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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
  2. 5 points
    The new leather looks great. Fills in that void that I had macros in that did'nt get enough flow on the sand.
  3. 5 points
    Where are you located? I have a tub of LR in the garage I could give you some out of. I’m holding off on my 90 gal, so it’s just sitting there wasting electricity keeping it live [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 5 points
    To me it looks like a lot of new tanks do, going through an ugly phase as it matures. If it was my tank the first thing I would do is get an idea of where my Alk, Calcium, Nitrate, and Phosphate are, I call those the Big 4. I would also want to know where my Magnesium was at and would test it from time to time. Then I would strive to keep the Big 4 stable by regular testing (at least weekly, but I personally test more often than that) and by dosing whatever is needed or removing excesses by changing up feeding habits or by other means (depends on which element we are attacking as to what technique to use) I would also manually remove hair algae and other nuisance algae, and I would use a turkey baster to blow off the rocks regularly. Then I would try to get as much biodiversity in there as possible, as many things to compete for the nutrients, especially at the micro level. I would probably buy some pods and add them, PodYourReef is a good source. I would try to find some micro brittle stars from a local reefer. I would keep up with regular water changes. And once the levels of the big 4 were looking pretty good and also stable I would try to slowly introduce hardy corals to compete with the algae for the nutrients in the water. Around this time I would borrow or rent a PAR meter and see where my lights are at to make sure its all good for corals. This process could take a year or more and takes patience and consistency.
  5. 4 points
    Hey all, I am new to reef keeping. My dad had a tank when I was young and I thought it would be cool to start up a tank. I bought a LED biocube 32 as my first tank. I replaced the media basket with the inTank media basket and I use filter floss with chemipure and purigen. It has been running for about 8 months now. I started with a wrasse, firefish goby, and chalk bass. Unfortunately, I lost the wrasse to an unknown injury that didn’t recover after moving him to a QT. I have a sea urchin, 4 hermit crabs, and 2 snails as well. I would like to get more coral, but so far I only have one torch coral. I bought a hammer coral as well that was doing nicely for a few weeks but then turned south and I lost it as well. I am joining this group to try and learn more and maybe later expand out into a larger tank.
  6. 4 points
    Necessity is the mother of invention. I didn't invent the acclimation box, but I needed one, because I have a fish that needs to be segregated until I can sell him, and I'm not interested in taking 50% (or less) on trade in. By the way: Fish for Sale! Was not interested in spending the money or waiting for mail order, so looked at what I had, and decided I could do something w/ some light diffuser and screen netting, but didn't have enough diffuser grate to make the whole thing out of it, and didn't really want to either - seemed like it would be super bulky. Had decided I would bite the bullet and drive 30min to the Slaughter/35 Home Depot to buy a 1/4" fiberglass rod to cut into pieces as my lengthwise framing. Stopped by the Ace Hardware just to see if there was anything better 10min from my house and found something I didn't expect: plastic clothes hangers. 8 for under $2 or so. Picked up a fresh 100pack of zip ties, and good to go. Turned out pretty darn good!
  7. 3 points
    I agree with Timfish on adding corals as soon as possible, but to clarify I was saying to simply make sure your water parameters are ready for coral before adding them. It would not take long to measure and adjust a few things
  8. 3 points
    This doesn't seem to be common knowledge but corals have cyanobacteria in their holobiont (the unique assemblage of microbes and viruses found on and in a coral) that help fix nitrogen for the coral's use. I would be very hesitant to use chemiclean as the long term affects on a coral's holobiont hasn't been studied. Chemiclean is a different chemical from when I stopped using it many years ago but I also would worry repeated use might develop a super strain of cyano resistant to it. I used to be a fan of the API PO4 test kit as my tests showed at it's low end it seemed to roughly be the same where it overlapped with Elos and Nyos. After getting an ICP test back and the ICP test showed PO4 to be roughly a 1/5th what the API test showed I'm not using the API test kit anymore. I suggest you get with different aquarists and try the different test kits to see which one you like to use best.
