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Timfish last won the day on May 15

Timfish had the most liked content!

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About Timfish

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    140 gal.
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  1. Fish Tank Creates Gateway for Security Breach

    That's an impressive list of what's been found so far "in the wild". However improbable you may think the hack reported by Darktrace may have been, how does it show that the hack they say they found didn't happen? It certainly would be nice if Darktrace gave out all the details of the hack in question but I can understand them wanting to safeguard their clients privacy and not make public knowledge information on how to do the hack. I hope the take away for others reading this is don't be complacent.
  2. Fish Tank Creates Gateway for Security Breach

    Your right it was vague. A friend emailed it and after seeing a discussion on a PBS show that discussed the risks and potential of networked household appliances being hacked I thought I'd pass it along. It's source is DarkTrace.com 2017 global threat report https://www.darktrace.com/resources/wp-global-threat-report-2017.pdf Darktrace.com is a UK company that has AI tools for identifying data breachs. (For those like me who have never heard of the term IoT it stands for "Internet of Things" and is the technology used to link WiFi devices [like smart appliances] to the internet)
  3. https://techtalk.pcpitstop.com/2017/07/25/fish-tank-security-breach/?fishtankbreach=&ad_id=505144&share-ad-id=1
  4. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    Unfortunately the colloquial term "SPS" has no validity as scientific term for describing corals and is worthless for determining the husbandry requirements of a coral. Looking at just the Acropora genus, we as aquarist are only able to keep a fraction of the species, ones which have a wide distribution indicating a very good degree of adaptability. A significant majority of the Acroporas have mutually exclusive environmental requirements. If the colloquial term "SPS" had any relevance what works for one acropora would work for every acropora. As to whether feeding fish provides enough nitrogen AND phosphate depends a great deal on the fish biomass, something not easily determined, and the amount of food fed each day. We also cannot test for the amount of organic phosphate in a system. Running a system with unnaturally low PO4 levels may work but it may be becasue there's enough organic phosphate in the system. And unfortunately coloration is not a good indicator of the health of a coral. A significant portion of a corals immune system depends on it's symbiotic zooxanthellae. While some of the techniques we aquarists have developed that promote what we consider "ideal" colors when these techniques infringe on a corals ability to grow and maintain healthy levels of symbiotic zooxanthellae that give a coral it's brown coloration we are in fact seriously impacting a corals immune system and it's ability to adapt and survive. (I wonder how "SPS" got a reputation as being "difficult". ) One of the surprises when I started questioning the assumptions about how to maintain reef systems based on my experiences was the distribution of PO4 in the ocean. WHile it was true some reefs have very low PO4, <.05, it was just a tiny, tiny fraction. Additionally, looking through Veron's "Corals of the Indo-Pacific and Australia", these reefs were just as likely to have so called "LPS" as "SPS". Quite a contradiction to what newbies are often told about "LPS" needing "dirty" water. To see PO4 levels in reality drop from ~.7 mg/l away from reefs to an average of .13 mg/l it's was obvious to me the reason PO4 is low in reefs is because corals are sucking it up.
  5. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    H2O2 is hydrogen peroxide. Phosphate is a limiting nutrient for corals to utilize nitrate. Are you happy with your tank as is? I ask because I would be trying to raise phosphate so the corals can do a better job of using up the nitrates. But the best way is to add more fish (qt first) and start feeding more. But algae will respond faster than the corals so it's critical to add a couple urchins and keep removing algae manually along with water changes. But if your happy with your tank you can stick with just periodic water changes.
  6. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    Your corals look healthy and you don't have what I would consider an algae issue but it it bothers you, you can use a syringe with H2O2. Hold the end of the syringe against the rock where the algae attaches to kill the "holdfast" at the base. You need to be careful not to use more than 1 or 2 cc's at a time and wait a day or two before continuing treatment. I am curious what your PO4 level is. Do you feel you're corals growth has slowed down recently?
  7. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    I realize this is heretical but I would stop worrying about nitrates. I would continue with weekly ~10% water changes and manual algae removal. If you are using GFO I would remove it. I don't know what corals you have but I would add some easy soft corals and easy mushroom polyps. Be patient, I would expect it to take several months to fix this problem. Can you post some pictures? I'm curious how much algae you have and what corals yo have look like. I've seen nitrate numbers off the scale when remediating algae problems and they typically start falling after corals start growing again. (My reasoning for removing GFO if you are using it is phosphate is essential for corals and algae to utilize ammonia and nitrate. You are not feeding very much and if you have an algae problem not only is the algae competing for phosphate but algae is also releasing types of DOC that have a negative impact on corals giving algae the upper hand. Along with increasing the available phosphate if it's been dropped below natural levels (.13 mg/l is average on reefs) you will need to add herbivores and increase your manual removal of the algae. For herbivores I would add two or three Royal urchins, they don't bother corals (Diadem species might nibble on some corals if they can't get enough algae) and they feeding removes the" holdfast" algae has making it harder for it to regrow.)
  8. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    Has it occurred to you proceeding might be the best way to reduce nitrates? I stopped worrying about nitrates years and years ago and in my experience there's not an association between high nitrates and algae. And when some kind of disruption does cause high nitrates they drop on their own as corals recover, start growing and start removing more ammonia. Here's a good video by one of the curators at the Steinhart Aquarium who has nitrates in his stony reef tank comparable to yours:
  9. DE (diatomaceous earth)

