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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    135 Build/Setup Issues: This is a list of issues encountered during this build and how I responded: Plumbing: I re-plumbed a few questionable items before adding water to hopefully ensure no leaks. Unfortunately I ran into one leak with the manifold the was visible after adding water and only showed up with the pump at full speed. Having all the unions and valves helped in stopping water flow to enable the fix of this issue. You cant have enough unions! 🙂 Return Pump: Since I've invested so much in Neptune, I decided to go with their COR-15 pump for my return. I've since had some issues with it intermittently showing unavailable on the APEX screen. It doesn't turn off, but it is irritating. I update the code on it. If it comes up this way after a power up it takes a few power recycles to get it back. I could probably send it back to Neptune, but I've decided to go away from a smart pump and install another Varios 6 from Reef Octopus. I've never had any issues with those and that is what I have currently on my manifold so it is a nice backup. Note, the COR-15 will be up for sale at a discount shortly. It works obviously as its been running the tank for the past 4 months. Alkalinity Spike: I noticed a drop in PH overnight (larger than normal) and the PH stayed below 8 during the day so I thought I'd buffer it with Seachem Marine Buffer as it limits the PH rise to 8.3. However, as this did buffer up the PH, it also resulted in a large spike of my Alk from 9 to 13. I know, this is horrible. So, with the aid of my Trident, I turned off my Calcium reactor and let the Alk level come back down slowly to 9 which is where it is now. I will not be doing any PH buffering again. The good thing is my PH has stayed stable at around 8.1 to 8.3 since then. High Calcium Level: My Calcium level started high in the tank (a little over 500) and grew a bit and never came down. Alk was variable so I still had to feed it with the CALC reactor. So I did the same above, turned off CALC Reactor to let the CALC level go down slowly and manually fed my Alk daily with two-part. With the aid of the Trident it was easy to correct. With the exception of precipitation I haven't heard of any other negative issues with High Calc except it makes it harder to raise Alk. I have kept a higher Mag level which helped me keep the Alk where it needed to be during this issue. Flow: I kept seeing flow, flow, flow on all the SPS articles and how you cant have too much, this is NOT true. If you have a 36" cube, and have a 5000gph Gyre on one side of the tank and a 4500gph MP40 on the other side, both blowing directly across the reef in the middle, this is TOO much flow, even with them at half speed. Yes, I overdid the flow in this tank lol. Even with these at half speed it stripped the flesh on some SPS corals. I've since got them turned down to 20 and 30% respectively and note this was/is gyred flow, not full time on. Before you place a coral, make sure the flow in the location you plan on for that coral is not going to overwhelm it. With too high a flow it may not strip the flesh, but it could keep the polyps retracted which will cause the piece to starve to death over time. Nitrate/Phosphate: I have had some self induced issues here that I believe, with the above Alk spike, led to the RTN, white/algae covered tips, and death of some pieces. This was due to my lack of knowledge on these parameters. I was under the impression that you needed to keep these down to almost 0 to ensure reduced growth or stop the growth of "bad" algae's. I'm learning now that this will also negatively impact the immune systems of SPS corals and possibly kill them. Note: I also noticed that my LPS growth has slowed, but my Lonestar leather is growing like a weed (may be unrelated). That said, I'm bringing my No3/Po4 levels up from 0 and am hoping the RTN, white tips, and death will stop on the currently affected pieces and not start on the others. I'm guessing my manual weekly feeding of Reef Energy AB+ may have helped so that I didn't loose all my LPS, just a few pieces have been affected. I'm continuing the AB+ for SPS and spot feeding of Reef Roids on my LPS corals. Neptune Trident: This isn't an issue, just a rave review. I LOVE my trident! I wish I would have had this a long time ago. The ease of multiple tests a day, the accuracy, the reporting to understand and control trending,..... This thing is awesome and I am really in touch with my key parameters. This plus the APEX automation and monitoring has made reef keeping MUCH more easy of a task. I highly recommend the Trident as it allows me to maintain the stability of these parameters much more closely. If any of you have any questions about it please feel free to ask me. This is about it at the moment (I know, this is enough 🙂). I'm embarrassed to admit to some of these blunders, but I've learned a lot in this process and hope to have some beautiful SPS colonies in the future. Please feel free to provide comments (positive, negative, any...). Current levels as of today: ALK: 9.46, CALC: 360, MAG: 1533 PH: 8.13, Po4: 0.04ppm, No3: .5ppm Salinity: 1.027, Temp: 78.3 No3, Po4 were higher (10ppm, .07ppm), but my Chaeto has started growing in the fuge and I believe that brought them back down, so I turned off my Biopellet and GFO reactors to compensate. Hopefully my feeding levels will bring these back up. My intent was to only have the refugium, but had an initial Chaeto die off (no idea why), so I had to start the reactors to keep these params under control. The Chaeto is back to thick green growth again so I turned off my other reactors as they shouldn't be needed.