  9. 3 points
    What is your nitrate reading? In my experience, one reason we can get cyano is because when nitrates are low that can allow cyano to outcompete other things. It is my understanding that cyano can fix nitrogen like some plants can, and so when other species are nitrate-limited, cyano can gain an advantage. On the other hand if nutrients are high across the board (nitrate and phosphate) then everybody gets to party including the cyano. It can also be simply lights running too high intensity. So tell us a little more ...
  10. 2 points
    Got some sunny D, rainbow infusion, nirvana I can frag as well.
  11. 2 points
    Redid my aquascape and captured a quick video! 20190602_184447.mp4
  12. 2 points
    Sorry for the late reply the tank is still at the restaurant me con bistro in austin, light just died but the fish are still alive, I have been busy as of recently so haven’t posted or done anything with the tank! Thanks for asking! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 2 points
  14. 1 point
    So I added about 15 lbs of dry rock to the 20 lbs of live rock already in the tank to aquascape it a bit better. Jolt hooked me up with some great corals that I have been keeping toward the front to acclimate. In the next day or two I want to move them to rock and hopefully get everything going. I'm thinking about moving this to over to a tank build to try and document the process my tank makes as I learn more and more since this has gotten a bit away from the cyanobacteria discussion. Current parameters: PO4 - 0 Mg - 1320 Ca - 410 pH - 8 KH - 11.2 NO3 - 10 Salinity - 1.024 I got my Mg and Ca up; however, the KH went up even more so I need to try and figure out how to address that. The NO3 is also getting a bit high
  15. 1 point
    +1 on the Wrasse. I had an outbreak of those that shot up overnight. I tried two rounds of flatworm exit, and it temporarily reduced populations, but they would bounce back. After adding a Saowisata wrasse (Halichoeres binotopsis ) they were eradicated. I presume any Wrasse in the Halichoeres genus will work. Good luck with your duo of hunters!
  16. 1 point
    Trade for a well fed platinum clown fish? 512-785-4758
  17. 1 point
    I agree they look pretty good. I would say calcium could come up a bit and alk could come down a bit. Raising the Mg should help the calcium raise as well, you need the higher magnesium to achieve the higher calcium. I think the lower NO3 may be contributing a little to the cyano, because cyano can survive better in lower nitrate situations than other competitors. I try to keep mine closer to 5ppm. I see no reason why you should not continue to add coral with those parameters, as long as it is hardy coral. Then let the competition for those nutrients begin!
  18. 1 point
    Photos from my recent diving and snorkeling trip in Hurghada, Egypt.
  19. 1 point
    I am down south of Slaughter and Manchaca intersection. That would be awesome, but I wouldn't want to be an inconvenience or slow down your own tank progress when you decide to start it back up. As far as adding some easy corals, it looks like some good ones would be star polyps, brain coral, maybe another hammer. I started with the scrubbing on the algae today during my weekly water change... hopefully, I will have some of the test kit stuff by next weekend and can work on getting this tank looking a bit better!
