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Timfish

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About Timfish

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    North Central
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    140 gal.
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  1. Acropora millepora frags for genomics

    Yeah, it's a bit concerning. If all blue millies turn out to be the same clone line and they all show the degraded DNA Ty's sample did worst case scenario we may not be able to breed them in captivity and end up losing the clone line in the future. Definitely but there's the issue of variation in color due to environmental factors, mostly light intensity but nutrition plays a role too. Funding. We need to send money to your lab c/o UT, correct? Is there a research or job #? And am I safe in thinking it'll be tax deductible?
  2. Acropora millepora frags for genomics

    Dam*, this thread is just raising more and more questions and I don't have nearly enough tanks or time. So if we just limited it to Palmer's Blue or maybe just blue A. millie colonies? I've got a Palmer's Blue from Juiceman and another blue but I don't know where the 2nd came from. I know colonies from other families have been shown to have an environmental memory, has any research suggested that for Acroporiids? I certainly see differences between my tanks but I don't have two tanks I would consider identical so I don't really expect the same results.
  3. Acropora millepora frags for genomics

    I realized over a decade ago our systems should live centuries (in my maintenance business I've had systems be inherited and go through multiple owners). I was under the impression though that most corals lived indefinitely so long term propagation by fragging was a viable method to maintain a clone line. I've known some corals like Fungiids had life expectancies of 30 to 40 years but was thinking they were more an exception than the rule. It was quite a surprise when you confirmed Acroporiids also had life a life expectancy when the question of scenesence came up as an explanation for the degraded DNA in Ty's coral. It seems obvious now we really we need to be focusing on sexual reproduction. Fragging does not look viable long term for propagating a species. We're already selecting for genotypes that are highly adaptable but knowing what genotypes we have and track them ideally would help eliminate some of the guesswork when dealing with problems (besides being able to develop new colors ). Correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding a clone line can't self fertilize. Additionally some species look very similar and hybridization is not necessarily viable (or desired if it is). If we're going to be successful we need to be able to identify both genotype and clone line. Picking different colors or chain of custody might work as a surrogate for identifying a clone line but it seems knowing the genotype is still essential. How large of a frag is needed? Are we talking a 5mm piece or a 3 cm piece? Can the sample of 100 be a range of species or does it all have to be, ideally, a single species?
  4. Are these diatoms?

    I would be adding fish and corals as as soon as possible. Corals and fish are critical parts of a mature reef ecosystem. The sooner they are added the sooner you system will mature. As pointed out above your ecosystem will go through cycles which will include a several different types of nuisance algae and manual removal is best to deal with it. I personally prefer royal and/or tuxedo urchins to help with long term algae control as they actually scour off the holdfasts some algae use to attach to rocks.
  5. Sump build acrylic supplier and cutting

    Hmmm, you might try using less catalyst. That will extend the pot life and and along with using thinner give you more time to get the small bubbles out. You can also tape bothe panels on the inside 3/16" of 1/4" from the joint to give you a straight clean line on the edge of the glue joint.
  6. Here's a current video from this week:
  7. Sump build acrylic supplier and cutting

    I'm curious how you're doing with interior joints? I don't use interior baffles but sometimes when I'm doing a sump in sections or a irregular shape to fit a stand as completely as possible I might end up with interior walls. Here's an interior joint with 1/2". The left side is the taped side with blue painters tape and the right side was "up" when the joint was glued. I could have gone back after finishing applying glue and popped the bubbles that formed on the right side with a dental pick but this would never been seen so I didn't worry about it. The bubbles on the left side are less than a 32" and if I had thinned the glue and jiggled the joint they could have been worked out.
  8. Acropora millepora frags for genomics

    How would an aquarist get their corals genotyped like you've done in your other research and are doing with the millie you got from John?
  9. Green Hair Algae Control

    Short term there may not be any obvious negative effects. A couple years ago a friend of mine who was tired of wiping algae off the glass on his system a couple times a month tried a product that was supposed to get rid of nuisance algae and make the water "crystal clear". It did just that, stopped the algae growth on the glass and water clarity was exceptional. Corals didn't seem to be affected any, bright colors, great polyp expansion. It took him months to notice but it completely stopped coral growth. I'm pretty sure it was not fluconazole and I do not know anything about fluconazole but I wouldn't use it without some kind of assurance it would not effect the coral holobiont.
  10. Green Hair Algae Control

