Sascha D.

I have a teal wall octospawn, 10 heads of reverse frogspawn and I can cut from my peach hammer. I'll PM you the pictures when I get home.

How classy. Anyone else you want to call out or was that it?

Sadly, we lost a few corals after running into some issues with source water. This is the same problem as last year and I hope it's not an annual event. All of the RODI filters were changed and it looks like we're back on track! One of the long-term goals that I have had is to establish an in-line frag tank and I found a spare tank online in April. I took the first steps to getting that set up this weekend and made a video for fun!

The above code works as of this morning. Also, they're waiving the flat $19.99 on shipping today only. Both promotions work together for an amazing deal! The below example is 26 packages of mysis at $3.19 each.

Available for sale until 7/18

I got the same message. Think we got robo pm'd! Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Thank you everyone that's messaged me so far. The below corals sold. 7 8 10 15

Jedi Mind Trick $30 Jedi Mind Trick $20 Jedi Mind Trick $10 GSP $10 GSP $10 ORA Green/Pink Pocillopora $10 ORA Green/Pink Pocillopora $10 WWC Bizarro $40 Atlantis Meteor Shower $20 ORA Elkhorn $15 ORA Elkhorn $5 ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $20 ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $20 ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $30 ORA Sour Apple Birdsnest $30

I'm a little behind on fragging and some corals got shaded. I mean the bigger corals are blocking the light and not that they're talking bad about each other.

You're absolutely right; the two options are drilling or installing a HOB option. I've done it both ways and there are arguments for each type, but what's important is what you can live with. First, you should check with the manufacturer and see if the glass is tempered as that will potentially eliminate one option. If the glass isn't tempered on the back wall, then you can drill two holes on the back wall: one for the return and one for the durso drain. The bulkheads would be installed on the back wall and you'd essentially have an internal overflow box. I wouldn't attempt to drill the bottom of the aquarium because there isn't enough room between the edge and the hole. I've read that you need at least 1" between the edge of the aquarium and the hole to prevent chipping while drilling and to handle the stress of the water. Alternatively, you could skip the drilling and slap on a HOB option to plumb directly to the sump. People generally pick this option because drilling is not available, they're afraid to do it, or they don't want to remove an established system. Everything else is easy after you decide which overflow option to go with.

Corals adapt the zooxanthellae within their structure to changing lighting conditions. EcoTech has developed research into how corals respond to different temperatures and used that research to create light settings within their products (see attachment). I'm assuming a lot of companies in the industry perform similar research, but I'm not sure who was the first to give proper credit. Anyway, most corals change colors from tank to tank mostly due to lighting conditions in different placement areas. Acans and brains are famous for changing to completely different colors and that's why they're seldom named corals. SPS retain colors more readily, but can also change in reaction to less/more light and different PAR levels. IME SPS turn green/brown with predominately yellow/white light in the 2K-5K range and with high nutrient environments. I personally enjoy 18K for viewing. ReefWholesale_CoralLab.pdf

Super pumped! It's been a long time since I lost mine in the crash. Need to reorganize some corals to mix up some of the colors/shapes and then finish stocking my last five. Going to be a blast watching everything grow! Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Corrected the video and pictures in the post above. Somehow the pictures got doubled and the video was completely gone! In other news, there is something seriously wrong with me! I turned down a beautiful, healthy, Desjardini Sailfin Tang list for $30. I can't even find a meme that expresses my confusion at my own actions right now...

It's been a couple of weeks and probably safe to post an update now! I've had mostly bad luck with Naso Tangs during my time in the hobby. Most of them don't eat and just waste away. This guy took about three days and then started to pick at some mysis. After a week he started to eat pellets and I knew he would make it. He's now eating everything that I put into the tank, including Nori on a clip. I can't wait to see them all grow now that the tank is fully stocked! I had an Orange Linkia for about a year in 2012-2013, it seems but they've become more rare lately. I've been seeing the blue on LA, but haven't seen orange, red or purple in quite a while. I found this Burgundy Linkia in ARC about a month ago and he's been doing great so far. By great, I mean alive since I can't tell much else about seastars. They're basically alive until they're dead so here's hoping for the best!

Except for the Nori, all of your foods are protein based. If I remember right, the stringy stuff is due to too much protein and fat in the diet. I would cut the feeding down for a week and see if that improves it. I would feed pellets and one type of frozen food per day and Nori 2-3 times a week. A lot of books say that fish benefit from multiple smaller feedings because their stomachs aren't big enough to take in too much at one time, but I've never had any problems feeding once per day.