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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    As Thanksgiving 2019 quickly approaches, ARC has a lot to be thankful for. From our volunteer staff to our members, we couldn't ask for a better group of people. The only thing that we think could of that could make things better would be to increase the number of people we have here. To that end a few months ago I began talking to members and staff about how to help improve ARC. We received lots of feedback and ideas, but one of the major challenges seems to be how to attract members to a forum when most people interact more frequently with social media. There are several barriers to posting here, but the key ones we identified were convenience and cost. We're working to improve convenience. There are some technical challenges with our web host that have complicated Facebook and other social media integration. We're working to resolve those quickly. Tapatalk continues to be a challenge, especially with recent changes they've made to their terms of use and how they are addressing member's private information. I know a lot of our users rely on Tapatalk to stay in touch with the club, but I don't know how much longer we'll be able to continue to support their plugin. We'll have that discussion in a separate thread so that we can understand how important it really is to our users. The second barrier is the most obvious, cost. With the ability to post items for free on other platforms we have seen some traffic decreases here. We still believe that the sense of community and the ability to maintain history are key features that other services don't provide, but we have to address what it costs members to participate here. Because of the changes to the web host mentioned above we were able to cut the ongoing monthly server and storage costs. That will allow us to adjust down the cost of Premium Memberships going forward. To kick things off and show our thanks, however, we're offering a limited number of Thanksgiving 2019 Premium Memberships at $5. Share this with your friends, other clubs, online, wherever. The goal is to increase the size of our community here. We'll be addressing meetings and swaps shortly, we've heard you desire to have more. Several members have offered to help carry the load, being moderators or advocates in social media to help us attract attention. Several of them have been here all along and just continue to work quietly behind the scenes. Thanks to all those who have participated and offered to hep! So to the good stuff, here's a link to the discounted Thanksgiving Premium Memberships. Supply is limited so don't miss this chance! Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving from all of us at the Austin Reef Club!
  2. 6 points
    Finally got the new tank moved in and on the stand! Still need to position it, but progress is good.
  3. 5 points
    On to my water setup. Here it is as it stands today. I posted about my RODI system in another thread. Here's the water station. It's composed of two square 55gallon tanks. Each have input from the RODI in the fish room with a float valve and pressure sensor. There is a transfer pump inside the RODI tank, which is plumbed into the saltwater tank with a float valve to prevent overflow. There is a mixing pump inside the SW tank. fish So each tank will have a valve to fill buckets on the ground. The SW tank (right) has some additional goodies. The beige box is an automated ball valve with open/close sensors. With the valve open, the pump will turn on and fill the tank (or remote tanks) with SW. That line has not yet been plumbed to the sump. Here's the top of the water station. I perforated the top using either bulkheads or heyco fittings for cable pass through or tubing pass through. I had to split the transfer pump power cable and reattach with the same type or disconnect used on jebao pumps, as they can pass through the cable gland. I have a PM2 so i could hook up a breakout box, which I DIY'd to use RCA cables. You can also see the pressure switch, which closes when both float valves are closed. At some point I'll probably add in a heater, but I am short an outlet on the EB8, so I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do there since the heater usage will be so ephemeral with the setup. Inside the RODI tank. Transfer pump on the right. ATK PMUP on the left. Jebao pump for SW mixing This is the crappy job i did with RCA terminals lol.
  4. 3 points
    AWC Implemented! Finished up the water station/stand set up today. Tank Depot didn’t have a matching tank for my 65, so I opted for this 50. I think the 50 will be fine however, it does have a nice large lid on it so at least I can dump salt in without making a mess. Really hoping the water tank Nazis will not call me out for not having matching tanks. 😜 Everything is set up on the Apex for the automatic water change up stairs with the dirty water plumed into the adjacent sink drain, sooo nice! The Apex indeed is loud during the water change, so I will run it during the middle of the night.
  5. 3 points
    Moisture and temp transfer are my th9ughts
  6. 3 points
    Shake n' Bake! I’ve been up and running for a few days now and everything is looking good. I do think my tank is about to get a case of the uglies as I’m starting to see some weird colored stuff on the rocks, so wanted to snap a photo before that takes over! Sorry about the blue photo, I used to use an orange filter on my phone to mitigate the LED spectrum issues but the iPhone 11 is not having it with its multiple lenses, I’ll need to figure out something else. Going to start thinking about my AWC setup, is anybody else doing automatic water changes? Any pitfalls I need to be thinking about before I get going with this enhancement?