    I've seen lots of miracle cures over the ydecades and they disappear almost as fast as they appear. What's the medium and long term effect on coral and the the coral holobiont? It may not be able to be taken up by a coral and have a negative effect on the internal symbionts but a significant portion of the holobiont is on the surface of coral. These include various cyanobacteria and I don't see how it could kill off nuisance algae without effecting them.
  11. Elevated Remote Water Storage for ATO

    That's a good question. I can say I've had the optical type and the magnetic float type switches work for years but float valves sooner or later either get stuck open or clog closed. One difference is using a pump with an optical or magnetic float type switch there's not a restriction, at least with the setups I've used, in the plumping like there is with a float valve where, with all the float valves I've used, there is small hole that can get clogged or a small piece of detritus can get in the way and not let it close all the way. A pump will also do a petter job af flushing out "gunk" that might form in the plumbing.
  12. Hair Algae, a second case study

    Thank you! That the majority of my clients I've had for over a decade is a good indicator too. I definitely turned it off on purpose. Look at Feldman's research I listed in my third post here. Skimmers are doing two things detrimental to the long term health of reef systems. First they are really screwing with the balance of microbial species in a reef system removing species that have hyrophobic qualities. They are removing the labile forms of DOC sponges use to recycle carbon and nutrients in a reef system. It is true all I'm doing is manual removal and using urchins to recycle nutrients for corals to use. Since algae is disappearing from where neither I or urchins or snails or hermit crabs can get to the "holdfast" to stop algae from growing back quickly argues what is happening is a fundamental shift in the equilibrium of the system that favors corals over algae. Dr. Forest Rohwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas" is an excellent starting place to learn more about this.
  13. Hair Algae, a second case study

    Thank You!
  14. Elevated Remote Water Storage for ATO

    I would use a pump controlled by a float switch. On the output of the pump you'll need to have a small anti-siphon hole above the water line in the ATO tank so when the pump shuts off a siphon can't get started because air is pulled into the line. Setting it up like this you will get water out of the anti-siphon hole which needs to be directed down into the ATO tank. You can also just put a float valve in your sump but I would not trust it, sooner or later "stuff" will get into it and cause problems.
  15. Thought I'd post another thread on getting rid of nuisance algae. This system is a 4 year old ~200 gallon 4' tall half cylinder on a 42" tall stand. Previous maintenance companies had tried to deal with it with gfo, algae reducing products and reduced feeding (once per week). The first thing we did was remove about half the rock and scrub it off. The first water change was ~25 gallons. We also removed gfo, turned off the skimmer. With the 2nd week we dropped to just 5%-7% weekly water changes with tap water. We also added an auto-feeder set to 8 small daily feedings, ~1-2 grams Spectrum pellets daily total (X6 or X7 for approximate frozen weight). Several urchins were added, a long spine, short spine pink and royal urchins and a couple Mexican Turbos (DO NOT ADD TO MANY SNAILS! short spine urchins like Tuxedo or Royal are the best options since they chew the algae "holdfasts" off rocks ). I removed the squirrel fish partly because it was seriously under weight 😕 The sump was setup to use a filter sock which I used a few times to help remove stuff but was permanently removed in August. The finger corals are gradually being removed, my client doesn't like them but I needed them to compete with the algae until other corals get going. March 3rd April 27. Here's what it looks like during a scrubbing. The height makes it impossible to get to spots even with a scrub brush with an extended handle (I stuck it in a section of PVC). Some of the sand was siphoned off with water changes, rinsed and dumped back in. June 15. A little nit of cyano started to show up. (This didn't happen in Mike's tank.) It was just siphoned off with water changes. July 6. Here's a weeks worth of cyano growth. July 20. And the cyano has stopped. (This step has taken longer in other systems.) August 8. Still got some hair algae showing up but this is 3 weeks worth. Last week.
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