the corners where the detritus tends to build up, as well as the sump ( which was already pretty clean). P04 is down to .07 ( Hanna) with the added GFO, nitrates are still holding at roughly 3 ( Elos) i did add the trace elements the ICP test suggested, but i did only 1/2 amounts due to the water change. Triton trace elements are not cheap, but with the little amount needed its really not that bad. The LPS little that i have have responded favourably i think more to the trace elements less to the water change. the SPS seem to be holding where they are no more bleaching, the anemone didnt like the changes and deflated for a couple days, but seems to recovered well, actually better. its starting to bubble up vs before being longer and fat. Im not sure how much this was water chemistry or the radion G5 upgrade. Par is the same after checked with the Seneye Par/Per meter ( glad i didn't sell this thing a while back) im running the radions at 70% 10 inches off the water. ill give it a couple more weeks to see if the sps start to color back up.
  14. Quick update my nitrate has been pretty stable the last 2 days at 5 which im ok with, but my Po4 is rising, i mixed up 50gals more or less of saltwater and the apex is doing the water change right now, ive cut out the pellets and feeding mysis in the morning rinsed with rodi water, and still feeding the rods at night, still running carbon and rowaphos, if it continues to climb ill kick on the GFO reactor.
  15. I have been reading up on heavy metals and effects on coral tissue, there are a few papers written regarding the subject and they all led to mortality in most cases 100% in just over a matter of days. hopefully it changes quickly in my system and i can get it straightened out. This makes me think about @eddie-maximus when he had the issue, im not sure that we ever discussed heavy metals, i knw we discussed the marine pure blocks causing nitrate to drop, but he had both nitrate and phosphates, could be the same thing.
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