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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I feel bad for never updating this thread...just not much happening with the tank. I finally got my PO4 up and stabilized in the .1 - .15 range consistently for about the last month. It had been staying around .03 -.04. And of course with that comes more algae!!!!! Got home Sunday and saw my CSB was ready for its closeup. The disc is now around 6" - 7" across.
  2. 3 points
    It finally happened. It took us some time because we ended up jacking and cribbing each side then sliding furniture dollys underneath. It has now been moved into my extra room. Redoing the flooring and painting so maybe before the end of year I'll have it in.
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    BC Teen Wolf WG123 Blueberry Wine (in real life looks like a bright indigo blue but hard to capture on camera) Green slimer... Classic Oregon tort... Another classic AQUASD Rainbow Mille - still my favorite mille
  5. 2 points
    Starting my new build now that I am finally back in Austin. 50 Gallon Zoo Med low boy on a custom aluminum stand, running a 39" Trigger Systems sump and Rollermat, Haven't decided on lights yet. Drilled the tank today at RCA and drew up the stand design. Starting to cut the aluminum tomorrow morning.
  6. 2 points
    What can we do to get the community back and get this forum rollin again? While I have not contributed as much in past year or so (mainly so I didn't buy anything!), I've checked in occasionally and I'm bummed to see the lack of activity compared to what it used to have. I am paying more attention to my tank(s) lately and therefore checking back to these forums more often. I see many new faces - experienced and new reefers - on the FB page(s) who are asking questions and getting answers. This would be a better ...forum... for that activity than FB. It offers better organization via categorization and most importantly is a better research and learning tool via archives. Many of the conversations and questions I see on FB have been covered extensively here and many that haven't, should be, in my opinion. Let's make this more than @FarmerTy personal area to show off! Ideas? Am I just old and FB is the new way? From what my kids tell me, FB is for the old people. I hear @Photodude (jakedoza) has been working to get TOTM since it was last presented in 2010. Let's give him that chance!
  7. 2 points
    The rubber floor mats arrived. I cut 2" off the 2'x3' mats so they'd fit in the closet: I laid down the 3'x5' mat under the stairs and took the remnants from the closet pieces to use as a support the ATO (That round thing in the upper-right corner is the automated emergency sump-pump). PLUMBING UPDATE: I'm challenged to prioritize/visualize which aspect of the plumbing to tackle first. I feel the need to have the whole system laid out before cutting a single pipe. RETURN FROM SUMP TO DRAIN: Originally, my priority was to layout all the drain-line plumbing. Then, I realized that the display's return pump could also serve the dual-purpose of draining the sump for water changes. The return-line is closed during water changes, so I could simply redirect the return pumps flow from the display to the drain. This would eliminate the need for a dedicated pump for water changes. This has a cascading effect, as it impacts return-line plumbing to the display. It brings into question the intentions for the manifold over the sump (reactors, U/V filter, spare lines, and possibly the chiller). Ultimately, I'm left trying to plan ahead for all possibilities of what might be attached to the system. My head's spinning. Many possibilities, many considerations ...this is going to take some time! What's attached to your display?
  8. 2 points
    Sadly, we lost a few corals after running into some issues with source water. This is the same problem as last year and I hope it's not an annual event. All of the RODI filters were changed and it looks like we're back on track! One of the long-term goals that I have had is to establish an in-line frag tank and I found a spare tank online in April. I took the first steps to getting that set up this weekend and made a video for fun!
  9. 2 points
    I was Able To Pick Up These Two Amazing Piece From Dung Phan !
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    WOW that's some huge frogspawn colonies.