  20. 1 point
    It's really fascinating what researchers are uncovering about the roles of DOC, microbes and reef health. Rohwer's book is an excellent place to start but there has been tons of new research since then. Corals and algae both release compounds into the water that fall under the label of Dissolved Organic Carbon, DOC. The DOC corals produce promotes autotrophic microbial processes the I find easiest to think of as oxygen enriching. The DOC algae produces promotes heterotrophic microbial processes that are oxygen depleting and promote pathogenic bacteria on corals. The amount of DOC released by algae also varies considerably by species with what we colloquially call hair algae or nuisance algae being one of the worst. Algae and corals are also competing for the phosphate and nitrogen (in all their various forms) that is available in aquariums. I would advise against adding more than what you are feeding your fish while your tank is maturing. Be aware research has shown high nitrates and low phosphates can seriously compromise a coral by disrupting it's relationship with it's zooxanthellae. I have systems, fish and corals that are decades old without having to add beyond what is in fsih food. If it helps for refference my ICP test results for one of my systems is here: http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/40758-icp-test-results-90-gallon-mixed-reef-w-tapwater/ I never try to eradicate all the algae. I wouldn't do more than 10% water change per week trying to get rid of it. I just try to keep it knocked back until the equilibrium of the ecosystem takes over. Keep in mind while your system is maturing it is easy to exacerbate a problem by trying to hard to fix it. Like Jolt pointed out above patience is important here for success. A Tuxedo or Royal urchin will help but they like to drag frags around which can be annoying. I prefer hermit crabs to snails, they have a longer life expectancy in my experience.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for all y'alls help and suggestions... I'm starting to price check some of these things to get an idea of how much it would cost to get things moving on this front. Right now, I'm thinking I will get the following: Salifert test kits for the things not covered in my API kit (I don't think I will take the dive on the more expensive Hanna checkers yet... although I do really like the digital readout. The color comparison always has me second guessing myself) Various nutrients to dose and correct levels; thinking to just go with brightwell as of right now for simplicity It sounds like I might need more CUC. I looked at the PodYourReef website, but I am really not sure which copepod species would be best... also I am a bit concerned if I don't have anything that feeds on them could their breeding get out of control and overwhelm my reef? More live rock... from looking at other tanks I'm tempted to rearrange my live rock and add some to build up along the back wall.. this will give me a grading of height for coral placement for various corals that need more/less light. Are there any trusted resources for maricultured or wild that you would suggest? Does this just contain more biodiversity than getting it from my local shop? I will try to get that stuff and get my water tested and everything in proper balance... I will work on scrubbing at the hair algae and then add some corals. Do I need to try and add larger frags or is starting with some small ones okay? I didn't really understand that adding more corals would help combat the algae. I got spooked losing the hammer coral and was very hesitant to expand into anything else. For the hair algae, is there detrimental effects of having it in the tank or does it just look bad? If I rearrange the rock, some of it might end up underneath or something... Do I need to make sure it is gone or will it matter?
  22. 1 point
    To give an example of my concerns about using or adding additives or equipment that may disrupt the microbial balance in either our reef systems or our coral's holobiont I'm going to point to the problems with Clostridium difficile, aka C. diff, (see also this TEDMED talks video). C. diff infections often gets started after being taking antibiotics that disrupt a person's microbiome letting C. diff proliferate. In the past additional anitbiotics typically prescribed, often with little effect, but with a better understanding of of the human microbiome C. diff infections are now often treated with probiotics and fecal transplants to restore a healthy microbiome. We often look for immediate solutions and we want to see immediate results. It's my belief if we take care of them properly our reef systems should last decades, if not centuries. Looking at what we are learning about how critical healthy microbial processes are to our own health (and sustainable farming has the same corallation with healthy microbiomes) as well as my own experiences with systems, corals and fish I've had for decades, my first thought when I do something with my reefs is what effect will it have on the various and complex microbiomes, is there research which shows this product, equipment or technique will have a negative impact. But to answer your question about your hammer I doubt the chemiclean was the primary reason(s) it died. For getting rid of the algae I would only do manual removal like Jolt said (see my beta video on using stainless steel straws in the video section). Another technique I started using over 2 decades ago was using some water from a healthy and mature reef system to help with additional bacteria (it was gratifying reading about researchers using bacteria transplants and infusions to restore a healthy microbiome ) I also would not worry about getting rid of it right away or in a single cleaning. Look at my two threads on nuisance algae, Hair ALgae 1 and Hair ALgae 2, in both cases the algae disappeared with only manual removal AND it disappeared from nooks and crannies where I couldn't get with a toothbrush or where the urchins couldn't get. At some point there was a fundamental shift in the ecosystem that favored corals over algae. (Forest Rohwer discusses this shift in the equilibrium of an ecosystem in ch. 5 of his book Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas.) Since corals are proactively promoting autotrophic microbial processes (think oxygen enriching, use the search terms Haas, DOC, DCNS on scholar.google.com if you have a weekend ) my advice differs from Jolt's in that I would be adding easy corals right away to both compete against the algae for nutrients and help promote autotrophic processes. I do strongly urge at least some wild or maricultured live rock to get some beneficial cryptic sponges that will help cycle DOC (Dissolved Organic Carbon, another thick subject) but I only use 1/4 to 1/2 lb per gallon.
