Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • JamesL

      Can't Create A Post? Please Read.   01/18/2017

      Finding that you can't create a post in a specific forum? Please see the membership changes that took effect in early 2012. You must be a Premium Member to post items in certain forums.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Timfish last won the day on September 24

Timfish had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

599 Exalted

About Timfish

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Central
  • Tank Size
    140 gal.
  • Gender

Controller Integration (Signature)

  • Controller Enabled
  1. Elvis is 20 . . . at least

    Here's a current video of the Purple Tang. The Sailfin that has been with it for a few years now has treid to be dominate for a few months now. The Purple obviously isn't having it and the Sailfin is going to be rehomed after the holidays.
  2. What's happening everyone?

    Who are you and how did you find this website?!
  3. Is this a parasite?

    If I saw this situation in any of my tanks I would be installing a big UV sterilizor or pulling out the fish to treat them in QT and leaving the DT empty of fish for 11 weeks. Like Ty I do not worry too much about a few spots but established reef systems are not conducive for ich to reproduce. Corals and sponges will be thinning out larva, there's and a lot of stuff growing on rocks so the adults have a harder time finding spots to attach to and encyst and there's animals cleaning off the rocks removing some of the cysts that do form. You don't have any of this yet in your system and my guess is you're seeing a the 2nd generation and in about 8 - 12 days you'll see the 3rd.
  4. Need advice please

    That's a good book too! There is an important typo on pg 349. The maximum nitrate level for wild reefs should be 3.34 ppm, not 3034 ppm. Borneman wrote a good handbook that gave parameters for some corals by species. He and Sprung are the only two I know of who tried to point out we need to look at the environmental needs of individual species and not use the colloquial terms "SPS" or "LPS" so often used to denote husbandry requirements. After you've finished part 2 here's another one on microbes http://changingseas.tv/episode402.html I don't know how far you've chased Rohwer's references yet but another researcher is Andreas Haas.
  5. Need advice please

    No I haven't, great video! Thank You! This follows his book "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas" fairly closely. Some the info Rohwer presented here has also been in some of the videos his lab has done under the Youtube account name "Marinephage", a lot of thier videos are on other subjects and are pretty interesting.
  6. RODI recs and question

    TDS in Austin tapwater can be 400 -450. Since most of it's calcium I don't worry about it too much. Most of my systems get just RO, some tap w/ dechlorinator and one gets RO/DI. This system is one using just tap. If you feel more comfortable using RO or RO/DI by all means get one but you can have nice reef systems without them and the ammonia and PO4 that's removed by them can be a source of food for corals.
  7. Algae scrubber

    Yes, Dr. Adey developed algae scrubbers specifically for that reason roughly 40 years ago. By removing the algae that grows PO4 and Nitrate can be kept very low. (One mistake Adey made was assuming reefs only had .003 mg/l PO4, in reality reefs on average have .13 mg/l or 40X higher than what Adey considered "typical".) Cheato in a refugium will perform the same function and GFO will remove PO4. What's overlooked is corals are competing with algae and aggressively removing inorganic and organic phosphate and inorganic and organic nitrogen. Coupled with the research showing algae, particularly turf and macro algae, also promote increased heterotrophic microbial activity and microbial activity pathogenic to corals I would advise against setting up an ATS.
  8. Algae scrubber

    This is my preferred paper towel. "Multiusos" transliterates as "wipes algae off glass and acrylic aquariums"
  9. Algae scrubber

    Yup. Anybody who's seen my handtruck or the back door of my van knows I use magnets ans have quite a variety including DIY ones that put to shame anything commercially available. While I probably use them 98% of the time they don't physically remove much, the scrubbing action flushes most of the algae off and looking edgewise at the inside face of glass or acrylic it can be seen redepositing sometimes in just an hour or so. Using paper towels as I outlined above does a pretty good job removing algae from the system.
  10. Algae scrubber

    This technique using paper towels might help with algae films on glass. I prefer the blue shop towels but any papaer towel that holds up to a little scrubbing when wet will work. Each towel should be tossed after each swipe to minimize any algae getting back in the tank. Some of it may be some type of turf or hair algae that will need a steel or plastic scraper to be removed.
  11. I’d plz

    Thank You! It helps keep our brains young! I'm expecting my reefs to help me live forever!
  12. What equipment can you not live without?

    I guess lighting but even that is pretty variable depending on the animals I'm keeping.
  13. Algae scrubber

    Just use some cheato if you think you need it. With all the research showing how detrimental the DOC produced by algae is to corals I would strongly advise against using an ATS. Corals and algae are also competing for the same nutrients and stripping out PO4 and nitrates often just give algae the upper hand, see my thread on fixing nuisance algae.
  14. Sort of ran into an issue.

    What Ty said. If they just went around the baseboards with a hand sprayer it's always been some type of boric acid when I've checked into it and I've never had a problem with it being used in a house around tanks.
  15. I’d plz

    What's the wattage of your fixture? My suspicion is you have way to much blue light for most corals to thrive. Using this toadstool as an example it's green coloration is from fluorescing proteins it makes to get rid of blue light. It's impossible for me to say with any certainty without having a better idea of how much light your tank is actually getting but I would suggest experiementing with initially much less blue light and maybe more white than blue. Keep in mind it takes weeks to months for corals to adjust their fluorescing and chromo proteins to changes in lighting conditions so keep track of the changes you make and the time you waited between changes. I would also suggest increasing the frequency and/or amount of water changes, it looks like you have a mix of cyano and other nuisance algae and it will react faster to changes than your corals. To limit or slow it down I would be siphoning it off more aggressively.