  2. 2 points
    I don't think I ever got into the Brute storage tanks I use for DI water, fresh salt water and salt mixing tank. I have three 20 gallon cans with dolly kits. To use them I had to modify the lid by drilling holes for the fill and despense hookups along with holes for the level sensors. In this case the sensors are float switches. There are two for each tank. A full sensor and a low level sensor. All the tanks are almost the same give or take a few holes in the lid. I will show some photos for the lid for the DI tank. Since everything is done to the lid if I need to switch out a tank all I need to do is remove the lid and place it on the other tank. Below is the parts used on the DI tank. I was originally using a different tank for DI so these were removed from the old tank. Below is a photo of the lid with holes drilled ready for instalation of the fittings Below is the bottom view of the lid. Below is a view with the float valve installed. This is for refilling the tank when it goes low level. The float valve is a backup for the full float switch. The backup to the valve is the leak detectors on the floor near the tanks. Below is the top view with the elbow installed in the float valve. Below is a view of the parts for the low level sensor. The gray tube is schedule 80 PVC pipe 1/4". One end has been tapped so the float switch can be installed. Below is the bulkhead fitting and the PVC splice and section of PVC pipe. I also used a o-ring on each side of the lid with these fittings. The black fitting is a probe holder that I got from Avast Marine. I got around a dozen of these at the time. The 1/4" gray PVC has a 1/2" outer diameter which is the same as most standard probes. Fittings are installed ready for float switch assembly. Below is the low level float switch installed from the top. Below is a view of the low level sensor installed in the lid from the bottom. The probe holder allows for adjustment of the height of the float switch if needed. Below is a view of the parts for the full sensor. They are the same as the low level sensor exept for the length of the PVC pipes used. Below is a view of the assemblies ready to install in the lid. Below is a view of the full sensor installed from top of the lid. Below is a view from the bottom of the lid with both sensors installed. Below is a view of the parts for one of the despense bulkheads. There are two. I have a backup ATO that is plumbed and ready for use. If for some reason I have an issue with the ATO I can remotely program this pump for use. Top view if the fittings installed. The backup pump uses a slightly larger tubing than the 1/4" tubing. It also requires a screen valve assembly at the end of the tubing. That is the reason for the reducers. Below is a bottom view of the backup ATO fittings installed. Below are the parts for the bulkhead fittings for the primary ATO pump. Below is a view of the fittings for the primary ATO installed from the top. Below is a bottom view of primary ATO fittings installed. Below is a photo of a RJ45 breakout adpter. I use two of these and a RJ45 cable to get the signals from the level sensors to the input ports of the controller modules used. In this case the ports are on one of the DP1 modules. Below is a view with the float switch wires connected to the breakout adapter. Below is a view with the input tubing installed ready for use. The other two tanks are done very similar to this one with just minor differences. All three tanks will fit under a workbench in the garage. They can be rolled out when needed and then rolled back under the bench out of the way.
  3. 1 point
    Got a free finger condom for working bristle worms out of rock, they're passing them out at your nearest polling location.
  4. 1 point
    its an objective that most of us never reach! Welcome.
  5. 1 point
    Hi All, I wanted to add a few more things about the cabinetry. Note, this is not reef specific, but more fit and finish of the overall build. Side Skins: The hardwood side skins each have neodymium magnets that make removal for maintenance very easy (pic below). I also added adjustable feet to the skins to add in adjustability of how they line up with the top, sides, floor, and to keep them off of the floor incase of a water spill. (pic below) Apex Stand Alone Electrical Cabinet: The hardwood exterior to the APEX cabinet is a 1 piece skin that is open on the right hand wall side (you cant see that) and just slides over the cabinet. I think it tuned out great and and tied the wood finish in with the tank skins. (pic below). Wood Finish: All hardwood pieces are stained to match my kitchen cabinets (including my handmade light fixture).
  6. 1 point
    Recently merged a couple of tanks into one and got a bunch of orange ricordea (green mouth) separated from a large rock I wasn't using. Most are glued to rubbles. Most rocks have 2-4 rics on them. I have a few singles that are not glued to anything. Asking $20/mouth. Take care.
  7. 1 point
    hey guys, had to remove some of my large Sherman rose bubble tips from my tank since they were too large and taking up way too much real estate. My loss is your gain! Feel free to ask any questions. All pictures in the acclimation box were just after the move so they were a bit stressed. The pictures of the nems in the display tank are the same nems up for sale. All were natural splits! Text 512-six96-180four for more details $160 local pick upWill consider any trade offers
  8. 1 point
    i like the use of ethernet jack here. very crafty.
  9. 1 point
    Hello everyone! I just joined the Austin Reef Club. I bought an established 60 gallon tank a few months ago and now just switched everything over to a 65 gallon drilled tank with a 20 gallon sump to make it easier to manage and larger water volume so there is less fluctuation. So far everything is going great! My parameters have been stable for the last month and I'm finally starting to add coral in. So far I have some pink tip octospawn, rose bubble tip anemone, green bubble tip anemone, some palys, candy canes, and starting a GSP wall for my background. Glad to of found the forums to learn more from all the experienced reefers!
  10. 1 point
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  12. 1 point
    Well its been a while since I posted anything here, but the tank is almost done and looking very good. I installed the skins on the stand and they are replicas of my cherry kitchen cabinets. I also added the granite for the 4" ledge. The homemade light fixture is also stained to match the kitchen cabinets, and I had a cover built for the electronics/controllers cabinet that is also stained to match the kitchen cabinets. All in all, it looks like a nice piece of furniture in my dining room. :-) I also added Neptune lunar lighting in the reef light and the red LED's electronics/controllers cabinet. I attached pics with just the Kessil's blues on which I run for the last hour of the cycle and pics with all lights (including the ATI T5's). Let me know what you think....
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