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Sascha D.

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Sascha D. last won the day on March 28

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About Sascha D.

  • Rank
    Elite Reefer
  • Birthday 04/21/1982

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pflugerville
  • Tank Size
    300g
  • Gender
    Male
  1. I've been using a Jebao/Jecod DCT 12000 for about a year. The DCT is better than the DCS model. It's more quiet than my previous "QuietOne" and it's only $90 at Amazon.
  2. A big increase to lighting intensity or length could cause a reaction in the coral. Sometimes going from MH or T-5 to LED can be stressful. I have increased my PAR by 30% at one time and didn't see any negative effects. On a separate occasion I left my lights on all night by accident. Some of the corals were really pale for a few days, but that was all. It could also be that the corals had a period of increased uptake. You should see a steady increase in the amount you dose as the corals grow, but we'll sometimes see spikes of increased (or decreased) consumption. Most of the time it will occur as a result of environmental conditions, but may occur after periods of stress or fragging. If you left your lights on all night like I did, then you would see a decrease in uptake for 2-7 days as the corals recovered. There are a lot of pests that plague corals, but not very many other afflictions. Bacterial disease is the only one that I can think of at the moment. This is often called brown jelly and affects the fleshy portions of LPS corals. The other things that happen to corals, like bleaching, are reactions to environmental conditions and not really diseases. Someone else might have more input on diseases.
  3. I like the twist CFL bulbs, but some people use the LED's. Most of them are just trying to be fancy, but some are trying to limit equipment heat. CFL and incandescent bulbs run hotter than LED's and add some heat to the water. The heat can help stabilize water temperature when running on a reverse cycle, but might be a problem if you run the display and refugium at the same time. Heat probably isn't an issue for tanks above 100 gallons unless you're running VHO or MH lighting. Otherwise changing the bulb probably won't yield better results.
  4. The reason that we keep our Alk, Ca, and Mg steady at natural seawater or higher is to speed up the growth rate of the corals. With everything else equal, two frags of the same coral will look exactly the same at 6 dKH and 9 dKH. The difference will be in their growth rates. The corals can sometimes have problems when the levels have risen or fallen too rapidly. Hobbyists use dosing equipment to add small increments of additives to the aquarium to avoid a sharp rise in the parameters. Raising your dKH from 8 to 9 is enough to cause the damage from your original post. The brown stuff that you're seeing is where algae has grown over the exposed skeleton after the coral has receded.
  5. That's too bad. Any idea why? I've only been there once and he was only running four tanks at the time.
  6. Good idea cutting the dead parts back. Check back in about a week and see if it's recovering. Red and green macroalgae are pretty accommodating when it comes to lighting requirements. I think 3,000K to 6,500K fluorescent is the best, but some people have had success with LED's. Plants grow the best under yellow light, which is optimal for photosynthesis. I use the bulb listed here, about midway down the page. The wattage used will depend on the photo period. I like 8 hours at 40W equivalent or 12 hours at 25W if you're using reverse lighting.
  7. Low dKH wouldn't cause the dead tips. You said that you had dosed. How much do you raise your Alk at one time?
  8. @achen had posted about selling rotifier cultures a few months ago.
  9. It's dying. If the tissue has little tiny dots all over it then you've got a sexual episode. If you don't then you're either baking it with too much light or too low nutrients.
  10. Bpb, are the items available commercially or can they only be DIY? Adjusting the bubble count of my regulator is like turning a battleship.
  11. Sorry to hear about the corals. When the tips die like that, do you normally cut them off just below the healthy line? When I don't cut the tips they grow algae over the exposed skeleton and look horrible. What do you do when you get RTN through the base of the coral like that? When I start to cut that much skeleton away I always end up with a lot of frags. I think it could be the bone cutters and maybe it wouldn't be so bad if I used a saw.
  12. Yer killin' me Smalls!
  13. I'm glad to hear it. I had to perform life saving techniques on the Regal Angel, who got his cheek spines caught in the net. There was also an emergency surgery on the Flame Wrasse when he got his upper teeth caught in the net. If only SOMEONE had cleaned out their bagging container! There was God-knows-what stuck to the bottom that that thing and I wasn't about to poison them.
  14. That butterfly was giving Isaac a twitch! The stars had to have aligned just right for him to get through all of those bags. It's a good thing the Emperor Angel had to go into the cooler anyway. Speaking of fish, how did they make the transition?