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Timfish last won the day on March 11

Timfish had the most liked content!

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About Timfish

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  • Location
    North Central
  • Tank Size
    140 gal.
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  1. Generally, not always, when a coral does not expand as much as it did in another tank it's because the light level is higher so it does not need to expand s much to get the same amount of light. Constantly moving it is not good for it either so be patient trying to find it's sweet spot.
  2. Personally I would not worry about nitrates. We can't test for organic nitrogen, amino acids and urea, and the corals and algae are using those up along with ammonia as fast as they can. Nitrates will go up if the corals are disrupted so they are not feeding or if there's not enough phosphate for them to utilize nitrogen (and if a tank is being overfed but if you haven't changed the amount being fed in weeks you shouldn't change now). If there's enough phosphate the nitrate levels won't have any effect on the coloration of the corals. If there's not enough phosphate it's not the nitrates in the water but the internal imbalance that makes corals very sensitive to light and temperature changes..
  3. Did you recently increase the light levels of increase the amount of time they are on? Because it looks to me like just the areas that get the most intense light are damaged. The brown algae looks like Lungbia cyano so your nitrates are probably pretty low. You do want to keep siphoning it off, daily if neccessar. Let us know what the parameters are including PO4.
  4. Requirement was I had to mount the lights flush in a balcony above and in front of the tank as your standing looking at the tank. Lights are offset about 2' so it's roughly a 30° angle. Atypically this makes the bottom front the area with the lowest PAR levels because of a shadow line caused by the front glass. Is it warm!? It's d@mn HOT if I'm on a step stool working over the top!
  5. Yeah, it was really fun figuring out aquascaping that would be seen not only from all directions but with the way light is refracted and reflected from very different angles besides what is typically seen from directly in front or from a side. I was a bit apprehensive designing the lights. They are a long way from the tank and offset from the front. I was pleasantly surprised, to say the least, that I got such high PAR levels on the back side of the aquascaping. I'll do another video after the handrail is done on the glass railings. I've got a couple mangorves now on the island.
  6. I hope you're patient! I have one that's started making a groove down the stalk last year and just in January had two separate feet.
  7. If it's one of the tiny baby polyps that start around the perimeter of a mature polyp they will grow and eventually form a new colony. Frogspawn can tolerate very low light, just a few PAR so if the pieces have a skeleton they can survive and grow in low light conditions. If the pieces are just part of a tenticle that broke off I'm with Peter and Mike, they probably won't survive.
  8. Looks good to me. But when are you going to upgrade to LEDs?
  9. I've run into it with other brands but not Kessil. The LEDs are surface mount so it take special tools and some experience to replace them. If the whites are working you could just supplement with a tuna blue.
  10. Only problem I've run into with a system getting some direct early morning light was an 16" bubble coral colony that would open and close with the rising and setting of the sun and not when the lights turned on or off.
  11. I hear ya! Just think how many more people would be interested in saving the reefs if they were prettier!
  12. If you had that kind of growth rate in a month I'd say you have an ideal amount of zooxanthellae. In our quest for colors it's very rarely passed on to new aquarists that brown is the healthiest color a coral can have. (Of course there's other causes of browning besides zooxantheallae.) Not having to make fluoorescing or chromo proteins to protect the zooxantheallae means there's more energy the coral can put into growing. As you add lights to bring out colors be very patient, it takes a coral weeks to months to make new fluorescing and chromo proteins. If colors show up as son as you make a change to the spectrum then the colors were already there but the ratio of color spectrums wasn't conducive to showing them. Also, a lot of problems are blamed on PO4. Look at the distribution of PO4 in the oceans and you'll see lowest on reefs and reefs may see levels as high as 2.0 mg/l. And PO4 may be the reason your frag grew so fast. Phosphate is a limiting nutrient for a coral to use nitrogen and there is a direct corelation bewteen coral growth and increasing PO4 at levels normally found on reefs.
  13. Hey, Mike told me about your thread and I thought I'd chime in. In a small tank like your using a bubbler is all I think you would need. (If Lee Chin Eng could keep corals and fish with just bubbles 70 years ago I don't see why you can't do it now.) You have options for lighing it you want to make something that fits inside your lid. LED supply lets you custom configure 3-up led stars: http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/custom-3-up-cree-high-power-led And Luseonstar has 7 LED stars you can customize: http://www.luxeonstar.com/any-7-rebel-leds-mounted-on-a-7-led-round-sinkpad As far as the hitchhiker on the frogspawn skeleton I kinda think it looks like a juvinile Anthelia and I would get rid of it unless that's all you want in your jar a year from now.
  14. Caught one of my urchins releasing gametes. I was lucky enough to get a top view also, it starts about halfway through.
  15. I really hate it when I see any recommendation based on length of fish. This has only a very loose correlation to the total weight or biomass of a fish and there's no allowance for overall size of fish. For example a 6" foxface is considerably more biomass than four 3" chromis. Another problem, and this is demonstrated with some of the above discussion, is adult sizes are not always taken into consideration.