  12. 2 points
    For Sale: Mike’s Reef / Fish food (frozen) 5 oz flat pack = $10 10 oz flat pack = $18 PM to coordinate local pick up in Cedar Park / North Austin area. Product is finely blended into varying sizes that are easily consumed by all fish, shrimp, and corals. For comparison Rods Food 2 oz sells for $10 online and their 6 oz varieties sell for $20. LRS Reef Frenzy 4 oz sell for $12 and 8 oz sells for $22. Ingredients: salmon; tuna; squid; octopus; shrimp; cuttlefish; mussel; scallops; mysis shrimp; cyclops; brine shrimp; Vita C; minced garlic; Selcon; Marine Snow; green Nori; spinach; carrots; broccoli; seaweed; reef and veggie pellets; reef flakes; fish eggs (roe); krill; Garlic x; vitamins A, B and C; RO water.
  13. 2 points
    The ventilation fan arrived! I went with the AirTitan T7 crawl space fan. It came with their standard setup, which is "exhaust" mode. I had to unscrew the fan unit and reverse the fans to convert the airflow to "intake" mode to accommodate the airflow direction I was seeking. That part went pretty smoothly, and having installed the fan, I can endorse this model. https://www.acinfinity.com/home-ventilation/crawl-space-basement-fans/airtitan-t7-crawl-space-and-basement-ventilation-fan-12-temperature-and-humidity-controller-ip-44-rated/ It also has the remote temperature/humidity controller, which makes for a clean install. The display shows the temperature (73) and humidity (66) is holding pretty close to the ambient temperature of the house. It's a relatively humid day outside, and I'm still not totally pleased with the humidity level in the house. The only way to bring that down is to make the house much cooler by setting the homes A/C waayyy down (below where I'm comfortable in the house). Alternatively, I could invest in a whole-house humidifier. That's an expensive solution that I'm not prepared to make right now. I'll just have to keep my eye one the variables and see how it performs, once the sump is installed in the fish room. I installed the temperature probe for the ventilation controller about six feet away in the under-stairs area of the fish room: The fan box fit neatly into the upper part of the closet area: Exhaust passes through the wall into the adjacent guest bathroom, where it ports right next to the bathroom ventilation fan. I couldn't run a dedicated duct to the exterior house without incurring significant expense, so this was a compromise. The idea is to vent into the bathroom and if the humidity really kicks up, turn on the bathroom fan. I also installed a register vent at the base of the stairs to provide a way for the fish room to "breathe". The air flow comes in from the living room, next to where the display tank will ultimately be: This register vents into the back of the fish room at the base of the stairs. For now, I just set up a basic stand-alone-fan to draw in the air from the living room. The fan is pretty quiet. I don't notice too much sound sitting in the living room with set to "high". It has 3 settings, and while it's definitely working the best on the strongest setting, I may be able to keep it running at a lower setting if it ends up being too loud. My plan is to run this fan 24x7, with the AirTitan set to auto-operation controlled by the thermostat. Overall I think the ventilation solution turned out better than I'd expected. The design I'd seems to be performing the way I intended it to. I won't know how effective it'll be until the whole system is running, but for now I'm feeling pretty good about it! Next, I'm planning to complete the water containment basin. I'm going to install a shower-pan liner around the 2x6 frame. Hopefully this solution works!
