Jump to content

Dogfish

+Premium Member
  • Content Count

    582
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Dogfish

  1. Dogfish

    Steven's LED Biocube 32 - First Tank

    The reason you would do a test now is to see what might be in your water. In 6 months to a year when your tank becomes stable it might be useful to compare, now and then. Like stated above; if you have something weird going on you cant really measure it might be of use to figure it out.
  2. Dogfish

    The Maroon Lagoon V2.0

    Thats really sucky. You do have a nice salad mix going on there
  3. Dogfish

    What are your other hobbies?

    Boston Bruins ??? 75 a week is pretty impressive. Especially on that bike. Strava or Map My Ride ?
  4. Dogfish

    Calcium Reactor setup recommendations

    What media are you going to run? Are you adding any magnesium to your tank now? If so, I would add something like NeoMag - High-purity Magnesium Media to your reactor to help keep mag up
  5. Dogfish

    Calcium Reactor setup recommendations

    I also would set it at 1 bubble per second to start. Geo says start at 30 per minute. When you make adjustments to bubble rate wait a few hours for it to take effect on Ph. I have a small thin bubble counter which has fine bubbles so my rate would not be the same as yours. But it does go thru a large counter like yours and i see its about 1 bubble per second. Set your effluent drip rate to a fast drip. You dont want it to clog. You want the Ph in the reactor to be at about 6.8 for starters. Let it run a few days and check the effects on Alk and Ph in your display tank. Then you can make an adjustment to your effluent rate and/or Co2 bubble rate if needed. This is from my geo set up instructions Setting Up and Installing Your New GEO Calcium Carbonate Reactor Dialing in Your GEO Calcium Carbonate ReactorBefore attempting to dial in the reactor you must first understand how the reactor operates. Water in the reaction chamber is being circulated through the media many times per hour. Water is fed through the reactor rather slow, being just ml per minute. CO2 is slowly added to the reaction chamber and this allows the pH of the water to drop to an acidic level. This in turn allows the media in the chamber to break down and add elements to the water in the cir-culation loop. As water from your aquarium is fed into the loop, water from the reactor rich in calcium and carbonates is allowed to drip back into the sump. Two adjustments will effect the reactor effluent, CO2 bubbles per minute.(BPM) and the effluent drip rate. Increasing the BPM will raise the effluent alkalinity and lower the effluent pH. Increasing the effluent drip rate will raise the effluent pH and lower the effluent alkalinity.Before dialing in the reactor you will want the target values for the aquarium in place. Manually adjust these values with the appropriate buffers. You will also want to record the values of each test to track the effect of your adjustments during dial in. There is no set rule for BPM to gallons of water as aquarium is very different in demands and each reactor would be tuned in to meet those needs. I recommend a starting point of 50 ml per minute (NOT DROPS) and a BMP of 30. It is better to ramp up the values than to start too high and attempt to dial down. Let the reactor run for twelve to twenty four hours between each adjustment and test to see the results. After the initial adjustment you should see an increase in the effluent alkalinity and a drop in pH. If the aquarium values have dropped, increase the BMP. If the aquarium values have remained consistent or increased, allow the reactor to run as is and retest after the given time period. I suggest an increase of BPM no more than 10 at a time. As you are testing and adjusting the BMP, you will also want to keep track of the effluent pH, do not allow this to drop below 6.0 (depending on media used) for a long period of time. Below 6.0 pH, the media will quickly dissolve and turn to a mushy state. Once this has hap-pened, the flow through the reactor is hampered and performance will greatly suffer. If you do see the effluent pH below 6.0, make adjustment to the effluent drip rate, increasing as needed. As a general rule, the effluent alkalinity will be between 2 and 3 times that of your aquarium alkalinity.*If you are using a pH controller to regulate effluent pH, see page 3 of reactor instructions.
  6. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Decided to start on the tank. 2 years of putting the house and yard together is enough. Plus it's hot outside. First step is to get the room ready. Here are a few pictures of the room and platform the tank will sit on. The platform was engineered to hold 18,000 lbs. I was not sure if the tank would be glass or acrylic. I had to do a little leveling of the platform. The framers that built the house were close, but i dont want to be off a 1/16th with all that water. The fish will have a great view.
  7. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    The new leather looks great. Fills in that void that I had macros in that did'nt get enough flow on the sand.
  8. Dogfish

    Repeated cyanobacteria blooms

    Cyano, Hair and other algae is not a big prob unless you have too much. As with any ecosystem "in fighting" is going on. Algae can cover coral, use up nutrients -trace elements, and manufacture chemicals that favor it and could harm corals is there is too much in the water.
  9. Dogfish

    New to reef keeping

    Howdy
  10. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/
  11. Dogfish

    Hammers, Frog Spawns and Hammer-Spawns

    How about multi head on rocks or plugs?
  12. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Here is the results of my triton tests. I dont understand the DOC test part where Im to enter N from another source. Help please.
  13. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    It is open somewhat . Needs to get used to flow and light. As you can see I need to clean the sides.
  14. Dogfish

    Which LFS in San Antonio?