  7. 2 points
    Lighting ATI 8x80w 60" The original fixture i bought 2nd hand "had minor exterior cosmetic damage". What I found when I got it unboxed at home was pretty substantial damage to the reflectors. So that wasn't fun. Bulbs 2 Tropic T5 6500K 3 Blue Plus Purple Plus True Actinic Coral Plus Photo Period Right now I run 8 hours of blues a day, purely to get some algae and microbiology going as there aren't any coral in the tank yet. I run the whites for an hour a day. The heat is manageable with venting and the PAC set at 80 F. You can also see the suspension method. At some point I'd like to add an orphek LED bar, but there's really no need at this point because of the lack of coral. As is, it makes the room pretty blue.... Here are the three panels of screen tops I made with the BRS kit.
  8. 2 points
    Anyone interested in buying a large green toadstool. Its the one in the top left upper corner. I grew it from a frag the size of a quarter and now its 20-22 inches in diameter and needs a larger tank as im running out of room. Ive had it for 10 years and looking for someone who wants a large coral. Not someone who's going to frag it into 200 pieces. If interested give me an offer. I have no idea what its worth. I also have 8 babies that i need gone. There's multiple on each rock so i need to remove and rubber band each to their own rock. They should be attached and happy in 7 days. $40.00 each. Sizes range from 3-5" in diameter.
  9. 2 points
    I started tracking my phosphate levels as soon as I filled this tank late last week. I think it’s really interesting to watch my phosphate levels drop even after I’ve added my 5 fish and feed heavy frozen daily. You can’t see in my photos but I have a large miami hurricane chalice (~9”) as well as a smaller watermelon chalice (~4”) that are behind the rocks. These easy to keep coral are consuming the excess nutrients in my tank already, which is really good to see. I experienced this on my last tank and already on this larger set up. **These large LPS coral are already way more effective at controlling nutrients than any skimmer would be.** PO4 tests using Hanna Ultra Low Range PPB checker. 1. 11/1 PO4 .12PPM Tank filled with cycled rock 2. 11/3 PO4 .10PPM Sump filled and fish + coral added. Feeding started 3. 11/5 PO4 .03PPM Chalice are starting to regain color from being in small holding tank for several months 4. 11/8 PO4 .01PPM Time to start feeding more heavily
  10. 1 point
    On to my apex setup. Its a doozie.... I have two cabinets. Each cabinet houses an EB832 and associated equipment. My setup now is an Apex Brain unit powered over PoE (UPS backed up in my server rack) EB832-Left 1) T5 Blue 2) T5 Whites 3) T5 Fans 4) Powerstrip 5) Maxspect Gyre Power 6) Calcium Reactor Feed Pump 7) Calcium Reactor Mix Pump 8) Calcium Reactor Regulator 24vA - RO Feed Solenoid 24vB - RO Dump Solenoid EB832-Right 1) Skimmer 2) Heater 3) Power Strip 4) Frag Tank Heater 5) Frag Tank ATO 6) QT Power (air pump right now with UPS backup) 7) QT Power 8) Empty 24vA Empty 24vB Empty Fluid Monitor Module Switch 1 - Sump Hi Switch 2 - Sump Lo Switch 3 - Leak Switch 4 - Frag Hi 24v - ATO Pump (located in water station) 1Link 24v1- RODI Flow Solenoid 24v2 - WAV-Left 24v3 - WAV-Right PM2-1 Conductivity Display Tank Temp Probe Display Tank All switches unused PM2-2 Temp Probe Mixed Salt Water PM 2-2 Breakout Box Switch RO Full Pressure Switch Saltwater Distribution Valve Open Saltwater Distribution Valve Closed Remaining Switches Unused Neptune AFS EB4 (Water Change Station) 1) RO Transfer Pump (Mag 5) 2) SW Transfer Pump (Little Giant) 3) Transfer Valve 4) Mix Pump (DCP-3000) IOTA AI Hydra Maxspect ICV6 controls both Maxpsect 350 gyres I used raceways from monoprice to go from the channels, and then under the tank area to contain all of the probes and wires. To start in the middle, i use a PM2 to have an additional temp probe, and then I get away from some of the interference issues with the salinity probe. I boxed it off with one of these to keep it dry.
