Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Timfish last won the day on March 21

Timfish had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

815 Exalted

About Timfish

  • Rank
    Elite Reefer

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Central
  • Tank Size
    140 gal.
  • Gender

Controller Integration (Signature)

  • Controller Enabled

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Kinda depends. First of all you should be aware there are aging processes in corals that may show as changes in coloration. (This paper on aging in corals is fascinating but it is a bit thick: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/brv.12391) An example below is of a Povona cactus colony in one of my tanks. The change to brown is evident in the older polyps (lighting varies from ~150 - 175 PAR across the whole colony). Light availability is also a very common factor in changes in coloration of the lower parts of colonies, once you've added your new lights I'd expect to see some improvemnet in a few weeks but if you don't see any after a couple months it's probably not going to happen. And flow may be a factor also. Growth of a colony plays a big factor in both of these variables.
  2. I would skip the Chromis and get 3 Royal Grammas instead. From what I've seen over the years only about 5% of chromis make it to one year. If you adamant you'll have better luck getting different sizes (ages) so you'll be establishing a more natural social group. And if you can find them Chromis atripectoralis looks very similar to Chromis viridis, the few I've stumbled across had a better survival rate. A trio of Royal Grammas will be flashier and they have more interesting behavuor: to maintain the social structure they'll display by facing off and opening their mouths wide at each other, they also will swim on thier side or upside down when around the aquascaping. There's no reason the firefish won't do well but they tend not to like active tanks so you may not see it much with a couple Halicheores wrasses running around. Your odds of success will be greatly improved if you wait for a larger tank for a tang, or other larger fish for that matter. But even with a larger fish tank you can have a specimen that will not settle in and you need to be prepared to rehome it. This artical here is a good introduction to steriotypy behavior in animals that can indicate adjustment issues to thier new environments.
  3. Looks like a nice build! I would put an emphasis on redundancy, look at each component of your setup and ask yourself what happens if it fails wen you're out of town? Do you have someone(s) who can troubleshoot and fix/replace critical components? I like the idea of controllers but have seen them fail in some fashion or another and kill livestock or causee lots of headaches fixing/replacing them. As far as lights go whatever you choose there will be animals that don't like it. This paper done by Ken Feldman and Joshi Sanjey show species specific responses to different lights (see fig. 7-17). Lighting spectra also has effects skeletal growth as seen in this paper.
  4. I have to agree with Ian on a canister filter. I know people have been successful using them on reef systems but my experiences with them they are prone to leaking as they age and if there is a power failure they will go anerobic pretty fast then when power is restored a bunch of hydrogen sulfide can be dumped into the system killing stuff. Keep in mind a great deal of the nitrification and denitrification in a reef system is done by corals so systems can be maintained with very little equipment. Here's an example of a system with no filtration: https://youtu.be/x-Ycbwc7xnA https://youtu.be/OoiuSY3Vzf0
  5. Sounds to me like old tank syndrome. It's a problem I run into periodicly with my systems where water parameters are "good" but there is something clearly wrong. As corals and systems age the microbal populations in the system and in the coral holobionts changes and can shift to types potentially pathogenic to corals. You're already doing water changes that are critical to help shift micrbial types back to favorable species. Since this si a small system hat I would also do is a major overhaul. First thing would be to siphon off at least 2/3rds of the aquarium water into buckets. It's important to do this first so the water you're saving won't have any of the crud that's going to get stirred up with the next steps. If you are seeing nuisance algae issues ont hte rock and corals as you remove them scrub them off with a toohbrush (or similar brush) in a bucket with some of the remaining 1/3 tank water, rinse in new saltwater that's at least a few hours old then place in the save tank water that's going back in the tank. Don't scrub off cryptic sponges you'll find on the back sides of the rock and corals, they are essential for recycling the labile DOC in the system. Remove as much of the old sand as possible and replace with live sand (you can use new dry sand but rinse it well and get a couple cups of sand from different system that doesn't have any apparent problems). As sand ages it looses it's buffering capacity (just like calcium reactor media) and the bacteria types shift to those less conducive for keeping corals. Carefully add back corals, rock and original aquarium water then top off with new water. For an introduction to the roles of corals, algae, DOC and how they influence microbial types and populations see Forest ROhwer's Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas.
  6. A description of sulpher denitrification's use at the Aquarium de Musée national de Arts ď Afrique et ď Océanie can be found on page 9 of Seascope V 17pdf here: spectrum-sitecore-spectrumbrands.netdna-ssl.com/~/media/UPG/Files/Instant%20Ocean/SeaScope/Volume%2017_2000.pdf All the issues of Seascope and an index of topics can be found here http://www.instantocean.com/Ocean-of-Knowledge/SeaScope/SeaScope-Index-by-Subject.aspx Delbeek and Sprung have a detailed discussion of the chemistry and effects on seawater of sulfer reactors starting on pg 277 of "The Reef Aquarium" Vol III.
  7. 😬 I think I'll pass.
  8. TRy wiping it off. If it's a bacterial film it will wipe off and you might just siphon the rest off. If not it's probably some type of sponge or fungi. It may be beneficial, especially of it's some type of sponge and is feeding off an increase in labile DOC. What I would be looking out for is any increase in nuisance alga and removing it.
  9. It looks like you probably have both color forms of Diodogorgia nodulifera which is a NPS gorgonian. You're feeding well but they do like a lot of waterflow, from "The Reef Aquarium" Vol 2: "May be kept in light or shade but always where it receives constant strong water motion,"
  10. Here's a good paper describing "ich" by University of Florida. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164 The larval stage (Theront) can take up to 72 days to develop and hatch out from the cyst stage (Tomont) hence the long times given for keeping a system fallow. From the summary of the Florida paper: "Quarantine of any new fish for 30–90 days before introducing them into an established population will provide time for observation, treatment, and reduction of spread. Source water should also be considered a potential reservoir, and, therefore, should be handled appropriately. In addition, any equipment, tank structures, or other inert materials should be disinfected properly prior to reuse in other systems. Clinically healthy fish that have survived an infection may act as carriers. Similarly, slow developing or dormant tomonts in the environment may act as a reservoir." Consideirng all the problems animals can have that we cannot identify or do anything about, if practical, the longer you quarantine the better. Also keep in mind you have no idea of how an animal was treated before you received it. In my maintenance business I've purchased groups of animals of the same species (fish and inverts), quarantined them, then placed them in different tanks and then seen the whole group die within weeks of each other months after being placed in different display tanks. Even though an animal may look healthy it may take weeks to months for problems to develop.
  11. Ouch! I would definitely do an iodine or coral RX dip. Getting stung can cause a shift in the colony's holobiont and a secondary "brown jelly" infection that can work it's way across a healthy looking colony. If practical, returning it to the same lighting and flow conditions it was growing under might help reduce some of the stress the colony is experiencing.
  12. Guessing Elvis is pushing 30 this year! Here's a current video. The Blonde Naso was rehomed January 2018 to This system. It was bought in 2004, was about 6" total length and streamerless. https://youtu.be/OoiuSY3Vzf0
  • Create New...