    I have been to both stores. Elegant Reef and (Salty Fish - Right off 35)
  15. Dogfish

    Tiny brown flatworms

    I have had 2 types of flat worms. The outbreak of red ones in my old tank I used flat worm exit and it worked. The new tank, I have red ones in my fuge and nothing will get rid of them. I have not tried a blue nudi. Once it eats them, it will starve with out more. I have 2 wrasses and so far the worms have not spread to the tank. I believe they need light to propagate. The white ones with forked tail appeared in the fuge for about a month then went away.
  16. x I have a problem. Water changes are helping (sorto of) 1 year old tank. 3ea 10% water changes in the past 3 days. Added a metal absorption packet this week. Noticed higher P and N, because of feeding the NPS. P went from .1 to .25 over 3 months and N went from 4 to 12 over the same period of time. I have reduced the P to back to .1 with GFO and stopped feeding so much to reduce the N. Timfish would prob ask; I have tried to syphon out a lot of junk in my fuge. It has ulva. I also cleaned the fuge glass. Also started on a carbon dosing thing to bring N down. All of this the last few days to help fix the issue. History: A month a go, bought a nem. I missed 1 weekly DT water change while I was treating it. I had a brief drop in alk. 9.0 to 8.7. Brought it back up over 2 weeks to 9.2 then back to 9.0 normal. When the nem was introduced to the tank it move to a mushroom covered shell and might have stung a few. They have now just about all disappeared on that shell. At the same time I increased my LEDs from 65% to 70% and upped the white a bit for the nem. I reduced it back to the old levels when things went south. To add another variable, I bought 2 toadstool leathers from another reefer. They had to be cut off rocks, so they were not happy. Dipped and added but that might have not killed off any bad unseen organisms. Changed out the carbon just incase warfare was going to happen. I also found some Red Sea part A and B and decided to dose it 1 time so see what would happen. Maybe not a good thing. About the same time the oak pollen appeared. When it rained my water tank turned a nice brown color (rain water supplied house) I dont mind the look in a water glass, but the smell is not pleasant. Like last year I added some bleach to my water tank (1ppm). This helped make it drinkable last year and sort of this year. Last year no effect on my coral. It goes thru 4 filters, next to last is a 20" carbon 0.5 micron before going into my 6 stage rodi unit. 2 weeks ago I noticed a problem with some of my coral. Things happen all at the same time. My urchin decided to run over my 18" colony of trumpets and most of the heads were either eaten or knocked off and are now floating around the tank. My other smaller trumpet colonies have lost their heads and I dont know why. Maybe it decided they taste great and ate them when i was not looking. It also ran over the top of my duncan colony 12 heads, and now its gone. Now for the real issue. My wall frogspawn dropped almost all of its guts, just a small amount remains. My 2 dendros lost all the heads.(3 months in tank) Sun coral is doing well.(added at the same time) My acan lost 2 heads and the remaining 4 are fair to Midland with the water changes. The nem is great. The other frogspawns I have are great. The leathers are doing well as well as one I have had for 9 months. I have mushrooms that are great and splitting. Torches are great. Bubble is growing. Chalice is growing. No increase in algae or cyano in the tank. So was it: Oak tannins in the oak pollen that effected my tank? Pathogens introduced from other corals? Coral war? Floating heads killing other corals? Drop in Alk for 1 week? All of the above? Some thing Im missing?
  17. Dogfish

    Coral problem, what do you think?

    The magnesium hovers between 1475 and 1500. The fuge light is a Viparspectra V300. www.viparspectra.com:.webloc
  18. Dogfish

    Found this on LR

    I think it is a rock arch mounting plug. You join two rock together with a rod between two if those. Or a sponge
  19. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Yep They are laying on the bottom between some smaller rocks in the back . No flow. I tried tying them down. They just shrink up and the string comes loose. I dont really want to sew them on. Maybe some day i can turn that back lower mp60 back on
  20. Dogfish

    The Maroon Lagoon V2.0

    Ouch
  21. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    So the mag moved last night. Went the wrong way. Was a bit higher but away from the flow. So today with the light on it went the other way. It is now on the rock about even with where it was on the glass bowl. Hoping tomorrow it climbs a bit higher. Closer to the light and more flow. In plain sight from both sides of the tank.
  22. Dogfish

    Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Anemone is now in the tank. Short video of its first day. 1 cycle of the sea swirl blowing over the top of it. If it does not move by tomorrow I will take it off the glass bowl and leave it there on the rock.
  23. Dogfish

    The Maroon Lagoon V2.0

    You can also run this TLF Metalsorb UHC Good luck sir
  24. Dogfish

    300 Gallon Disaster Reboot

    It drain into a 5 gallon container that I do empty, rather than have it go down the drain. I wiped off the front a bit so you can see the foam. Looks like its growing some green algae in the neck. Maybe hair algae or green coraline.
  25. Dogfish

    300 Gallon Disaster Reboot

    I guess after a year I should clean mine. When I have time........
×