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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Back in 2008 I decided I wanted to get back into the hobby. I wanted to try using LED's for lighting. At that time there were just a few commercially built units available. I decided to do a DIY LED system as an experiment. I had a 42 gallon hex tank that was not in use. I decided to use it. I figured it would be cheaper to use it than the 110 I have. To do this I decided to build a canopy to house the LED fixture. My wife had some requirements if I set the tank back up. She did not want to see any equipment hanging off the back of the tank. She did not want to see the water line or top of the tank. Also she did not want to see the sand or gravel against the side of the tank at the bottom. The photo below is what I came up with. I will go into the details of building this in future post. Since I am local I decided to add a build thread for this on this forum. The photo below is a recent photo of the tank. It has been up and running for about 3 years now.
  2. 4 points
    If you bring me all your supplies, I can build it for you (free of charge, call it a Christmas present; just pay it forward in whatever way you can). PM me if interested. PS. I build a 55g 8 years ago and it is still going strong. Mike
  3. 3 points
    My 4 year old son saw me attempting to figure out how to elegantly fit my new Turbo scrubber into the sump. His solution, utilizing some old toys.
  4. 3 points
    I fed Reef Roids to the tank about an hour after lights off and got the flashlight out to watch. Looked like I had some type of shrimp hatch as well. I think the tank at night is almost as interesting as during the day.
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
    Back Cover Continued Below is a photo of the finished back cover. The current fans are installed in these photos. These fans were modified to help withstand the exposure to water vapor and salt spray. I removed back cover a while back to get these photos. So it is a little dusty. Below is a view with the doors open. The inner door panels were not installed in this photo. Below is a top view. View from the back with doors open. View of the back doors closed. Below is a view from the bottom. Below is a view of the trim that overlaps the trim around the cabinet upper outer frame. Below is the inner door panels at various steps of construction. Below is the completed inner door panels with completed hinge covers. Below is the inner door panels and hinge covers installed.The dark spot on the back left below center is where the feet for the recirculation pump on thr biopellet reactor are against the back.
  7. 2 points
    We have some older models of Apex controllers that I want to offer ARC members at a huge discount. These are new in the box models 1- Apex Gold System 1- Apex System Lab Grade pH probe 2- Apex System Standard pH Probe 40% OFF List price.
  8. 2 points
    Stand Continued Below are some photos of the project assembled for testing. At this point nothing was glued yet. It was still bare pine. Everything was moved to the garage and the tank was filled with water and allowed to run for a month before dissassembly for final assembly. This gave me a chance to improve on any issues found during testing. The back cover and back cabinet were not finished at this point. Below are some photos of the stand during construction. The two outside PVC pipes are the conduit for the wires going from the front cabinet to the back cabinet. The smaller middle one is the return manifold. The return manifold was repositioned above the bracing between the two conduit pipes. It still clears the bottom of the tank and is a little more out of the way there. The top trim was not on the side panels at this point. In the photo below you can see the conduit going from the front cabinet to the back cabinet.
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Stand Continued The back panel is attached to the cabinet for the power bars and electronics. Below is a photo of parts to one of the sides of the cabinet. The other is the same except for the way the door mounts. Below is a photo of the parts for the partition that seperated the right and left side of the cabinet. The power bars will be mounted to the partition on each side. Below is a photo of the partition assembled. The notch on the lower left is for the fan mounted to the vack of the cabinet. The inserts are installed for mounting two power bars on each side of the partition. Below are the parts for the back of the cabinet with the exception to the acrylic panel. Below is a photo of the sides and back with the partition ready to be assembled. The acrylic is still clear here but is painted black on the inside now. At the top of the back is the vents for the electronics area of the cabinet. The white plates down below them on the acrylic panel are Keystone wall plates. They will hold 6 keystone adapters each. This is where the controller buss connects along with any non AC electrical connetions. There are two standard power connector below the keystone plates. Below the power connectors is the cooling fan for the cabinet. There are three holes on each side of the fan. Five of these have 1/4 tubing bulk heads installed. These are used for DI top off, fresh salt water into the system and salt water drain from the system. Those are the three on the left side. The two on the right are for CO2 and air. I do not use the CO2 yet. I use the air to pull air in from outside the house for the skimmer. There is one spare hole that is not in use. It is plugged for now. Below is a photo of the sides and partition mounted to the back of the cabinet. The back side panel is above this assembly. Below is a photo with the back side panel installed to the assembly. Below is the back panel and cabinet assembled with the exception of the pass through used to get the water lines from the back of the tank to sump area in the stand and bulkhead for the conduit from the front electronics cabinet. The parts on top are actually a part of the upper outer frame assembly. The doors for the cabinet were too narrow for a raised panel door so these just have a regular panel installed instead of a raised panel. Thes photos were taken during dissassembly after testing so this assembly was not complete. Below is a view from the sump side of the back panel. There will be a back cover that fits on top of the cabinet that will cover the back side of the tank.
  11. 2 points
    Stand Continued On to the bottom of the inner frame. The photo below shows the six pieces for the bottom. There is a cut all the way around the bottom. This matches the cut on the inner side of the lower inner frame. Once in place the top of the bottom will be the same height as the top of the lower inner frame. Below is the bottom view of the bottom assembled. Below is the top view of the assembled bottom. Below is a photo of the bottom in places in the lower inner frame. In the photo below are the parts to the front panel. This is where the modules will be mounted for the controller. There are inserts set at the proper position to mount the modules. I will get to the controller later on. Below is a photo of the assembled front panel. Below is a bottom view of the inner frame assembled and glued. The pocket holes have been plugged. Below is a view of the assembled inner frame front view. This shows the front side of the front panel. There is a cutout that will be the pass through for all the cables from the sump area. It is higher that the lower braces. This is in case the bottom fills with water it will overflow over the braces before entering the electronics area. The inserts for mounting the side panels can be seen on the post in this view. This a view from the top. The two cuts in each top section is to drain any spill back inside the inner frame assembly. There will be some trim glued around the top outer edge of the sections. The photo below shows the sump in place. Also the holes in top of the front panel are for conduit that will run from the front panel to the back cabinet. Below is a view from the top with the sump in place.