  23. 1 point
    http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/
  24. 1 point
    If anybody missed the subtle jab, Tim is talking about me as a person that likes to present himself as a person of science (not that my degree in Ocean and Coastal Resources or my 10 years of being an actual scientist plays any part in that maybe being somewhat factual)... If you're going to dig your heels in Tim, at least call me by name sir. This is also the second time I have seen you utter the same gripe about a person of science and not taking the time to read and refute. I've already told you last year via PM that I don't have the luxury of free time that you do. I have a wife and kid and both our families live in town... So curling up with the newest reef research is not at the top of my priority list as I'm happy just to have time to feed my fish before I go wash bottles or do laundry. It is not out of lack of desire to read is the issue... It is the time constraint so I do the best I can. Honestly, you're the only reason I don't spend time on ARC anymore. I'm got tired of having a successful acropora dominated tank and trying to share advice that worked for me to achieve that tank get thrown back in my face by someone that just regurgitates articles they read and has never produced a beautiful acro-dominated tank that I've ever seen. I've seen your tank at your house... Stags (the easiest of acros) with burnt tips and STN at the base with glass so dirty I could hardly see them... And I've seen your body of work with your clients in person and on video. None of what I have seen I would consider maintained or created by a person I would consider an acro expert. Where's the Hawkins echinata you were going to grow in a tap water topoff system of yours? I saw 3 pictures of it and then it was never mentioned again. The disappointing part is you've seen my tank in person and was even amazed at how I was able to achieve the colors I do from the acros. I don't understand how you can refute the level of success I've had with them and my experience with them that you've seen with your own eyes. That my advice may actually may be helpful to those trying to achieve the same type of tank. I'm not running a softie tank here... So my advice is geared towards those trying to achieve the same style of tank that I run with full acros. That's fine if you don't agree with that for your type of tanks... But my advice was never geared for that type of system so I don't understand where you have a leg to stand on to counter my advice when I've never seen you run an acro-dominant tank? I don't sit around and tell people how to run tap water ATO tanks with no skimmers... I have no leg to stand on with those type of systems. I don't really appreciate the back handed jabs at me... Even when I had left the forum already. I don't know if my absence is why you were bolstered to do it again but just please stop and move on. You are behaving like you still have a chip on your shoulder. I'm not even around anymore. Regarding low phosphates... I keep mine at 0.03 ppm. This is what 0.03 ppm of phosphates looks like in my tank. I don't consider my corals starved and unhealthy. I'm not entrenched in old reefer dogma... I run that based on my experience with color and health in correlation with phosphate levels in my tank and found that the lower end pulls better colors for me and keeps my tank more stable while increasing growth. There are going to be anomalies with any rule but I stick with what I've seen in my own acro dominated systems the last 7 years I've been running them. If you're running a softie tank... Don't keep it that low... But that's not who I am trying to advise these days. They'd be better off listening to someone else's advice for those type of tanks. I haven't run one in 7 years so I'm a bad resource. I've said my peace. Feel free to say whatever you need to say to get it off your chest and let's just move on. I'd rather be spending time with my kid then thinking about this stuff... That's why I left in the first place Tim.
  25. 1 point
    Very nice. It will never be this clean again. Enjoy it while you can ...
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