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Timfish last won the day on May 11

Timfish had the most liked content!

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About Timfish

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    North Central
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    140 gal.
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  1. Timfish

    Mag test readings

    Right, stable alkalinity is more important than calcium and magnesium as it's what corals use to build their skeletons and it's being used by all algae in a system so there's a much heavier demand for it. Calcium and magnesium need to be kept above certain numbers (I use 360 mg/l calcium and 1200 mg/l magnesium as minimums). This discussion does highlight the issue with inacurate or aging test kits and I replace my test kits at least yearly and always compare the new and old test kits to make sure there's no difference.
  2. Timfish

    Power strip / timer recommendations

    This is the most reliable timer I've come across: https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-TN311-Heavy-Grounded-Timer/dp/B00LAI1O1U/ref=sr_1_2?s=appliances&ie=UTF8&qid=1531741898&sr=1-2&keywords=intermatic+timer But there's also wifi timers like this one you can program with your cell phone: https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Outlets-Compatible-Google-Assistant/dp/B07CMNH8F9/ref=sr_1_1?s=appliances&ie=UTF8&qid=1531742067&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+outlet+timer
  3. Timfish

    Pale SPS

    You've stripped out too many nutrients especially phosphates. You're supplementing nitrogen adding amino acids but running phosguard, dosing vinegar and using macroalgae you've created a phosphate defeciency. (Adding nitrogen sources like amino acids can create or excerbate a PO4 deficiency issue.) Carefully increase PO4 to >.03 mg/l and I would suggest around .1 mg/l. Keep in mind photobiology is not only species unique but also will vary at the genotype level and by species of simbionts of each colony. Don't be surprised by varying responses in your corals. Long term research done in Southampton University with coral maintained on a closed system found phosphate deficiency can severely upset the photobiology of corals making them very sensitive to light and temperature changes. Adding nitrogen to a system that is phosphate deficient may only exacerbate the problem. Their research found a minimum threshold level for PO4 of .03 mg/l. Other research has shown increasing phosphate increases corals growth and nitrogen uptake by corals is phosphate limited. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022098111004588 http://www.indiaenvironmentportal.org.in/files/file/Nutrient%20enrichment.pdf https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2015.00103/full https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0025326X17301601?via%3Dihub http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/16/2749.full https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRIKW-9d2xI
  4. If this helps, keep in mind every time a corals is moved it has to make changes to it's photobiology and it takes weeks to months, depending on species, for these changes to be done (and as pointed out in the paper Stoneroller posted and I mentioned some may never adjust). And for future reference if you get more Xenia here's a video showing water and lighting conditions it tolerates: Lighting varies from low to bright, ~25 to ~230 PAR. Estimated color temperature is around 13000K. Flow varies from nonexistant to very high in front of the return line.
  5. Your comment about keeping Xenia caught my attention. I have the generic, Silver and Pom Pom and none of them are too particular about water flow. The generic, from my experience could really care less, it's much more a light intensity (not so much spectrum) to get good pulsing but they do fine in lower light levels if pulsing isn't much of an issue. Exactly what are your water parameters? What is your lighting?
  6. Sorry to hear about it's demise. 🙁 I do have a few thoughts. One fascinating thing I'v elearned that has helped me understand why stuff doesn't do well even though everything "should be" right is corals have been shown to have a decadal memery, they actually learn and memorize the conditions they grew in and changes that one specimen of given species/genotype may be indifferent to, another specimen of same species/genotype may find it unacceptable and it may never thrive. (This decadal memory is at the polyp level and polyps in different locations in the same colony can react differently.) Each species we keep also has many different genotypes and each genotype has different simbionts and different degrees of adaptability and tolerance to bacterial infections. Did your torch ever split? If it never split in the year and half you had it that would be a very good indicator it was never happy with your system in the first place. So short answer is what Stoneroller said, get local corals that are doing well under similar conditions to your system.
  7. Timfish

    What the . . . what are the odds!

