Dogfish

I have 4ea 20 amp circuits for the tank room. They are on a separate panel outside with other 2 other circuits for fridge, water storage tank pump and its UV unit ( so we can flush the toilet and drink water in case of power outage) and some lights. This has a transfer switch so a generator will kick on in case of a power outage. I use a continuous duty exhaust fan in the tank room vented thru the roof. The room has an air duct for heat and A/C . No separate unit.

Since you are pouring foundation, think about a recessed floor with drain. This way if you lose a few hundred gallons it will just go down the drain not out into a room. Have them epoxy the tank room floor when they come back to polish your main floor. A nice faux marble look to the tank room floor maybe?

Looking for a deal on a gently used light. Trying to wait until black friday but........ Tank mounting arms not needed.

Howdy

Howdy

What are they mounted on? NW Austin? Do you come South anytime during the week? PM me

I have a 55 that you could make into a sump if you want to go that route

Do you have 2? I will take them both

Gold Cristata torch - $15 picture?

It is this unit correct with all the pieces? If so I will take it cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/BRS 5 Stage SPARTAN Instructions.pdf

If you have livestock in the tank do not add ammonia.

I dont have any experience with ATM bacteria. If you do not have nitrites a good test is; add ammonia until you have a level of 2ppm then test 24 hours later. If ammonia is 0 and no nitrites are present then your tank is ready for livestock. How big a tank and how many fish is the next question. If you add too many, too fast, you will get more ammonia than the tank can process.

I think you have discovered the Facebook effect. Compare your posts here with what you post on Facebook. While these forums are the best at info they do not reach the number of people that Faceplant does. Buying, selling, messaging, exchanging pictures ect is just too easy. Like IRC, Napster and My Space, if they dont change, and in this case its difficult to do that, draw in new users, they slowly ride off into the sunset. As your kids have told you, Facebook will too.

The shipping on those things is very high because of the size. When I was looking I could not find anyplace that had the Ace Rotomold tanks that I wanted in stock. You either have to wait until the local store buys more tanks or pay for shipping. Since they are more geared to home and farm water finding tall thin tanks is a problem. Most common is the 65 gallon round ones at Tractor Supply. 2 Years ago San Antonio did not have these those sq tanks in stock. Get while the gettin is good

Does anyone have any experiences with rubber floor mats? Yes sir, They come in black and red. Red being grease resistant. They were developed for restaurants. They come 1/2 to 7/8 inch thickness and generally are made in 1 piece.2x3, 3x5, 4x6 ect... I used 2 of them under my old 125gal long tank stand. They work great if you spill water. Soak up what you can with a towel , the rest will evaporate. https://www.webstaurantstore.com/cactus-mat-3525-r1bx-vip-tuffdek-3-x-5-red-heavy-duty-grease-resistant-rubber-anti-fatigue-floor-mat-7-8-thick/844B3525R1.html

The acrylic shops carry it. Austin Plastics, Regal plastics

Run the #4 around the inside of all the seams while its clean. I would then run a bead of #16 in the seams where the trouble spots are. Its thicker and will fill in and seal any gaps.

The reason for not so much of a leak is lack of pressure if you did not fill it up to the normal level. So it looks like it is one seam and a corner. Have you been able to get all the crud out of the seam? Does the seam look like its full of bubbles or cracks? (failing)

I know a little. Enough to be dangerous. Lets find the leak and see if it is just a bad spot or the whole seam is coming apart.

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Parmer-Small-Electrode-Saver-Bottle/dp/B00NG2SQIC/ref=pd_sbs_328_1/141-3473233-0906331?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NG2SQIC&pd_rd_r=1c5171ce-4cce-4f7e-95ca-38f278de2bb6&pd_rd_w=XLKZs&pd_rd_wg=wKwT4&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=CX09EW2223RM6A83G83R&psc=1&refRID=CX09EW2223RM6A83G83R

I dont think any are more important than another. If you have A/C then you can always turn it down if a problem comes up. It will dry the air. It will cool the air. If air movement thru the tank room is not enough, you can add an intake fan to your set up. As long as you are exhausting the humid air I dont see a humidity issue. You have it contained in the tank room and bathroom. Since I have an A/C vent in my tank room I dont have to deal with air movement. I do leave the door open at night and turn off the exhaust fan. My wife has mold allergies. She has not had any issues with increased mold in the house. Im going to say its not any different for us with or without the tank. Now if you have condensation on going (windows , walls, floor) then you have a problem. We have concrete floors. If its humid outside and we leave the windows open in the spring and the floors are cold they get wet. Not from tank moisture, but from humid outside air.

The humidity in my house today is 57%. It has been less humid outside so inside has been lower. Normally spring and early summer is humid. I live at the bottom of a hill on a creek with flowing water. My yard is more humid than up the hill where they get a good breeze. My house runs about 65% in those times. When my house gets humid, my tank does not lose much water to evaporation. It will run about 1degree hotter than normal. I have a fan blowing across the sump that is used during those humid times so it does not get too hot.

I have not used that model fan. I do use the USB fans from them for my entertainment system cabinet and for the 2 power brick boxes for my tank lights. The USB fans work great.

Hate to see your gas bill

I did use the Hillyard product. I think other companies make epoxy coatings for floors, that use a primer that will adhere to concrete or wood. You can prob go to a paint store and ask them. They would know what you need for sure. With the Hillyard stuff you have to put down the primer/ base coat and then put down the epoxy within 24hrs. Im not sure how flexible it is once dry. You coat over it with a third coat that protects the epoxy. I put down 2 of these coats to be sure. Adds the shine. I think I got the flakes online (amazon). You can make the basin out of anything stationary. You dont want it to move and crack the epoxy. People use rubber, EPDM, flexable epoxy, or what they call shower pan liner (avail at the home depot). For a seam tape ask the paint store about fiberglass mesh tape for tile work. You could even be fancy and use tile board and tile the basin like a shower.