  11. 1 point
    I use dual smith gauges. 4 years on a previous tank. 2 years on current tank. The chrome will pit, if you splash salt water all over it, all the time, and fail to wipe it off. https://www.amazon.com/Gas-Regulator-100-Carbon-Dioxide/dp/B0036ZDVNO?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0036ZDVNO
  12. 1 point
    I have two industrial grade stainless steel dual stage regulators from Alan Le. I love them! The ones affinityaquatics is selling on ebay look nice. I have no experience with other regulators, but would not hesitate to go the same route if I did it again.
  13. 1 point
    This royal urchin didn't pay attention to how high it was climbing to release it's eggs into the water. https://youtu.be/FgSEgkCdm2g
  14. 1 point
    maybe its just so that you can get a little bit of gravity flow to siphon from the sump. if its on the floor you're destined for some kind of pumped removal.
  15. 1 point
    Haha yes, I have that feeling too that it needs to be up off the floor, but again I just can’t think of why when it’s concrete with nowhere for water to go but out the garage door. The one benefit I can think of for building a floor for the sump is it will be level while the garage floor is slightly sloped. It’s funny that there’s a pre conceived notion that a sump HAS to be elevated, but there isn’t a clear reason why. [emoji2369]
  16. 1 point
    I would put down some of that kitchen mat that you find in restaurants That way the floor will dry and mold will not grow under the sump
  17. 1 point
    In three years I’ve only ever had to mess with the first chamber. Never touched the second.
  18. 1 point
    I run a 6" geo single on my frag tank (70 gallons) and a 8"x6" geo dual on my display (180). It's funny but the Ph on my frag tank runs higher than my display even though I put the dual stage on to counteract Ph drops. Go figure. I've been very happy with both units. From my own experience I would say run the single if you are space limited and you will be fine.
  19. 1 point
    Thx. They do look nice. To be the constant critic, there are a few things I dont love about them. One, the top port hole is pretty small. I have to get creative with dumping salt in (i use a foldable cutting board to make a rigged funnel. Two, the tank bulges a bit when full, which makes the bottom piping angle downwards about 30 degrees. Three, they're not exactly easy to cheap/source. They sure do look nice though.....
  20. 1 point
    OMG!!! I was just at RCA and saw your tank. That thing is amazing!!! The pics of the stand don't convey the size of it very well.
  21. 1 point
    I used to run 1g daily awc on my 90g using a DOS...and only complaint was it was really loud. Really want to setup my new build with awc but feel like I'd have to find a different pump to use.
  22. 1 point
    TIME FOR A POST ON ROOM LAYOUT AND CONSTRUCTION. The fish room is the result of breaking down a common wall between a man cave tool storage in the garage and the utility room. I also moved the water heater out and added water supply lines and a drain line. Before - the wall on the right side is where the aquarium is now, which is a common wall with the living room. Here's the utility sink. You can also see the ethernet line box as well as the two 20A lines run into the under stand area. There were pre-existing circuits on both sides of the room that i still use from time to time for non-critical stuff. You can kind of see the dividing wall between the two rooms that was knocked down here. The door on the left is closed up so only one door exists to this room on the garage side, there is an opening to the house on the other side as well. After a completely botched job by our general contractor (never again...) here's the casing my father in law built for the exterior view of the tank.
  23. 1 point
    I think @Caravanshakahad posted some zoas for sale.
  24. 1 point
    This video shows has a closeup of the Fungia polyps that were all were all born in this system. A single anthocaulus was transplanted to a smallish limestone rock and placed in this system 8 or 9 years ago. 9 more have since have budded off from the original one. Development of new baby plate corals start immediately after it's older sibling drops off. In just a week or two the new polyp can be seen expanding. Depending on how much it's shaded from other polyps it can take from about a year to several years to grow to a point where it drops off. Polyps should not be forcibly broken off as it can kill the anthocaulus stopping any further polyp production. The anthocaulus initially may only be a couple millimeters or about 1/16" in diameter but will grow with each new polyp and can be about 12 mm or 1/2" in diameter. Larger Anthocauli can be gently broken off at the base and glued to a rock being very careful not to damage any of the tissue around the crown. https://youtu.be/dh_nLhj1QXc
  25. 1 point
    Photos from my recent diving and snorkeling trip in Hurghada, Egypt.