Jump to content

Good Greef

Members
  • Posts

    291
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Good Greef

  1. Anyone have a used controller for my Maxspec Gyre xf250? It has been hooked up to my Apex for the past few yrs but that variable speed port no longer works.
  2. Anyone have frags to sell of this? Man, this board seems so dead nowadays.
  3. Not gonna question any of your degrees, or say other reefers are smarter than you. I'm an economics and finance guy.. But I just don't know if I trust anyone better than myself, because its my tank that i test daily for 2 yrs and observe with my own eyes. And I am the one watching the daily revival or coral flesh, almost immediately after I do massive water changes. When I dilute my tank 20% between tests, the drop in Sn corresponds exactly. So I think its smart to everyone on online forums to do their own detective work. Because if I were just gonna follow your advice for example that its a nutrient issue, then I cannot explain why po4 levels of .05ppm (using Hanna ULR, daily) for 3 months straight still kills acros, and levels of .12 for 3 months kills them too? Alk always between 7.25dkh-7.50dkh. There's no doubt there's a money grab by TRITON, but isn't this whole **** hobby a money grab? I guess my point is. I don't think I can be more diligent in daily testing and note taking. So I can either go my route or just never buy acros again and enjoy my tank. But to answer you, I was going to send in just fresh saltwater for the test (might still do), but I thought how did my previous massive water changes drop my tin so much, if my newly mixed saltwater was tainted too? Going fwd, my plan is: 1. Make note of my baseline test when results are back next week. 2. Stop water changes for a month and observe my frags to see if tissue is continuing to grow back. Send another Triton test in. If tin levels don't rise at all, then im good. 3. If they do raise slightly, I will stop my search for whatever the hell is causing it. And just spend 15 mins, once a month, and do a 33%water change. 4. Buy more coral
  4. I almost didnt want to post anything b/c it takes so much energy to re-explain my situation. But I consider this a journal for my sake, so here we go. ** Preface: its not the ICP tests that I'm basing my theory on, its the pattern of acro growth then death that has been in lockstep with my tin levels over a 7 month period** After diluting all the tin out of my tank with several 60 gallon water changes 7+ months ago. I loaded up on a bunch of acros from Ty and Jolt. My hypothesis was my initial tin buildup came from the new floated glass and pvc of my tank + one rusty hook above my sump. So I stopped water changes and for several months my acros finally started showing encrusting. Then one by one they started getting the burnt tips and dying, as they did previously with my elevated tin. Alk and nutrients were stable the whole time (see past posts on details bc I dont feel the need to prove they were each time, though its all logged daily in my APEX). Sent in another ICP test and tin was back up to 12mcg/l from 1mcg. Some of yall will say its not an issue but I am 100%saying it is FOR MY TANK. Also read that high p04 excaberates it, which explains why some ppl may not have coral death with elevated tin issues. And all my LPS and gonis are fine, its just the acros and montis. Long story short (or not ha), I took all pumps apart again and noticed rusting in the 2 places I didn't check previously. My tunze osmolator and my water change pump (tunze also)that i store 24/7 in my fresh rodi. Both had signs of rust so I replaced them. Also ran a magnet through my sump and sand. 180 gallons of water changes over a week later, and I immediately see life on what I thought were 100% dead skeletons. The only other "issue" on my ICP was elevated aluminum which I assume came from my 2xblocks of marine pure. i chunked them too bc I dont need it anymore. So I sent in another icp test to get a baseline for my tin going fwd. Will be trying again with a few test acros, and will test again in a month to see if it rises. Sigh... when you test things daily and ensure all parameters are stable, it's discouraging to stay in this hobby (not to mention this all went down when my 4 month old was born SMH). Moral of the story: Tin can be an issue. Nothing removes it except large water changes. If you have an enemy, hide a nail in their sand hahaha.
  5. Got dam it Ty. You can grow a turd on a tile if you wanted to...
  6. Can be 5# or 10#. Just to keep on hand when needed. Happy to pick up wherever is convenient for you. Marc
  7. Congrats bud! That's pretty cool. It's ok to pat yourself on the back for this achievement!!!
  8. Toss that with some sesame oil, ponzu, and sesame seeds [emoji1787][emoji1787]. But really, sorry to hear that happened. This hobby definitely tests one's resilience
  9. So a few articles I read mentioned that although the vast majority of ancillary jobs were eliminated, the maricultured farmers/divers are still tending and growing the corals. So that would hopefully mean an oversupply vs normal?
  10. I also use 2 xf250s with icecap and apex and it works great. Like Jim said, takes a little programming but there's enough templates out there.
  11. Good Greef