    Woohoo! I was moving some stuff around and found another baby clam in this system. It looks to be a couple years old based on what I've seen with the others in this system over the last 12 years when the first two showed up.
  8. Timfish

    Filtration advice needed

    I'm a bit confused also but it sounds like you have soemthing like a Red Sea system that has a filter built into the back of the system. If so it should work fine but there are advantages to having a sump in the future if you ever move or upgrade. I wouldn't use the canister filter though, IMO they require more work than they are worth and I certainly haven't needed them on any of my systems I've run.
  9. Timfish

    Mag test readings

    I rarely test more than monthly but I'm curious if you tested at the same time each day. Have you tried testing in the morning and evening to see if there's a change? In this thread I had the magnesium climp over 2000 without adding anything and after 2 years it's still staying fairly high, ~1800 last time I checked. It also was not the source RO as I did not have this problem with other system using the same water. Aproxamately two months prior to posting the thread I had a timer fail in the on position and the lights were on for several days before it was noticed. Most of the corals did not "appear" to have any ill effect except for the bubble coral in the middle which kept declining over several more months before I gave up and removed it.
  10. Timfish

    Christmas tree rock

    I hate to say it but in all my years of keeping corals I've never known anyone to be successfull keeping christmas tree worms for any length of time.
  11. Timfish

    Mag test readings

    You said you turned off your dosing pump, I'm assuming it was dosing magnesium? Did you change your alkalinity and/or calcium dosing? Did you make a big change to your lights or lighting schedule? Endoliths are dissolving the sand and rock in your system but not all organisms that use bicarbonate are also going to use magnesium like corals. If something disrupted your corals calcification process you might still see bicarbonate being used but magnesium might not be.
  12. Because they're not trying to kill each other. 😁 First of all none of the tang pairs in my tanks have ever been observed breeding so I can't say any of them are proven pairs like I can say with clowns. For all practical purposes you're right about hobbiests being not being able to determine males from females as most of the tangs we deal with when we purchase them are still juviniles. Strictly speaking though, many surgeon/tangs species do show sexual dimorphisim in size. With Powder Blues females can be twice the size of males. With Yellow Tangs the males can be larger than females but the size difference is much smaller than with PBs and there is more overlap between the sexes. Many surgeon/tang species form pairs in the wild and it's reasonable we should be able to establish pairs in our aquariums and Powder Blues are one of those species. Additionally, I've seen pairs form with yellow tangs in my tanks over the years which raises some questions as in the wild they do not. The most exasperating example of a pair forming in one of my systems was when I added 3 yellow tangs to a 350 gallon system with a Purple Tang and a Sailfin Tang. The Purple almost immediatly started swimming peacefully with one of the Yellow Tangs and kept chasing off the other two Yellow Tangs. At about 6 months it decided it had enough and spent about 4 hours one afternoon killing the two yellows it didn't like and lived peacefully with the remaining Yellow Tang for another twelve years. Based on what I've seen over the years a significant problem with keeping multiple tangs, is groups of the same size juviniles are put together at roughly the same time. By quarantining tangs together to see who likes who, extending the quarantine time to be sure everyone is eating and gaining weight and by get disparite sizes I have very few issues compared to 20 years ago. And individual personality can always trump anything I do. 😕
  13. Timfish

    Rusty dusty type stuff

    I pinch it or fold it partially with one hand while my other hand holds it, in most cases, roughly 6" from the end that's siphoning out algae. I also use stainless steel straws with a bend in them or striaght pieces of 1/2" CPVC pipe of various lengths as a nozzles if needed. As far at TDS causing cyano this reef system was started in 1994 and since it was rehomed in 2007 it has had water changes with tapwater. Does it look like it has a cyano issue?
  14. Timfish

    Rusty dusty type stuff

    What diameter tubing are you using? I always use 9/16 so I'm not standing over a bucket forever.
  15. Timfish

    Rusty dusty type stuff

    You're Welcome!