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Timfish

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About Timfish

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  • Location
    North Central
  • Tank Size
    140 gal.
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Planet Aquarium 130g

    Thank You! But you didn't see my setups 20 - 25 years ago. You, and others, are much farther along than I was after several years setting up or redoing tanks.
  2. Planet Aquarium 130g

    Yes, you have very nicely colored corals. But sexy colors doesn't necessarily mean healthy. Charles Delbeek expressed this concern in Coral Nov/Dec 2010, pg 127 "When I see the colors of some of these low nutrient tanks, I can't help but be reminded of bleached coral reefs. It should therefore not come as a surprise that feeding corals in such systems becomes a very important component in these systems. Though reefs are often catagorized as nutrient "deserts" the influx of nutrients in the form of particulates and plankton is quite high when the total volume of water passing over a reef is taken into consideration. Our crystal-clear aquaria do not come close to the nutrient loads that swirl around natural reefs. And so when we create low-nutrient water conditions, we still have to deal with the rest of a much more complex puzzle. Much like those who run their aquarium water temperature close to the thermal maximums of corals walk a narrow tight rope, I can't help but think that low-nutrient aquariums may be headed down a similar path." Charles Delbeck, Coral Nov/Dec 2010, pg 127. And we now have research done on corals maintained for years in a ULN system showing how phosphate deficiency screws up corals: http://www.indiaenvironmentportal.org.in/files/file/Nutrient enrichment.pdf https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2015.00103/full https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025326X17301601?via%3Dihub Additionallly manipulating the zooxanthellae to reduce their numbers to optimize idealized colors can have a direct negative impact on the mucus production of a coral which is a critical component of a corals immune system.
  3. Looking for lighting too

    The problem you'll have with the Viperspectra and most other "blackbox" fixtures on a 20 L is they can easily fry corals if set too high. It should work though. Keep in mind most of the cheap overseas fixtures overstate their wattage. The actual wattage of the fixture should be checked in the equipment specifications, The Viperspectra for example is 110 watts.
  4. STN or Nudibranchs destroying this chalice?

    Have you confirmed nudibranchs on the Alien Eye chalice? Most nudibranchs are typically species or genus specific. The Allien Eye also has a better defined edge in contrast to the monti which suggests you might be seeing 2 different issues and something is causing some tissue necrosis on the Alien Eye.
  5. Light left on too long?

    One day shouldn't be much of an issue for most corals that are acclimated and growing with your current light setup. It might be enough to slow down growth on some animals over the next month or so if you're tracking that closely. FYI 3-4 days constant light is enough to kill some animals and set others back for weeks.
  6. Andrew's 45g

    Looking good! It's touchy adding stuff fast but it can bypass the some of the algae cycles maturing a tank. My sequence I've been using for a couple decades now is to use quality live rock that's been quaritined, live sand and water and sand from an established reef system. Mushrooms and soft corals form other systems are added on day one and if no ammonia (which there usually isn't but it can jump pretty high) damsels are added on day 2. Looking at the microbial processes there's an argument for it as corals promote autotrophic processes where as algae promotes hetrerotrophic processes that can lead to eutrophication.
  7. the jolt 1̶5̶0̶ 180

    @ recordeafreak Anthias are sequential hermaphrodites like clowns and wrasses but the terminal phase is male like the wrasses. It's best to get a group of females and let one change sex on it's own. Getting a male might be an issue if one of the females had already started changing sex and progressed far enough it could not switch back. Some anthias are very particular but I've kept Disbar and Lyretail successfully with an autofeeder feeding .5mm pellets mixed with Two Fishes Zooplankton (Reef Roids should work as well or better) 4 times a day along with occasional frozen.
  8. A bacterial infection certainly could have done this. But as pathogens are found on healthy corals what might have been the stressor to cause a rapid onset of infection? Could a new or different strain have been brought in with one of the new additions? We have solid research showing ULN methods have a negative impact corals immune system and ability to adapt so was there an sudden change in environemntal or nutrient variables? This was in an office so is it possible someone unknowingly did something and there aren't any environemntal or nurtrition issues (I've certainly had problems with "housekeeping" over the decades I've had my maintenance business)?
  9. Pagoda cup doing wierd things. Is something going wrong?

    A QT is the best way to prevent ick from getting into a DT but a UV, properly installed, can be effective in dealing with ick. Do a search with the screen/user name "Hydro" and the term "UV Sterilizer" to find some good discussions on it use. The polyp retaction is expected according to Fritz (you might contact them to see if if htey have any advise on repeated treatments). (Corals are proactively manipulating the microbial processes in their mucus coating and in the water around them and the Neem oil used has bacterial static properties and for that reason alone I would not use it in a reef system.)
  10. 220 Rimless w/ Mangrove

    Latest video including a view from the upper balcony.
  11. What about a temp swing over the weekend? Are you keeping PO4 really low? What are your nitrates at? Were any amino acids dosed last week or over the weekend? If you're using ULNS methods this research shows even though the zooxanthellae provide a higher percentage of the sugers they make to corals for growth it also makes corals much more sensitive to changes in light, temperature and sudden increases in nitrogen. http://www.indiaenvironmentportal.org.in/files/file/Nutrient enrichment.pdf https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2015.00103/full https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025326X17301601?via%3Dihub
  12. Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Fans and evaporative cooling can extend your usage time. With good airflow evaporative cooling can keep the water at the average daily low temperature. In theory you could keep fish and hardy inverts all summer long.
  13. 220 Rimless w/ Mangrove

    This was a bittersweet addition. A client I've had for 21 years moved to CA and shut down their fish only system. It's sad to lose a system running for so long but I did get to move some very nice fish to my other clients. This Purple Tang was in initially purchased in 2004:
  14. Tank - Sump Build 500 gal +

    Seems like making your "X" with some aluminum bar stock that fits through the links of the chain seems like an easy way to help with cable organization. Since you're familiar with Sci Grip #40 for your Sea Swirls you can get acrylic tubing for clear return nozzles. If you don't have a miter saw it's easy enough to make miter cuts by hand to make 22.5° or 45° elbows (or whatever angle you want) glued to a PVC fitting that matches the connection on the Sea Swirl.
  15. Advice for acclimating delayed livestock

    Update? I'm real curious what's still alive after such a stressful event.
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