    DE used in a canister filter with a pleated filter cartridge is able to filter out very, very small particles even bacteria. Because it's so efficient it clogs very fast and is not practical using long term. It's not going to remove nitrates. Can you give a little more info on what you are trying to do or fix?
  10. Raising Alkalinity

    Are your corals happy? If so I wouldn't try raising alkalinity or calcium fast. This should not be misconstrued as advocating low alkalinity but biological processes in your tank are playing with alkalinity so even though your tests may show it's low your corals may be getting enough to be healthy and grow. If you are tracking it closely you should also not be surprised if the numbers do not track what a dosing guideline dictates.
  11. Sump build acrylic supplier and cutting

    #40 is a lot more work to use but it gives a much stronger glue joint and does not have the propensity of solvent types to develop crazing over time that weakens the glue joint. (I've seen sumps I was able to pull apart.) You need a good scale, the one I use is +/- .5 gram. I use tiny chips of acrylic but the pin method is workable but they need to be left in until the 2-part sets so they will leave small gaps, not much of an issue unless the pins go all the through the joint. #40 is about the viscosity of 80 or 90 weight oil so you'll need to use an applicator to get it into the joint and it helps to have the parts set so the glue runs into the joint.
  12. Sump build acrylic supplier and cutting

    Either should be fine but I use Austin Plastics on Krammer Ln. If you use Sci-Grip's 2-part #40 it will bridge gaps and gives a much stronger joint than the single part #3, #4 or #16. #40 does give off lots of VOCs while curing so you need to have very good ventilation. When using #40 there needs to be a 1mm gap between the pieces and the pieces need to be held in place for 30 minutes or so while it cures.
  13. Green Hair Algae Control

    What Mike said. If anything when I deal with a hair algae problem I see nitrates and phosphates increase from the reduced demand. Get Rohwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas" for an overview of the processes in reef systems and the role of DOCs (Dissolved Organic Carbon). What corals do you have in your system to compete with algae for the ammonia and phosphate being released by your fish? Also keep in mind it takes 8-12 months for a system to mature and hair algae is part of that maturing process, how old is your system?
  14. Crumby news about the Great Barrier Reef

    Just so sad! Throw in over fishing, especially sharks, and it may take just years, not decades to destroy it.
  15. Rainbow acan echinata large piece

    I'm curious also to see specifics on identifying this coloration pattern/combination as a viral infection. I know fluorescing and chromo proteins along with melanin are important components of a corals immune system and there can be localized coloration or even colony wide changes without changes in lighting or water parameters. We still don't know much about how corals react to viruses. (The Tulip Breaking Virus though is a fascinating botanical example a virus causing permanent changes in color. Due to it's contagiousness it's illegal to own and propagate although the Dutch maintain some demonstration examples.) Some coral species/genotypes have the DNA to code for a lot more colors than are expressed at any one time so having a colony with multiple colors certainly doesn't have to be caused by a pathogen/injury/parasite. Maintaining the right environment so a particular colony that is able to make a range of fluorescing and chromo proteins keeps a prefered combination of colors can be a bit of a challenge.