    Sea Hare

    Do you still have the sea hare? I can use one for a few weeks to eat some of the GHA I got sprouting in places.
  12. Glad to hear you found a culprit. Did any ICP test reveal anything? My tank has also struggled to keep corals alive until a recent/my first Triton test showed elevated tin levels. So I also found a magnetic hook that sits above my sump was rusty, so after removing and doing 5×60 gallon water changes, corals are finally surviving and growing. Ive heard Metasorb can help, but I wouldn't rely on Curpisorb which many ppl have suggested. I used it for weeks wtih GAC and retested with no changes. Water changes are the only way I am seeing progress.
  13. I wouldnt trust a robot with my bank account either lol. Although I'm unsure if ill kill things before it does [emoji23]
  14. Jolt, Do you know the names of that vendor/company setup to your left (when looking at your table)? Had a question for them on the name of a frag I bought. Thanks.
  15. Hope all the vendors are ready at open bc I only have an hour lol! Looking fwd to it. Can't believe ive never been.
  16. Thanks for your thoughts. I do have the newer Apex which has monitored those crucial parameters continuously since day one. But yes, I have zero intention of buying any products from Triton or anywhere else. I can only imagine how much money they make on that. If they had an accurate hobby grade test kit for tin I would buy that, but doesnt seem like there is. My geo 618 reactor and AP carbon doser keep the alk/cal in shape. I test po4 daily with HannaULR, which is getting expensive too. I feel like a car mechanic that has tried everything to fix that squeaking and am running out of things to check.
  17. Thanks Victoly. I appreciate the angle you approach this. I guess, in a way, I am excited to have a tangible thing to focus on and target. And seeing a rusty magnetic hook above my sump added fuel to my fire to fix this. Because when Alk/temp/salinity have been rock stable for 4-5 months, my po4 and no3 are present sufficiently (.03-.08 and 16ppm-32ppm), have corraline sprouting everywhere, i am acclimating slowly to my LEDs even if the frags came from tanks with LEDs. And I have other LPS and a digitata and setosa alive, I don't know what else to do... But perhaps I will look to submit my 2nd test to multiple parties perhaps. Battlecorals coincidently, posted on R2R this week, that he also had high tin levels He experimented and sent the water to multiple test companies and the disparities were huge. Are these just scams haha?
  18. So to attempt to reduce the tin problem, I have done the following : 1. Removed a rusty magnetic hook that was 18 inches above my sump. 2. Refreshed 1/2 cup of GAC 3. Placed 300ml of Cuprisorb inside my filter sock drains for max absorption 4. ~20% water change 5. Will place plolyfilter tonight Does anyone have experience with removing Tin from their tanks? Or how efficient cuprisorb is at removing metals? Also wondering if its bad to tumble it too much and if others permanently run it or polyfilters in their DT? I hope this was tied to that rusty hook, or because my tank and PVC are fairly new, which others anecdotally believe causes high tin levels for new tanks.
  19. Anyone heard of any updates on this? My googling didn't find much recent news on the interwebs
  20. It's been awhile since I made any updates. For my records, I figured its good to document the good and bad at month 16. My tank's fish stock sits at 24 total. Been feeding them frozen mysis/fish roe 2x/day, and my autofeeder drops pellets 2x/day. Don't plan on adding much more, if any. They don't fight Been unable to keep my acros as healthy as I want. The level of analysis Ive gone through is too long to post about. But I am working on 3 major things before concluding my tank is too young at 16 months old. 1. ICP Test: attached are my results. Will post on natl forums for thoughts, but open to any thoughts here as well. I expected aluminum to be elevated because I run 2 marinepure blocks in my sump, but Tin levels are my only main concern now. Though when Randy Homes Fairley states it is impossible to discern the severity of tin levels, or what is toxic for corals, I'm limited to what I can do except large water changes. 2. Par Meter: acclimation to my light/spectrum had been my biggest theory. So ill prob rent one to check my 2xap700, but reading BRS and Riddle's par chart at 100%, I doubt it is the cause of struggles bc I max at 40%. I've tried mounting new frags up high immediately, then tried on a frag rack at bottom of my tank. 3. Adding more live, diverse organisms and bacteria to my tank. Since I started this tank off with 0% live rock for fear of pests, I think that's a big factor. So thanks Ty for letting me swap out a new rock for one of yours. Not all corals are struggling. Mainly acros get sunburnt/ peeling after 2-4 wks. Alk is literally between 7.25-7.40 every day. Biggest swing has been would be 0.35 daily, if any.
  21. Will the frags be as chunky? Lol
  22. First im pissed i missed this thread. Then realized i need my icp tests back before i waste anymore money. Will PM you hopefully soon
×
×
  • Create New...