  12. 2 points
    Rack 1. My bad. I was at work so I posted fast and sloppy. Didn't want my boss to catch me in on ARC, again.
  13. 2 points
    That's awesome! I wish I was handy with woodworking like that, but I learned long ago to leave it to others ....
  14. 2 points
    Did you put all your angelfish in QT for a week to get that video??
  15. 2 points
    It's been a long time since a photo update. Here's a few I took today Wet Thumbs Tropical Punch Mille, WWC Red Polyp Clathrata, and WWC Black Widow Sold to me at Macna as Event Horizon Mille (I'm not 100% convinced) Back: Pretty in Pink, Walt Disney, RR Rainbow Blossom Front: Merlin's Staff, Orange Passion RMF Flavor Parade Pink Cadillac (from @olaggie01) JF Party Crasher Cyphastrea, F2M Holy Grail Micro, Rainbow Acan Pikachu! UC Strawberry Shortcake, RMF Diablo Mille, CB Malieficent (off to the left is GB Full Spectrum, and in the bottom left is CC Bahama Mama Mille) RMF Red Devil Nasuta Vivid Rainbow Delight Couple of torches Just some nice pieces RR Shazaam and TGC Northern Crush BC Aquaticman Reef Ready Grape Juice CSB Anemone CC Sleepy Hollows and JF Fruity Pebbles
  16. 1 point
    Velvet would be my suspicion if it went from OK to dead that quick. Always QT! As far as I know none of the LFS have any real quarantine procedures, and they all order from the same wholesalers, so no matter who you are buying from there is always chances for stuff to slip through. Yes, some of them may keep their tanks cleaner and therefore have happier/healthier acting fish, but underlying disease is always a possibility. Hopefully those two pull through if they aren't already dead. Small 10-20gal tank with a bubbler and a heater is all you really need to QT and keep everyone healthy. I made the mistake of setting up my QT as a 30gal, thinking more water volume is better...... not when you're dosing medicines by water volume.
  17. 1 point
    I'll just say it again - crazy woodworking skills!
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, there are a lot of angled cuts, but once you have your saw setup you can do all the cuts for all the like parts at one time. It took awhile to to this. I started on it in 2008 and added water for the final time 3 years ago. My saws are in the garage. It doesn't have heating and cooling so that limits the time I had to work on it here in Texas. That looks like the Kreg jig I have. In fact Lowes may have been where I got it.
  19. 1 point
    Instant Ocean 200g box in on Ebay for $36.95 and there is a 15% off coupon today, bringing the price to $31.45. Only works using the app.
  20. 1 point
    Ty's Green Velvet, maybe? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    The purple one is my Purple Martian and the other isn't named.
  22. 1 point
    Ty, I got one of each of these two frags. They're doing really great, thanks. Do they have names?
  23. 1 point
    Canopy Continued Below are photos of parts for the upper outer frame, Lower outer frame and lid. Directly below is the upper outer frame parts including bracket for lid hinges. Below is the lower outer frame parts. Below is the parts for the lid. The cutout for the fans was done the same way as the cutout on the inner barrier. To the right you can see the holes for the hinges. Also the outer edges are trimmed all the way around to match the trim inner side of the top outer frame which is trimmed. This is a bottom view of the parts. Below is a section for top outer frame. The ones for the lower outer frame is the same with inside trimed off. The stand uses the same outer frame sections also the only difference is how much fo the inner side is trimmed off. Also there is a pattern cut out of the section that matches the top or bottom of the side panels.
  24. 1 point
    Had to read that a couple times to get the full picture of what it was in my head, but I did. What a Neat idea! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    I often tell myself that "this week" I'm going to get more active on ARC again.... and this week passes on to the next. So I figured an update is better than nothing. The aquarium has been up and running for about 1 and a half years, but it does not look like it. I've had a crazy busy year with work and other stuff so the aquarium has definitely taken a back seat. Because of my lack of attention I've had ALL sorts of issues, ALK swings from 9 dkh all the way down to 6.33 dkh, NItrates went through the roof, really unmeasurable and all the fun that goes with all of that, algae etc. My remote fuge cracked on an inlet, it's been offline for a large number of months now, my external pump died... twice, but lasted long enough to provide some micro cracks on around the bulkhead I had to deal with, now I run an internal DC pump. Yeah, it's been fun, so as you can see the time I have had to spend on the tank has been more unplanned "Oh sh1t" time rather than getting it all tuned in, but I did not lose hope! Over the past few months I've made the time (yes made the time, for a low price, $$,$$$,$$$,$$$, I'll sell ya the receipt) and I have seen some very positive results. I still have improvements to make, but I feel like I am finally on the right path. I'll post a few pics, for the most part, the fish have all survived, even with the super high Nitrates, but only a few corals made it through. Zoa's did great, thrived actually, the leather also did great, most of the rest you see in the pics are newer adds to the system. I had a TON of aiptasia that a coral banded butterfly finally took to and totally wiped out, but then would not take to any other prepared foods and eventually died, now I have a good but of aiptasia back again. Some pics (taken from my phone, sorry they are not great)...
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