  14. 2 points
    Just a quick update for the week, I went ahead and sealed the understair area with a thick coating of weather/mold-resistant paint. After looking at the backside of the drywall, I realized that its just a thin layer of cardboard. The paint seal gives me more comfort and confidence for weathering the potentially humid environment, once the system is up and running. It was challenging to get up under the stairs with the paint brush. Once I got started on it, I found that I couldn't resist sealing off the entire area, including the closet. I also framed out the base of the entire fish room area (including the closet). This is part of my water containment plan. I've been leaning towards the showerpan liner idea with a sump pump - then adding some kind of industrial rubber floor mats to the floor, TBD. I've installed the electric: 1- GFCI Circuit: I attached a long, industrial-grade, 10-outlet power strip to an area that will be above the sump. This is tapped into the GFCI outlet in the guest bathroom, which is one of the design elements I was hoping to incorporate. 2- Switched outlets: I installed an 8-port rocker box over the interior doorway to provide a bank of switchable outlets. This switched box connects to a separate circuit from the GFCI - also a goal I had of the build. I'm looking to distribute the load pulled by the system across multiple circuits. With 2 circuits in the fish room, and a third located at the display, I hope to have plenty of juice, with room to grow, by simply extending the homes existing electrical lines. Lastly, I framed out the coat closet with a pair of 2x6 support beams to serve as the floor of the "upper-level" of the water mixing station. This is where the freshwater tank will go. I was looking for a way to "go high" in the closet to capitalize on all the room I have available. Right now I'm leaning towards a 26 gallon freshwater tank to rest on these support beams next to the RODI unit. The idea is to have the freshwater tank serve as an ATO to the sump, and also feed the salt mixing tank, which will go in underneath it. Allowing the build to "go high", reaching up into the closet area has really freed up a lot of space in the tight quarters I'm working within. This also allows for an unobstructed walkway to go in-and-out of the stairwell area from the coat closet door. Coming up next: I've ordered the ventilation fan, which should be delivered this week, then: 1-Humidity control: I'll complete the installation of the ventilated air-flow design 2-Water Mixing Station: At the planning stage. I'm evaluating which tank sizes are best suited to fit into the allowable space. Then, I'll be looking into different options for building a stand for the salt-mix tank. Lastly, researching various plumbing options. 3-Water Containment: I'd like to get the shower pan liner installed, but I want to wait until the ventilation system is up and running and the mixing station design is further along. Feels good to be making progress on the fish room. 4-weeks into the build and I've accomplished some of the core concepts I was hoping to capture. Now I have a basic structure with plumbing/electric and soon to be ventilated area with water-containment. Feeling confident today - there's plenty of time to be humbled. Love the challenges of this hobby! ...to be continued.
  15. 2 points
    Got dam it Ty. You can grow a turd on a tile if you wanted to...
  16. 1 point
    make sure you can get that sump in and out easy!
  17. 1 point
    Turning this pile of aluminum into a stand tomorrow.
  18. 1 point
    Definitely need to get another frag pack from you now that I am back in Austin!
  19. 1 point
    PLUMBING PART 2: Time to get serious about the salt mixing station and all the plumbing hook ups for the system. BASIC CONNECTION/HOOK UPS: I've already installed basics, connecting to the homes existing plumbing. I've installed access to both water-line-in plumbing (tapped to the bathroom sink), and drain-line-out plumbing (tapped above the P-trap of the bathroom sink) DRAINAGE-OUT-PLUMBING There's 3 (possibly 4) sources for drainage-out I'm planning for: 1- RODI Waste-Water: This one's the simplest. Waste-water discharged out the RODI unit needs to go somewhere. I’m thinking of setting the RODI next to the freshwater tank in the closet, then gravity-feed the waste-line into the drain-line. Done. 2-Emergency containment basin sump drain-line: I'm planning to reduce the fitting on the automated sump pump outlet to 1/2". From there, I'll connect to a 1/2" PVC pipe that runs from the base of the stairs where the sump pump is, up to the upper level of the closet, where the RODI unit is. Somewhere up there, I'll tap into the drain line. I'm researching best way to plumb this. Not sure if a need a check valve to prevent back-flow into the sump or not? 3-System return for water changes: I'd like to connect a pump from the sump's return area to the drain. The idea is to flip a switch, activating the pump, and exporting water from the system, directly into the drain line (no buckets for water changes). Once the sump's been drained to a specified level, I'd refill it by pumping water back into the sump from the salt mixing station. So long as I have an accurate way of measuring the gallons-in / gallons-out, I think this should work? Probably as simple as marking a line on the sump-level targeting a specific gallonage for periodic water changes? 4-Automated water change dosing pump discharge (optional): There's a possibility for connecting an automated water changing system to the build. At this, I'm unsure of including it or not and I'm weighing pros/cons. Manifold Control. The heart of the plumbing for this drainage-out solution is a 3-way, or 4-way manifold. This is needed to provide access for all the drainage discharge sources to feed out to the single bathroom drain. I'm researching various ways to plumb this manifold. It'll probably include ball valves for the emergency sump and system return line, and (if necessary) check valves. I'd prefer to avoid check valves, where possible, as they're potential fail points. WATER-LINE-IN PLUMBING There's a total of 4 (possibly 5) water-lines-into the system I'm contemplating: 1- RODI In: The basic hook up for water-line-in is already plumbed from under the bathroom sink. All that remains is tidying up the lines connecting it to the upper level of the closet where RODI is located. 2 - ATO In: This is a straight-forward run - from freshwater tank in the closet - to the ATO tank next to the sump. Ideally, I'd just T-off the freshwater tank and gravity feed it with a ball valve. 3- Fresh water into the salt water mixing tank: This comes down to a decision between T-ing off the fresh water tank and gravity feeding it, or T-ing directly off the pressurized RODI into the salt water mixing tank. I’ve not decided which way to go. I'm leaning towards T-ing off the RODI. The CON is that it adds another fail-point. The PRO is convenience (It takes substantially less time to fill the salt-mixing-tank directly from the RODI out). 4- Salt Water In (sump): I'm planning a run from the salt-mixing tank into the sump. I imagine a T’ing off the recirculating mixing pump and redirecting flow with a ball valve to a pipe connected to the sump. 5-Automated water change (optional): Depending on whether I decide to include this in the build or not, it'll require a dosing pump with "in/out" connections. The "In" connection between the salt-mixing tank and the sump, and the "out" connection from the sump to the drain-line for discharge. I think this covers the overall design of the more detailed plumbing for the build. I recognize the importance of fish-room plumbing - this is where patience and foresight are critical. I'm taking my time with it. I'll post images of the layout as I go - I know its difficult to visualize all this (It is for me, at least!) Once plumbing is implemented, it can be difficult to alter – all suggestions welcomed!
  20. 1 point
    Thank you! I just ordered a 3'x5' and two 2'x3' of these: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/cactus-mat-3525-c1bx-vip-tuffdek-3-x-5-black-heavy-duty-rubber-anti-fatigue-floor-mat-7-8-thick/844B3525C1.html The 3'x5' should fit under the stair area which is 3'x6'. There'll still be a 12" gap at the end of the containment basin where the ATO and emergency sump pump will sit. I'm cautious to put the acrylic ATO box, with its sharp-edges, directly on the pan liner. So long as I'm careful setting into position it shouldn't be a problem. The pan liner seems pretty durable. The pair of 2'x3' mats should cover the closet area which is 4'x3', but I may have to shave off a bit of the 3' side to accommodate a slightly narrower closet depth (about 35") I also ordered the automated sump pump. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MWG69RN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The extra effort to install a water containment/drainage solution may never be needed (hopefully I'll never experience a major leak or flood). Experience has proved me wrong here. As much precaution as I've put into past builds, there's always been that moment where I flood something, for some reason (usually human error, not equipment failure). Worse case, I just wasted a few hundred bucks and some time, putting in something that never gets used. It might fail when the time comes when it's actually needed. Weighing the pros/cons - I'll gamble on this one! Next, PLUMBING PART 2: The heart of the room, where plumbing goes beyond basic hook-ups.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Run the #4 around the inside of all the seams while its clean. I would then run a bead of #16 in the seams where the trouble spots are. Its thicker and will fill in and seal any gaps.
  23. 1 point
    Roger that. Going to start cleaning it here in a bit, get it all dry, and then my plan is to lay down a towel, some tissue paper over that since it will show up water immediately, and then fill it back up till I see the leak.
  24. 1 point
    The Bellina is looking good. Compare it to the original ORA Bellina picture: https://www.orafarm.com/product/bellina/
  25. 1 point
    Sanding has been completed for at least one side. Still need to stain and epoxy. Going with a walnut stain and I'm thinking just 1 coat shound do it. I'm also going to just lightly sand the other side and just throw 1 coat of epoxy and probably paint the underside inside portion white to help with sump reflectivity and ease of cleaning.
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